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YZ250 2017 Enduro/XC mods

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Hi all, I just bought a YZ250 2017 and Im starting the process of modifying it for my needs. I ride mostly fast closed curcuit Enduro racing(GNCC style) and some Motocross.

I havent tested it yet but I´m quite sure that some mods will be needed.

I´ve got the suspension covered, will get springs for my weight and revalve it myself.

But what your recommendations for:

Skid plates and protection?
Fly wheel weight vs. Rekluse 3.0?
Over sized tank, 9-10L?
Tall seat for my 190cm?

Any other ideas?

 

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The GYTR 8.4oz FWW makes a big difference. I have it on my 2015 and it took that quick response out. Not luke making it loose power but putting the rear tire down I to the dirt.
Before the FWW it felt as if the bike was riding on top of the dirt. With the weight it feels as if the bike is down its the dirt.
You wot be disappointed!

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I also recommend the GYTR 8.4oz flywheel. It still has plenty of power but takes the edge off the snap. It feels like the bike is driving forward better instead of fighting for grip. Also seems it  makes the rear of the bike kick less side to side. It gave more confidence in corners and rough chop. Probably the only downside is that in situations where you are in more wide open parts of the trail/track you'll need to be more attentive with the clutch or gear selection. The bike needs just a bit more clutch to get on the pipe. It took me 30min of ride to time to figure it out and adapt, but it was absolutely worth it. The bike didn't tire me out as quickly either.

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Ok, the fww is in the list then. So there is no need for the rekluse for the 250?


I would ride the bike first. I thought I would need go mod mine a bit after riding it down the road after getting it home from the dealer. Then I took it for a ride in the woods and have not been compelled to change thing. I rejected to the same specs I had in my 2005 yz250, set my sag and installed the normal guards and have been tickled pink ever since. I am impressed with how well the bike works bone stock.
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5 hours ago, snoogans said:

Ok, the fww is in the list then. So there is no need for the rekluse for the 250?

If you are riding "fast closed circuit" stuff, I would lean towards no but only you would know for sure. I have the core 3.0 and still use my lever. The only time my Rekluse saves me is when I'm in tight nasty stuff and I'm tired. Maybe ride without it first then see if you "need" it???

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In my opinion (and 6 years on a YZ250), the Rekluse is not needed, and the fww will keep you from stalling. For the protective stuff, there are plenty out there, almost all good stuff

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6 hours ago, snoogans said:

Ok, the fww is in the list then. So there is no need for the rekluse for the 250?

I don't know if any bike "needs" a Recluse. It is more a matter of what you like personally. 

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4 hours ago, Woodzi said:

I don't know if any bike "needs" a Recluse. It is more a matter of what you like personally. 

And faster lap times ,  if your racing . My daughter used too hate them ,  but is faster with one . 

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Any particular reason to go with the GYTR? Is 8.4oz the sweet spot? I was thinking 11oz myself, it sure needs it imo. Way too snappy stock on any tight/challenging stuff.

The gytr unit replaces the stick stator, and does not bolt onto the existing stator. Much more compact and won't loosen up.

Even though it says 8.4, it acts heavier, more like a 10 oz.

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I guess nobody "needs" a Rekluse clutch. They are sort of a love it or hate kind of thing.

I don't think you can make an educated decision about them, until you spend some time riding with one and learn to use it to your advantage. Not just for stalling.

Once I rode with one I won't go back.

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I have a 11oz steahly flywheel weight on my 06, the motors stock otherwise.

For me its all the motor mods I need, stock it spun too easy with the weight it hooks up a ton better, its also harder to stall but didn't stall real easy stock.

I had a recluse in another bike a few years ago, I'd skip the flywheel weight if I had one, its not needed with the auto clutch which softens the hit and makes it hook up better at lowish revs too.

I have a TMD skid plate, moose rad guards and enduro engineering bark busters, these all fit and work well but so do lots of other brands. I'd get whichever guards you can get the easiest in Sweden.

I have a acrebis tank but the ims and clarke ones are alright too, just different. They're all about 12-13 liters not 10 tho.

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Ok guys, thanks for all the tips. Rode the bike once now in stock form, just changed springs for my weight. Felt pretty ok, but the step from the KTM500 is a big one. But I´ve ridden 2-strokes and been really happy with them in the past.

Ive ordered a

- Tall/hard/ribbed GUTS foam/cover
- GYTR FWW
- "X" power valve spring
- Enduro Engineering skid plate

Hopefully they will show up before the weekend.

The fork felt a bit harsh, but a revalve will sort that out.

 

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On 10 May, 2017 at 8:10 PM, Ron W said:

I guess nobody "needs" a Rekluse clutch. They are sort of a love it or hate kind of thing.

I don't think you can make an educated decision about them, until you spend some time riding with one and learn to use it to your advantage. Not just for stalling.

Once I rode with one I won't go back.

I am not all that experienced, but I think a main benefit of a Rekluse is left handed rear braking . I think as on a mountain bike, you get more control in tight stuff with hand control, as you are always ready and in the right position. I have done 5 days with a Rekluse on KTMS and Huskys. I thought it was great in the tight stuff. 

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14 hours ago, snoogans said:

Ok guys, thanks for all the tips. Rode the bike once now in stock form, just changed springs for my weight. Felt pretty ok, but the step from the KTM500 is a big one. But I´ve ridden 2-strokes and been really happy with them in the past.

Ive ordered a

- Tall/hard/ribbed GUTS foam/cover
- GYTR FWW
- "X" power valve spring
- Enduro Engineering skid plate

Hopefully they will show up before the weekend.

The fork felt a bit harsh, but a revalve will sort that out.

 

the big difference in the X and the stock YZ motocrosser is the porting, cdi, and powervalve spring/washer. If you want X like chug, youll need to get the jug, or your jug milled like the X.

Personally for what you are describing (GNCC - which is not slow single track) , the motocrosser YZ250 should be fine as long as your on the pipe. Revalve suspension, spring for weight, fly wheel weight for traction. 

Get a jetting kit, or jets and needles as the stockers are garbage.

Get a skidplate, I run the EE skidplate and its great. Fits well, great tough hardware, and now they have a linkage guard you can add on to it.

Radguards, radguards, radguards. I can't stress enough how these are worth their weight in gold. I have the bulletproof designs, they look dope, fit well and are well.....bulletproof.

18" rear wheel is a great option for additional tires, more for what you are riding, and the extra sidewall for rim protection and tube protection.

The stock tank is small, but if you are riding for shorter periods, extra fuel is extra weight. Closed course has a pitt/gas stop. You choose.

I would stay away from pipes and silencers, and any mods for "mo powa" until you get hours on the bike.

Then go buy gas and tires......and more gas......and more tires.....and more gas......and more tires.

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