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Chain loosening

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First time I put it on, got back and chain was loose. Readjusted it. Second time I went out came back and chain was really loose again. Tire is on ther tight and the chain had the proper tension, so why is it loose again. Again, it was not tight and not too loose when I went out.
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If it's non o-ring chain that is normal. You will get some break in stretch and wear. A non o-ring chain may only last 20-40 hours of use depending on the bike.   If it is an o-ring chain let me know what brand it is so I never buy one.

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If it's non o-ring chain that is normal. You will get some break in stretch and wear. A non o-ring chain may only last 20-40 hours of use depending on the bike.   If it is an o-ring chain let me know what brand it is so I never buy one.
its a non-o ring. Thanks I guess I'll buy a o-ring chain next time.

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I've found that the wear rate of chains is inversely proportional to what they cost. Yes, me the notorious cheapskate, will put a Regina chain on my son's pit bike as soon as the stocker is worn out.

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I've found that the wear rate of chains is inversely proportional to what they cost. Yes, me the notorious cheapskate, will put a Regina chain on my son's pit bike as soon as the stocker is worn out.

It is a sun//tar chain and was relatively expensive, but definitely not the best

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This may be a dumb question, but you are turning the adjuster screws out and tightening the locknuts, not just pulling the axle back, right?

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This may be a dumb question, but you are turning the adjuster screws out and tightening the locknuts, not just pulling the axle back, right?

Ya

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4 hours ago, cjjeepercreeper said:

I've had the same DID non oring chain on my bike since last spring.  I've had to adjust it twice.  That's it.

How many hours and what conditions? Saying your non-oring chain has gone a year with 2 adjustments means nothing without knowing the hours you ride.  I have a couple friends that have only done a couple short rides in the last year. I doubt they even checked their chain. Weren't you out with an injury last year?

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O-ring is the only way to go, I get 130+ hours out of the $40 ones

I practice technical enduro; mostly not even riding on trails. I read that it gives it a little less power. Not sure if this is true. Since I have the yz125 I try to get every little thing to get some low end mid range power. Not sure if it will take some of this away.

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1 hour ago, wielywilly-g said:

How many hours and what conditions? Saying your non-oring chain has gone a year with 2 adjustments means nothing without knowing the hours you ride.  I have a couple friends that have only done a couple short rides in the last year. I doubt they even checked their chain. Weren't you out with an injury last year?

I was out from 11/15 to 4/16.  I ride 2-3 times per week, no less than an hour, often a whole lot more.  Mostly high desert stuff with a couple trips to the San Juans in Rico/Dolores and Mancos.  I have no idea how many hours, but its a bunch.  But, then again, I keep the chain lubed and clean, lube it before every ride and clean it with kerosene after about 3 rides.  The only o-ring chains I've ever had have been OEM, after that it's regular chains. 

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4 hours ago, S-L-C said:


I practice technical enduro; mostly not even riding on trails. I read that it gives it a little less power. Not sure if this is true. Since I have the yz125 I try to get every little thing to get some low end mid range power. Not sure if it will take some of this away.

Bigger issue is the clearance.  O-ring chains are wider, and can rub the cases.  I had this issue on an 02 YZ 125.  I always ran non o-ring chains on my 125's and 150, just buy a decent one, and replace it annually.  

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4 hours ago, S-L-C said:


I practice technical enduro; mostly not even riding on trails. I read that it gives it a little less power. Not sure if this is true. Since I have the yz125 I try to get every little thing to get some low end mid range power. Not sure if it will take some of this away.

I wouldn't worry about friction, its not an issue once the chain has warmed up, also if width is a problem you can get narrower o ring chains, often x-ring or z-ring are narrower as well.

On a side note my chain maintenance consists of spraying it down with WD-40 every couple months and replacing everything as a set when its due, that's it.  All on a big bore two stroke that sees a little bit of everything terrain wise

to me an the extra $15 for an o ring is worth the cost just in not having to adjust hardly ever, and once you factor in all the time wasted to keep a non oring maintained its a really easy choice.

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Here's my 2 cents on this on my CFR

I run a non o ring and replace both sprockets and chain at the same time. Currently I'm using a Renthal drive train But I replaced the front sprocket after a few rides with a Sunline one cus the Renthal front teeth started to bend. Some what weird IMO cus not an issue with the back.

As far as my chain goes, it might have stretched a BIT after the first ride but nothing like in the OP's picture.

Personally I clean with Maxima Chain Cleaner (let soak for a beer and use an electric pressure washer), then dry with a rag and use MPPL to displace excess water, then Chain Guard before every ride.

To the OP - out if interest, before the first ride with the bike on the ground did you have about 2 or 3 fingers of slack behind the top glide to start will?

Then looking at your pics it looks like the blocks are almost as far as they should go. Did you put the chain on recently and my be have one too many links in the chain?

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