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2017 Beta 250RR first ride report... tough day

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Well i got the bike out for the first time and it didn't go exactly as planned or as i hoped.  Sag was set to 100mm, put in the power valve a full turn(didn't want to rip my arms off), pressured the stock tires down to 11 front / 8 rear and installed the gnarly pipe.  First off, the stock Beta tires are a joke for off-road.  I blew the rear out after 1 hour of riding in the dirt.. Hardly any rock riding.  The compound is extremely hard and i didn't immediately know they were both DOT.  Considering its a hard enduro / race bike, i was surprised by this.  Both tires won't see another ride.. IRC M5b and Bridgestone M59 will soon be ordered.

Second thing i didn't like was the gearing.  13/49 is just too tall for me.  I like to lug the bike and found that i couldn't pull 3rd very confidently in flat single track.  I ended up putting the power valve back out a turn and this helped a little (bringing the power back into the lower R's) but i still wasn't fully convinced.  My FX with 13/52 pulls better down low.  I will be bumping up to a 51 on the rear for the beta.  A question i have is if any other bike makes rear sprocket fit the Beta?  I have read some say that the Honda CRF does, but I'm looking for confirmation.  The only 2 brands i see for Beta are quite expensive.  Any info on this would be appreciated.

And finally, the thing that killed me today was the clutch.  It engages so quick its almost impossible to ride without stalling.  I literally stalled the bike maybe 50 times today.  Road my buddies 17 KTM 300 xc last week and didn't stall once on the trails.  You have to have the clutch pulled all the way to the bar or it will stall when coasting / blipping through tight stuff.  I can't one finger the clutch because if i pull the lever all the way into my middle finger against the bar, its still not pulled in enough to let it idle without stalling.  Only way to successfully ride it was to use your whole hand to pull the lever all the way to the bar (and modulate from there), or constantly blip the gas to keep the R's up and prevent them from dropping down to idle.    This got very tiring very quick.  I have never experienced this with any other 4 stroke or 2 stroke.  We tried adjusting the lever all the way out, but it already was, and we moved the perch towards the center of the bar so i was using my pointer finger near the end of the lever.  It still was extremely hard to ride without stalling.  It literally would cough so quick and die.  The other thing i noticed is when i did modulate, it would go from engaged to disengaged so fast you couldn't slip the clutch that well.  It was maybe a half and inch at most of room to modulate.  I think i swore out loud maybe 5 times today haha.  I hated the way the clutch worked in the single track.  

That said, the motor it self seemed smooth and strong once you got going.  Jetting seemed good, it sounded super crisp and the suspension felt pretty good for my weight.. Forks were a touch harsh at first but I'm guessing they need a little break in.  

So all in all it was a rough day and i just didn't really enjoy the bike that much.  Yes, it turns easier than the FX in the tight stuff and is more confidence inspiring here because of the weight, but that is it.  It was almost impossible to keep running in these situations because of the clutch engagement. 

My plan is to order the tires, a 51 rear sprocket and pray to the gods that i can get this clutch to engage later in the lever release.  And make the clutch release not so short and quick.  If anyone has any info on other bike brands rear sprockets fitting the Beta, let me know.  More importantly, if anyone has any info regarding my clutch issue PLEASE help :) !! 

Look forward to hearing what you guys think..   

Edited by NW_drZ

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The stalling issue is weird, the Beta stroke (300 anyway) is renowned for not stalling. Have you set the float and jetting, the float is commonly way out of adjustment from the factory.

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The stalling issue is weird, the Beta stroke (300 anyway) is renowned for not stalling. Have you set the float and jetting, the float is commonly way out of adjustment from the factory.


Haven't touched either.. My dealer mentioned that the current jetting should be dialed for sea level. As mentioned, the motor felt good under load, it was the clutch engagement that killed me and gave me a hard time keeping it running.

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Sorry to hear you had a rough first ride. Don't feel bad about the tires the ktms come with Dunlop  at81s. I changed my tires before i ever road the bike. If your stalling that bike something is not right. 

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The clutch thing has to be air in the line or something else wrong...my engagement on my 300 has always been flawless. So much so, that I actually ride it better than an auto-clutch.

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My four stroke clutch had air in the line. Actually, it had air behind the upper banjo bolt.

I bled it using the bottome bleeder, then bled it again using the top banjo as a bleeder. It was better.

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If you want any help with the bike im free next weekend. 

 

Don I may take you up on that, I really want to get this thing dialed. Im assuming bleeding the clutch is the same process as the brakes?

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Just now, NW_drZ said:

 

Don I may take you up on that, I really want to get this thing dialed. Im assuming bleeding the clutch is the same process as the brakes?

If its the line then yes just like brakes. If there is air in the slave cylinder then that takes a different method.  Try the line first, if that doesn't fix it we will go from there. Make sure you have the proper fluid first. 

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My four stroke clutch had air in the line. Actually, it had air behind the upper banjo bolt.
I bled it using the bottome bleeder, then bled it again using the top banjo as a bleeder. It was better.


Krannie where you experiencing similar symptoms before you bleed the clutch line?
There's a knob on the clutch lever for adjusting the engagement point

As I mentioned in the first post, the clutch lever was adjusted all the way out from the bar.
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As mentioned by others, something is off if the clutch has inconsistent or grabby engagement. I would say the clutch is a strong point on these bikes. I think 8psi is a bit low for the stock tire and thin tube that comes on the bike

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I've ran mine in and the first 2/3 hours the motor felt quite tight and would stall sometimes,at 7 hours it has loosened up and it's no problem in third,how many hours have you do Everything? And a crf rear does fit,I have fitted a 48 to my 300

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7 hours ago, afm774 said:

 I think 8psi is a bit low for the stock tire and thin tube that comes on the bike

^^^ that's likely why your rear tire went flat, you pinched the tube.  Pilot error, IMO.

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Start with bleeding the clutch, then play with the carb. Maybe the jetting is off just enough to cause it to stall as soon as there is any clutch drag.

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Clutch on these Beta's have always been hit and miss troublesome. Some brands you can push the rod from the pack side forcing air out of the slave cylinder and out the bleeder. Simple but time consuming. What does the dealer say? More they know the more Beta looks at it.

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^^^ that's likely why your rear tire went flat, you pinched the tube.  Pilot error, IMO.

 

Ran 8psi on the same trails for 200 hours on my FX, never one flat. I assumed the Beta had heavy duty tubes though. I may be mistaken on that.

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Didn't you purchase this from Frank's? From what I've heard he is a great dealer and I would give him a call with your concerns cause something is not right. I moved from a 09 YZ 250 2T to the Beta and used to run 14/50 on the YZ and mentioned I might order my Beta with a 50 tooth rear, one of the members told me to ride it before changing - glad he gave me that advice as the Beta pulls so well and my riding is mainly from around 3,000 to 7,000 so not pulling 3rd on flat single does not seem right. I have not messed with my power valve but did install a map switch as the 300 comes on the soft map and I wanted a little more mid range snap. No problems with the clutch, just like Sierra alluded to - I have not felt a need to install a Rekluse even tho I ran them on my last 3 YZ's. 

By the way I'm not some young buck that needs to be wound out all the time, celebrated 3/4 of a century in January.
 

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My apologies, I just noticed that you have a 250 and I'm rambling on about a 300. I believe the 250 comes set-up on the hot map when delivered and if you install the map switch it would help in low rpm situations and pull a little better. JMO

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