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Dumb Kid Engine Build Thread

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I've been wrenching for years but I've never cracked an engine open before. I wanna have this bike put back together by October so I'm just jumping in and hoping for the best, hopefully it's be entertaining enough for you guys to follow along and give me a hand. After beating the piss out of my bike on the TAT, then getting her stolen and recovered, I didn't even try and get her running again, just stripped to the frame a few months ago. I finally got my Husky 701 sorted, so I'm going back to this project. Plan is bore, stroke, rebuild the head, FCR 41, ACT gears... I don't remember what else. Here she is right now:

 

 

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After months of wasting my money on other things, I've finally decided to get my shit together and get moving on this project. I cleaned the horrible oil gunk off the frame, and started disassembling the engine for inspection. I checked the valves while removing the head, intake are both .152mm, exhausts are .127 and .178, one of the cam lobes has some slight pitting on the tip. Head and jug are off. I have no idea what I'm looking at though. The bike was burning oil pretty good for the past 8k miles or so, anything I should be noticing here?

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Cylinder looks good but you are going big bore so that's a moot point. The pics only show one cam journal but it looks good, or at least doesnt show any signs of oil starvation or anything. I imagine you will be upgrading cams so as long as the head itself is in good shape, that's all that matters for top end.

How does it measure out for side play on the rod?

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Alright so I ordered a valve spring compressor but it's taking a little bit to come in. In the mean time, anything I should know about the head disassembly?
I'll take plenty of pics. It's my understanding that if my bore looks this good than the reason I was burning so much oil was my valves, not my rings.

I should get all new valves, springs and seals right?.

Are guides reusable if they're not worn? Locks too? Lifters?

I understand I need to have the seats cut, and they need to be cut by a shop with a Newen CNC. Do I need to know or measure anything or just send off the head and say "make it nice again"?

Should I go aftermarket valves or buy OEM parts? Should I go +1mm intake for a 470 build? I am not after peak power, I want plenty of low end. Lots of people recommend Ferrea in forums, and say to avoid Kibblewhite.

Edited by raimondi1337

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Alright so I ordered a valve spring compressor but it's taking a little bit to come in. In the mean time, anything I should know about the head disassembly?
I'll take plenty of pics. It's my understanding that if my bore looks this good than the reason I was burning so much oil was my valves, not my rings.
I should get all new valves, springs and seals right?.
Are guides reusable if they're not worn? Locks too? Lifters?
I understand I need to have the seats cut, and they need to be cut by a shop with a Newen CNC. Do I need to know or measure anything or just send off the head and say "make it nice again"?
Should I go aftermarket valves or buy OEM parts? Should I go +1mm intake for a 470 build? I am not after peak power, I want plenty of low end. Lots of people recommend Ferrea in forums, and say to avoid Kibblewhite.

I will attest for Ferrea valves, they are one piece hardened badass valves, they are close by me near Fort Lauderdale. I am convinced with as hard as I was running my dr on the past 3 enduro rides it was the saving grace of how my motor didnt grenade. Ive also heard of how the kibble whites snap, im not sure why.. taking the old valves out can be done without a special tool using a magnet to snag out the little retainer things. I did not have the valve seats recut or anything, used "lapping compound" and took the valve on the end of a drill spun it around creating for all intensive purposes a good seat. I was under the understanding that you would have to upgrade the crank to hit 470. Hope this helps

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Based on how nice your internals look, I'm guessing your valves are fine.

What oil do you run? Oil quality can have a large influence on consumption.

Edit

Hey, what year Low Rider? :D

Edited by Bermudacat
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23 hours ago, PirateCaptain said:


I will attest for Ferrea valves, they are one piece hardened badass valves, they are close by me near Fort Lauderdale. I am convinced with as hard as I was running my dr on the past 3 enduro rides it was the saving grace of how my motor didnt grenade. Ive also heard of how the kibble whites snap, im not sure why.. taking the old valves out can be done without a special tool using a magnet to snag out the little retainer things. I did not have the valve seats recut or anything, used "lapping compound" and took the valve on the end of a drill spun it around creating for all intensive purposes a good seat. I was under the understanding that you would have to upgrade the crank to hit 470. Hope this helps

I've read that modern valves are coated and that lapping them like that removes the coating and will make them wear quickly. You do need a +4mm crank to go 470(462).

16 hours ago, Bermudacat said:

Based on how nice your internals look, I'm guessing your valves are fine.

What oil do you run? Oil quality can have a large influence on consumption.

Edit

Hey, what year Low Rider? :D

20w-60 Mobil 1 full synthetic motorcycle oil usually.

That's my roommate's Dyna, dunno anything about it.

