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Frame helicoil

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I stripped the threads while replacing a footpeg , of all things. I had to remove the foot brake to remove the pin. My bad eyes and dirt, I did not see the carder pin until it was to late. Aluminum frame. I put a nut on the back side, and it still wobbles. I assume I will helicoil it.... unless someone has a good idea?????

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Find a machine shop that can weld aluminum and have a nut welded to the back side. 

Edit: didn't comprehend what i was reading, not enough coffee. Still wobbles with a nut, got it. Yep Time-Sert would work

Edited by Bobatsea

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I did the exact same thing Tuesday night so don't feel bad (forgot that *&^%^% pin) in an effort to remove my swingarm.  Ran a tap through the hole to clean up the threads and ordered a new pivot bolt (threads on end were a little chewed as well).  A little bit of wobble till its tightened up, may get a buddy to run a helicoil in if he has time as he has the full helicoil kit (case of beer payjob) lol.  See how it goes i guess.

Time sert similar to helicoil i would assume, just a different brand?

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I have used a time sert before. Once its in it stays in. If you have to take the bolt out again it wont be as tight. The other option is to tap it and put a larger bolt.  I prefer option 2. Either way you have to tap ,and thread. 

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1 hour ago, CySinyard said:

 

Time sert similar to helicoil i would assume, just a different brand?

Same basic idea, very different approach.

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Most decent machine shops will do a Time-Sert and you will not be stuck with the kit. Having a kit is only worthwhile if you do a lot. I figure after 20 years, I am slightly ahead of the game financially (way ahead if you included time to get to and from the machine shop). But for the average home mechanic, who might do three or four in a life time (hopefully having learned from his mistakes) the kits are not justifiable. A good shop will charge $20~$30 to do it.

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I have a large supply of helicoil... and timesert, LOL, but not the size I need. I rebuilt an old tractor from the ground up. Timeserts everywhere. So they work well on aluminum?

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No way I would use anything like that, I would have it welded solid and start over, drill/tap. Foot pegs get a bunch of pressure, if it broke while pressure is on good bye your off to the nearest object side it broke on

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4 minutes ago, Smoking 2's said:

No way I would use anything like that, I would have it welded solid and start over, drill/tap. Foot pegs get a bunch of pressure, if it broke while pressure is on good bye your off to the nearest object side it broke on

I am leaning towards your answer.  Tons of stress on this one.  I would even consider checking ebay for a different frame.

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No way I would buy a frame, a decent shop could do this in an HR easily, shop rate isn't cheap but cheaper

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A Time-Sert installed in Aluminum would be much stronger than a brand new frame threads. It is very common in the aerospace industry to helicoil or in critical applications, use a Time-Sert on brand new parts due to the fact the threaded hole is larger and spreading the stress over a larger area while the threads are of a more durable material.

Welding the frame requires a welder capable of bringing the frame up to temp slowly (the entire area at and around the damaged area) to prevent warpage. I know of only a half dozen guys on the east coast I'd trust with alloy case or frame weld repair. I've seen way too may welds 'pop out' due to the wrong filler material being used and warpage due to localized heat.

A Time-Sert is $30 installed. Stronger than OEM.

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I could see heli or t-sert being better for end ways pulling forces like head bolts, but for sideways forces like a foot peg, I see it as being, at best, as good as original, and probably worse since there are two sets of threads to get possible play or wobble.

I don't know anything about the welding except my local guy would want the bare frame to do it so he could put the new hole and threads in with a drill press.

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19 minutes ago, William1 said:

A Time-Sert installed in Aluminum would be much stronger than a brand new frame threads. It is very common in the aerospace industry to helicoil or in critical applications, use a Time-Sert on brand new parts due to the fact the threaded hole is larger and spreading the stress over a larger area while the threads are of a more durable material.

Welding the frame requires a welder capable of bringing the frame up to temp slowly (the entire area at and around the damaged area) to prevent warpage. I know of only a half dozen guys on the east coast I'd trust with alloy case or frame weld repair. I've seen way too may welds 'pop out' due to the wrong filler material being used and warpage due to localized heat.

A Time-Sert is $30 installed. Stronger than OEM.

Your second paragraph was dead wrong, I know many, many, many here in ohio, it's a simple process! Motor pulled would be easier but heat Shields where made for a reason.

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Last Aluminum I had welded did not go well. I'll do a timesert and if it fails, then look into welding it

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Welding is a skill, if you don't do it for a living or practice often it's tuff. Things that get beat up is not going to last, example the foot pegs, can you beat it with a Sledge and it not wear out doubtful, a good weld will hold up beyond the first metal layed.

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7 minutes ago, 1gr8bldr said:

Last Aluminum I had welded did not go well. I'll do a timesert and if it fails, then look into welding it

It is VERY important the insert is installed properly. Like any repair, it can be done wrong or right.

I've never had a helicoil pull out or unwind but I only use them in an emergency or on a non-stressed part. A Time-Sert is much stronger than the original threads.

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And a foot pegs isn't under stress, don't sale things you know nothing about! I'm done now, sale that product to a different area of the forum

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