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Ok so I wanted to check out my sparkpkug while my tank was off and it was fine but I shined my light down the hole to check it out and it seemed dirty at the very bottom. Would could cause this? Is it normal the plug didn't have any oil or nothing on it. The other problem is when I ride my bike for atleast 5 or 10 min after the first ride of the day it will die with the choke off it only runs with the choke on do i need to clean the Carb? 

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Where was it dirty? The plug hole or in the cylinder because dirt can get into the plug hole from just normal riding and you just need to clean it out. However the dirty look inside the cylinder is just carbon build up on the piston. This is normal engine build up and as long as it looks black and not brown like dirt then your fine. As for the choke you maybe riding it with the choke on. This can make a hot bike die. Just make sure its on when you believe it to be on. But if that's not it I'm not sure. But a good carb clean on an 08 wouldn't hurt. 

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When you say it was dirty at the bottom, you mean the recessed hole the spark plug resides in?  If so, dirt will accumulate over time in that area, and is normal.  You can blow it out with an air gun, but leave the spark plug in place to do so, so as not to let dirt fall into the cylinder.  Make sure the the drain hole at the bottom of the spark plug recess is clean too, so water can drain if it should get in their. 

In reference to it not running unless the choke is on, debris in one of the carburetor fuel circuits is certainly possible.  Maybe do a visual around the carburetor intake boot (between carb and head), and make sure the clamps are tight, boot is not cracked or split, and that the carburetor is fully pushed into the boot.  If you suspect the carburetor to be a problem, sometimes you can unscrew the air/fuel mixture screw, shoot a few shoots of carburetor cleaner into the hole, and reinstall your fuel/air screw.  Be careful though, the screw will have a spring, washer, and oring around the tip of it.  Make sure you don't loose them, and that they go back on the screw in the correct order.

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Yea I took out the spark plug and at the very bottom I see a little dirt but it seems impossible to clean..and im sure if its right there where I can see then is it like that on the whole topend? But yea so I took the carb off and cleaned it and all the jets and passages put it back on and it leaked gas instantly from fuel inlet joint. Took that off and inspected it and the orings were ccompletely shot so I ordered the new part hoping that is the only cause of gas leaking from the inlet joint. The boots were fine on both side Im having a hard time with the bike BC the guy I bought it from  dont answer the phone no more and i dont really have any friends into it and i definatly dont want to pay shop prices

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Yea so when I rode it even after ten or fifteen min and push the choke back in the bike will stall... I had a buyer come look at it and we started it up and let it warm up a little and went to pushchoke back in and boom dies so I'm hoping g its just a simple clogged jet problem and not something more serious

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The pilot jet circuit is dirty. Pull the carb off and clean it up. If it has been sitting for a while clean up the petcock valve and filter and also drain the tank and put fresh fuel in it. It will run nice and smooth after you do that

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12 hours ago, Tygar9058 said:

Yea I took out the spark plug and at the very bottom I see a little dirt but it seems impossible to clean..and im sure if its right there where I can see then is it like that on the whole topend? But yea so I took the carb off and cleaned it and all the jets and passages put it back on and it leaked gas instantly from fuel inlet joint. Took that off and inspected it and the orings were ccompletely shot so I ordered the new part hoping that is the only cause of gas leaking from the inlet joint. The boots were fine on both side Im having a hard time with the bike BC the guy I bought it from  dont answer the phone no more and i dont really have any friends into it and i definatly dont want to pay shop prices

The gas running out one of the small hoses, is likely your float level adjustment is too high, or the rubber tip, on the needle part of the needle and seat, may be damaged.

If you have the experience, you can adjust you float level visually without using a float level gauge.

Basically, as you move the float slowly upwards in what would shut off the fuel, you want the top of the float parallel with the bottom of the carburetor at the same time the needle is shutting off the fuel.  I just blow air through the fuel inlet nipple on the carburetor with my mouth, and begin to raise the float.  The second the air stops flowing, I visually make sure the top of the float as mentioned, is parallel with the bottom of the carburetor. 

This works well in most needle and seat situations, but there can be times you may have to adjust the float height by bending the float tab that the needle rests against, or add shims/washers to the seat that screws into the carburetor.

It's an acquired taste, kind of like getting the pilot, metering rod and main, to all flow flawlessly throughout the rpm range.

Oh, the dirt in the recess where the spark plug resides, can be removed with an air gun.  Leave the spark plug in when you do this.  The when you do remove spark plug, blow air one more time to remove what dirt was disturbed when you removed the plug.

Edited by WALKINGWOUNDED

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The gas was leaking from the fuel Inlet joint which I replaced and that stopped the leak but the bike was still idling high and would not run with choke off.. I think there may also be a small leak on the other side of the carb I couldn't Tell exactly where but maybe around the accelerator pump assembly or wwhatever that part is called I just am not in the mood to take it back off right now... the bike started right up second kick! after sitting more than two weeks or so, so atleast that put a smile on my face before it would take me a few tries but I gapped the plug to spec and I think that was the trick

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The choke may be masking the fact that the idle rpm is simply set to low.

When the choke is off, can you slightly hold the throttle and keep the engine at, or near idle rpm, or do you have to keep it revved high?

Also, your bike has a hot start system.  All it does when you pull the hot start lever, is reate a vacuum leak (lean condition) to help it start when hot and excess hydrocarbons in the combustion chamber.  If the hot start plunger is stuck open, that will create an unwanted vacuum leak when not needed.  The plunger could be stuck because of debris or carbon, or the hot start cable could be stuck and holding the plunger open too.  When you pull on the hot start lever, it should pull smoothly, and have a springy return feeling.  If the lever is loose and floppy, that can be an indication the plunger is stuck open, and the spring can't push the plunger, cable and lever back into position.

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Yea the hot start is fine ive taken the carb off and checked it, it functions as it should as far as I know.. But when it is hot and I push the choke in it will die. And when its running and I to try to adjust idle from the adjuster it doesn't seem to really make that much difference either way I screw it. And im pretty sure I set the fuel air screw between two and two and a half turns out

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Although you cleaned the crab, there can be a hard piece of debris in the pilot circuit, that compressed air and a shot of carb cleaner won't get out.  Sometimes you may have to use a cutting torch tip cleaner, or a drill bit from a numbered drill bit set to clean the passageways.  The two aforementioned items are not to be used to bore the passageways, but to dislodge debris if present.  You probably know that, but I have to say it; you just never know who's on the other keyboard. :rolleyes:

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18 hours ago, Tygar9058 said:

Yea the hot start is fine ive taken the carb off and checked it, it functions as it should as far as I know.. But when it is hot and I push the choke in it will die. And when its running and I to try to adjust idle from the adjuster it doesn't seem to really make that much difference either way I screw it. And im pretty sure I set the fuel air screw between two and two and a half turns out

Another idea in spirit of TT - as to not knowing what is checked or not yet.

For probing and chasing ports in the carb, a good stiff monofilament/flouro fishing line works wonders.

As to it dropping off and dying and the idle adjuster.  Just as example, of the two bikes I have here, one of them the idle speed adjusting screw does not work.  The reason is that flex cable that goes from the knob to the screw stop on the other side of the carb is knarled and broken.  I can turn the knob and feel resistance but nothing happens.  The stop screw is also quite stiff.   I adjust the idle on that bike by using long needle nose pliers to twist the screw at the carb.   So, I guess I am saying also check that the idle screw is actually moving when you twist the little black knob.

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