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sorry to start a new topic, but i'm not keen on bumping 7 year old threads that people aren't responding to.

 

Bike in question is a 2012 WR450F...

 

the tail light has the blue wire, black wire (or white? I forget) and yellow, which isn't connected.

 

I assume blue is positive. Instead of extending yellow the rest of the way through the bike and attaching it to the positive battery terminal with the brake light switch in line, would I be able to split the blue wire with a Y terminal and have blue power both blue AND yellow, with the switch 'down stream' from the Y? 

 

I'm trying not to overload my battery with extra stuff and will be running my USB/GPS directly off the battery also, so just trying to stay more tidy. 

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20 hours ago, malignity said:

sorry to start a new topic, but i'm not keen on bumping 7 year old threads that people aren't responding to.

 

Bike in question is a 2012 WR450F...

 

the tail light has the blue wire, black wire (or white? I forget) and yellow, which isn't connected.

 

I assume blue is positive. Instead of extending yellow the rest of the way through the bike and attaching it to the positive battery terminal with the brake light switch in line, would I be able to split the blue wire with a Y terminal and have blue power both blue AND yellow, with the switch 'down stream' from the Y? 

 

I'm trying not to overload my battery with extra stuff and will be running my USB/GPS directly off the battery also, so just trying to stay more tidy. 

 

What are you trying to do here?   Add the brake light?

If so, sicass racing sells a switch with a plug-and-play harness.   Plugs right in and works.  No adding wires, no cutting, no nonsense...

 

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Essentially, yes. I'm not looking to add a $60 wiring harness or what not unfortunately. Plug and play ease isn't worth the cost of cutting and running a few wires. I don't need turn signals in my state to be legal and already bought everything I need, just trying to see if blue has the capability of powering both blue and yellow. If not, I can just take it directly to the battery, but really don't need a separate harness. Even the tusk kit has you cut the front headlight wires. What's one more? 

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36 minutes ago, malignity said:

Essentially, yes. I'm not looking to add a $60 wiring harness or what not unfortunately. Plug and play ease isn't worth the cost of cutting and running a few wires. I don't need turn signals in my state to be legal and already bought everything I need, just trying to see if blue has the capability of powering both blue and yellow. If not, I can just take it directly to the battery, but really don't need a separate harness. Even the tusk kit has you cut the front headlight wires. What's one more? 

Yes. You just slice it to one side of a Tusk or other generic hydraulic brake light switch. The other side goes to the plugged brake light wire.

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22 hours ago, malignity said:

Essentially, yes. I'm not looking to add a $60 wiring harness or what not unfortunately. Plug and play ease isn't worth the cost of cutting and running a few wires. I don't need turn signals in my state to be legal and already bought everything I need, just trying to see if blue has the capability of powering both blue and yellow. If not, I can just take it directly to the battery, but really don't need a separate harness. Even the tusk kit has you cut the front headlight wires. What's one more? 

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1156/42602/Sicass-Racing-Hydraulic-Rear-Brake-Switch

 

Doesn't look like $60 to me...   and the ease of installing is worth the price in my opinion...

I have one on my 2008 WR and it works great...   took only a few minutes to install.

 

 

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I've got the switch (tusk one), I'm just trying to figure out how to power it without clogging my battery terminals. 

Is the blue wire capable of powering both blue AND yellow with a Y connector provided I have the switch down stream on the yellow side? 

 

I could just run to the positive battery terminal for yellow but I'd like to stay tidy and have the blue wire power both if it's possible without overloading it. 

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i know how to wire the switch, I guess what I'm asking is do I absolutely need to run a wire to the positive battery terminal, or can I split blue and rob power from it, on the yellow side of the split power the brake light?

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On 5/13/2017 at 5:57 AM, malignity said:

i know how to wire the switch, I guess what I'm asking is do I absolutely need to run a wire to the positive battery terminal, or can I split blue and rob power from it, on the yellow side of the split power the brake light?

It's called asked and answered. 

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