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4 hours ago, raimondi1337 said:

I've read that modern valves are coated and that lapping them like that removes the coating and will make them wear quickly.

20w-60 Mobil 1 full synthetic motorcycle oil usually.

That's my roommate's Dyna, dunno anything about it.

Stock DRZ valves are coated and so are titanium valves.

Ferrea are stainless steel and do not need a coating. You can lap stainless valves.

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11 minutes ago, raimondi1337 said:

Thank you very much for that little bit of information.

I think I'll just do that instead of having the head done in a shop.

If your tappets aren't tightening up, your seats and valves are likely fine.

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You mean tightening up as in cam clearance? Both exhaust valves were pretty tight. One of my cam lobes has some pitting on it, the other looks more worn on one side than the other, which I think caused those rings you can see on the tappets.

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Interesting, thanks.

If it was my engine, I would get the seats done, but install the new valves, seals and springs myself.

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I was going to get my seats cut and do the valves myself, but the local head shop wanted $250 just to cut the seats. It was cheaper for me to ship it to a guy from FL on the DRZ Owners Facebook group and have him cut and assemble it, so I did that. The plan is Ferrea valves, +1mm exhaust, OEM springs and new seals etc. I sent that out this morning.
While he's doing that I need to get the rest of the stuff together.

I need cams, dunno if I wanna go Stage 1 Hotcams or Web cams yet.
Need a new cam chain, anyone know if the Wiseco one is good or I should just get an OEM one?
Then I have to source a CW 434 kit, hopefully with gaskets and shit, probably going to go eBay for this.

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I was going to get my seats cut and do the valves myself, but the local head shop wanted $250 just to cut the seats. It was cheaper for me to ship it to a guy from FL on the DRZ Owners Facebook group and have him cut and assemble it, so I did that. The plan is Ferrea valves, +1mm exhaust, OEM springs and new seals etc. I sent that out this morning.
While he's doing that I need to get the rest of the stuff together.
I need cams, dunno if I wanna go Stage 1 Hotcams or Web cams yet.
Need a new cam chain, anyone know if the Wiseco one is good or I should just get an OEM one?
Then I have to source a CW 434 kit, hopefully with gaskets and shit, probably going to go eBay for this.

Amazon has good prices on the CW 434 kit. Don't wast your time with the stage 1 intake cam, it's like stock. I pulled mine out after a month and went to a stage two intake with stage 1 exhaust and am very pleased. It delivers way more torque where I need it now.
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8 hours ago, raimondi1337 said:

I was going to get my seats cut and do the valves myself, but the local head shop wanted $250 just to cut the seats. It was cheaper for me to ship it to a guy from FL on the DRZ Owners Facebook group and have him cut and assemble it, so I did that. The plan is Ferrea valves, +1mm exhaust, OEM springs and new seals etc. I sent that out this morning.
While he's doing that I need to get the rest of the stuff together.

I need cams, dunno if I wanna go Stage 1 Hotcams or Web cams yet.
Need a new cam chain, anyone know if the Wiseco one is good or I should just get an OEM one?
Then I have to source a CW 434 kit, hopefully with gaskets and shit, probably going to go eBay for this.

Web Cams over HotCams for sure. Either 536/536 or 293/536.

http://www.webcamshafts.com/mobile/motorcycle/suzuki/suzuki_drz_400_(00-15)_dohc_4v.html

Megacycle makes cams too.

$499 fir an honest 440 here................ http://www.maxrpms.com/dr-z-440-stealth-big-bore/

They also sell Web Cams and Megacycle. Maybe you can get a package deal.

Edited by Bermudacat

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16 minutes ago, Bermudacat said:

Either 536/536 or 293/536.

I dunno jack about cams, but neither of those are in Web's catalog. Are those the grind numbers? Is there any rhyme or reason behind them or is it basically a serial number?

I'm looking for the broadest power curve I can get, and planning on doing a stroker and ACT gears in the future, so I want the head to be able to support it at that point.

3 hours ago, Backwoods-Bomber said:


Amazon has good prices on the CW 434 kit. Don't wast your time with the stage 1 intake cam, it's like stock. I pulled mine out after a month and went to a stage two intake with stage 1 exhaust and am very pleased. It delivers way more torque where I need it now.

It's like stock - for an E model, right? I have an SM which has milder cams.

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It's like stock - for an E model, right? I have an SM which has milder cams.

No, stage 1 hotcams are barely better than stock s/sm cams. The stage 2 are closer to an e cam.

The combo of the stage 1 exhaust and stage 2 intake is for low end primarily. Another benefit is that it has a decomp on the exhaust where the stage 2's don't.

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