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91' XR 250L cutting out / stalling

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Have had the bike 2 months or so, and have been waiting for the weather to come around..
Been out 3-4 times with no issues, until last night on my way into work.
 
Pulled up to a stop light and the bike cut out ?? Kicked it over and she fired right back up..
On my way home the next morning same stop light bike cut out again, but I couldn't get it fired back up right away!??
 
It didn't seem or feel like a fuel issue. No hesitation, or starving of fuel .. just cut out !??
 
Any ideas??20170322_145637.jpg.16425c0cbab225d6e593ef788a340630.jpg


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Quick thought..... Could I be hitting the side/kick stand and it cutting off the bike??

It doesn't explain why It was hard to restart the 2nd time??
Other than avoiding that intersection
Any other areas I should look at??

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If you have safety cutout switches on the kickstand and clutch lever, check those and any related wiring.

Make sure your gas cap is venting properly. Can't tell from the picture but looks like you have one of those stubby vent valves on it. Those things are notorious for not letting the tank breathe/vent properly. Next time the bike dies on you, immediately remove the gas cap, see if you get a "whoosh" of air.

Edited by Trailryder42
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Not sure if this is relevant or not but the temperature was 0 Celsius or 32 Fahrenheit with frost in the morning during my ride home.

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If you have safety cutout switches on the kickstand and clutch lever, check those and any related wiring.
Make sure your gas cap is venting properly. Can't tell from the picture but looks like you have one of those stubby vent valves on it. Those things are notorious for not letting the tank breathe/vent properly. Next time the bike dies on you, immediately remove the gas cap, see if you get a "whoosh" of air.


I will have a look at the Saftey Cutouts.
Would a Venting issue on the Gas Tk shut the bike down like what happen to me ?? Interesting!! I will definitely look at that as well..

ThX for the info!

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5 hours ago, redrider736 said:

 


I will have a look at the Saftey Cutouts.
Would a Venting issue on the Gas Tk shut the bike down like what happen to me ?? Interesting!! I will definitely look at that as well..

ThX for the info!

When the gas tank can't vent, as the carb draws fuel from the tank, a vacuum is formed in the tank because the tank can't equalize pressure as fuel is used. When the vacuum in the tank overcomes head pressure/gravity feed, the carb starves. When the bike sits for a bit, the vacuum in the tank bleeds off a bit, fuel can flow again and the engine runs for a while until it happens again.

You can also get an over pressurization condition due to heat. When the tank can't vent, pressure builds and it can become enough that it forces fuel past the carb inlet needle valve even tho the float is set correctly and closing it as it should, thus overfilling the float bowl and causing a rich condition.

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The vent tube comes out of the stock gas cap, if that locking cap isn't vented then I would get rid of it and get yourself a stock cap

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I am assuming it's the OEM stock locking cap??? It shares the same key as the ignition.

I can't be the only guy out there to have this Cap?? Are there known issues with Venting with this Bike ??

 

 

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That is the OEM stock gas cap mine looks just like it and mine works just fine.  I have had my bike for about 12 years. My bike ran pretty good when I got it and went down hill since.  I had a flat tire about 4 years ago and it sat for over a year. I decided that it was going to run or I was going to get rid of it. It was sputtering a lot, It was had to start.  It didn't idle very well.  At the same time my boat motor was acting the same way, and it was cutting out "quitting" for no reason. That was when I learned about ethanol. I got all the old gas out of my boat's my ATV's the first. Then I drained the gas in the 250L and put new no ethanol gas in it. I was already using staybil so I kept using that.  I pulled the plug and replaced it. The first tank was still not running well. After the second tank of no ethanol premium it was doing better. By the 4th tank the bike was 1000 times better. I called it the pure gas over haul. After that I put new tires on it and I have enjoyed that bike more in the last couple years than all the years I have owned it. 

If you have been using ethanol I would look at that first. When Mine was acting up and motor cutting out it didn't just sputter and sputter then die. It was like the switch was turned off. Speaking of that, if your not using ethanol I would look at the kill switch on the handle bars. 

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The stock locking gas cap still has a venting feature to it. It's usually a disk type rubber valve inside the cap. I suggest you take the cap apart and give its innards a good cleaning to rule out it not venting as the problem. Had to do that on the locking cap of my KLR. 

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Great bike, love mine. Easy things first.  To check vent Run hose from petcock to gas can, see if fuel empties from tank nonstop.  On off switch, I took mine apart, cleaned contacts with acid, greased and put back together.  Resistor in spark plug cap, replaced with SS bolt cut to length.  Side stand switch, permanently bypassed by connecting the two wires together, removed switch.

Plenty of people running ethanol gas, fine for daily driver, spoils gas and begins gumming up carb when bike's not ridden for three or four weeks. 

You might consider lowering your chain guide and moving it forward with the big rear sprocket.post-334269-0-90432200-1368998547_thumb.jpgpost-334269-0-84464000-1396057617_thumb.jpg

You can also run a 15t on the front. 46t shown.

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WoW great info.. Thanks all..

I will pick away at all the suggestions...
Pull apart & clean OEM cap, clean & greese both Trun and Ignition boxs, and deal will the side stand safety cutout.

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You might consider lowering your chain guide and moving it forward with the big rear sprocket.post-334269-0-90432200-1368998547_thumb.jpgpost-334269-0-84464000-1396057617_thumb.jpg
You can also run a 15t on the front. 46t shown.


What will moving forward the chain guide do??

And will going to a 15T front & 46T rear sprockets give me more "Top End" ??
Finding the 1st through 3rd gears to be really short and not the greatest for city commuting..

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14 minutes ago, redrider736 said:

 


What will moving forward the chain guide do??

And will going to a 15T front & 46T rear sprockets give me more "Top End" ??
Finding the 1st through 3rd gears to be really short and not the greatest for city commuting..

 

Lowering it and moving it forward to match bigger sprocket will make the chain guide last.

15/46 is very close to the stock 13/40 street gearing.  I change sprocket's 15/14/13/12 during ride. 12t is hard on chain though.

Oh, I see, that's the Idaho bike wearing out the chain guide.

 

.

Edited by Baja Rambler

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Just checked what is currently on mine now..

13 Front and 40 Rear..

What dose this tell me? What should I change too for a more city commuting app??

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1 hour ago, redrider736 said:

 


What will moving forward the chain guide do??

And will going to a 15T front & 46T rear sprockets give me more "Top End" ??
Finding the 1st through 3rd gears to be really short and not the greatest for city commuting..

 

13/40 is good for street but it is a dirt bike.  You could try a 14 on front or 38 on rear, also shifting from first to third to fifth.  It's only a 250 that's why it has six gears.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Baja Rambler said:

13/40 is good for street but it is a dirt bike.  You could try a 14 on front or 38 on rear, also shifting from first to third to fifth.  It's only a 250 that's why it has six gears.

 

 

I am asking it to do more "Road" use than its meant for ... Might try the 14T Front with the 40T Stock Rear and see what that dose...

Thanks for a all the helpful advice.. I will post a update in a bit !

Cheers

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