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Question about chain tension

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Would to tight of a chain make a bike feel like it was slower? For example while riding you felt like you are being held back or your dragging something? Thanks.

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Okay. I just tightened my chain after changing out to a stainless steel sprocket by sunstar and it is the same tooth as my renthal. Well the tension is at 1-3/4 on the stand. The manual calls for 1-7/8 to 2-5/16 on the stand and after I did this I noticed I couldn't lug third like before. Felt like I was being held back ever so slightly but enough to notice it. Just enough that I couldn't travel third in the sections I could before.

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1 hour ago, Hondaracer1318 said:

Okay. I just tightened my chain after changing out to a stainless steel sprocket by sunstar and it is the same tooth as my renthal. Well the tension is at 1-3/4 on the stand. The manual calls for 1-7/8 to 2-5/16 on the stand and after I did this I noticed I couldn't lug third like before. Felt like I was being held back ever so slightly but enough to notice it. Just enough that I couldn't travel third in the sections I could before.

Are you sure you're measuring at the right point? I always go to the loose end of the recommended play.

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Are you sure you're measuring at the right point? I always go to the loose end of the recommended play.

Positively in the correct spot per the manual. Why do you go to the loose end of the play?

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2 hours ago, Hondaracer1318 said:

Okay. I just tightened my chain after changing out to a stainless steel sprocket by sunstar and it is the same tooth as my renthal. Well the tension is at 1-3/4 on the stand. The manual calls for 1-7/8 to 2-5/16 on the stand and after I did this I noticed I couldn't lug third like before. Felt like I was being held back ever so slightly but enough to notice it. Just enough that I couldn't travel third in the sections I could before.

Chain is too tight alright, but it won't have any effect on power delivery. I always run mine on the loose end of the given spec to make damn sure there's enough slack for the whole travel of the swing arm. You get it too tight and you risk, at minimum, increased stretch and wear, up to breakage and trashed output shaft bearings and seals.

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Better looser than too tight, otherwise:

1) chain will stretch and require frequent adjustments / wear out

2) binds up the rear suspension

 

I went thru 3 very good chains (DID ERT2) on my YZ125 in short order by adjusting as per the service manual's specs.

Now, with the less scientific '3 fingers of slack between the slider and chain' method,

(which equals about 1/4" more slack than the maximum suggested in the manual)

the same brand chains last a whole season and require very few if any re-adjustments.

 

Ideal method to confirm is to clamp down the rear of the bike with a tie-down until the swingarm is level

and chain at it's maximum tension, even then you should still have about 1/4" (5mm) of play.

Edited by mlatour
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Physically counted teeth 51. Noticed that the chain was full of dirt and sand so I cleaned that all nicey nice. I was watching it roll and it looked like the links were not rotating freely so that's all done.

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with the axle, swing arm pivot and counter sprocket all in a strait line, further distance between both sprockets, make sure you still have some slack.

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21 hours ago, Hondaracer1318 said:


Positively in the correct spot per the manual. Why do you go to the loose end of the play?

don't want any unnecessary force implyed on the output shaft when I bottom out which happens from time to time

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The problem is now fixed. Idk what it was but I'm going to take a guess and say chain tension to tight and chain too dirty. I even went through the carb from top to bottom and cleaned that all so idk if I had a problem there but she is ripping again. Thanks

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