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2013 rmz 250 timing

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I need help with the timing on my rmz. I don't have the actual service manual, I downloaded one but am not 100% sure it is for my year. I replaced the cam chain and thought I had everything lined up but it won't start and it is really hard to kick over. Something definitely isn't right. The manual i downloaded says to line up the dots on the exhaust cam then count 13 pins over to line up with the top dot on the intake cam. Is this correct? I'm hoping someone with a 2013 rmz250 service manual can give me some input. Any help/guidance would be greatly appreciated.

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Picture is for a 2007-2009 but the idea is the same 

 

you need to have the mark on the flywheel in the right spot also.

One thing I have learned to do also is to stick my finger in where the chain tensioner goes and apply pressure like tensioner does.i have had it off one tooth a few times and did not notice until I put the tensioner in.

 

IMG_1114.PNG

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I have the line matched up exactly on the flywheel but the cams will not line up even with 13 pins between the 2 dots. In the first picture it looked like I needed to rotate both cams one tooth to the left. So I did and they don't line up that way either. The second pic is of them rotated to the left one tooth each.

 

20170512_221355.jpg

20170512_222138.jpg

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Remove cam chain tensioner. Take it off the bike completely. Get cam dots lined up, when you put the chain on make the chain tight in the front of the motor. Start putting chain on from left side, tighten, wrap exhaust cam with dots lined, keep chain tight in between cams, load chain onto intake cam. Now the right side should be loose. Push tensioner arm back in all the way. Reinstall first piece(base, 2 outer bolts) then reinstall second piece( spring,center bolt)
Use torque specs
Rotate motor a few times. Recheck timing

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Does it matter if it's on the compression stroke or not? I've read that only the cam position determines which stroke it's on. I have everything looking good and it still won't start....

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Stick a screwdriver and stick it down the plug hole. Rotate the crank until its sticking up as far as it goes. If you're not sure, rotate again. Don't go backwards. When the screwdriver gets pushed up as far as it'll go...then do everything I said in the first post.

And loop some zip ties around the cam chain and never worry about it

 

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Yeah top dead center. I've done this a few times before and never had a problem.  I've replaced the piston a few times just never the cam chain. I have everything lined up and still won't start. I even went to the shop today and bought some shims and adjusted my valves. The thing is my bike wasn't running before I replaced the cam chain so it's possible there's another reason why it's not starting. It died in the middle of a race and wouldn't start, I knew the cam chain was stretched from the sound it was making so figured it jumped a tooth and threw my timing off. I'm starting to get pretty frustrated, I've tore it down and put it back together 5 times today and still nothing 

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On 5/13/2017 at 6:21 PM, tysonramlow254 said:

Does it matter if it's on the compression stroke or not? I've read that only the cam position determines which stroke it's on. I have everything looking good and it still won't start....

This is a possibility. Your timing can be set to the wrong stroke per how the firing is programmed in the CDI. The best way to rule this out is to rotate your crank one full revolution and then reset your cams. 

If you'll notice: In one 360 degree revolution of the crank the cams only rotate 180 degrees. I did this when setting the timing on my 2013 last year. After replacing the cam chain, I put everything back together perfect and it wouldn't fire. Took it back apart, rotated the crank 360, reset my cams, put it back together and she fired right up. I really hope this is the issue. 

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FOUR strokes. One of ems compression. There is a wasted spark cause the ignition happens at that stroke physically/mechanically but in the four strokes, intake, compression, combustion, exhaust, the cam and crank should be at tdc of the compression stroke, which is tdc of either when cams are out. Then when the cams connect to crank, you gotta follow the 1,2,3,4

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Thank you guys for the replies, they're much appreciated! I ended up taking it to a shop. The mechanic called today and told me he thinks I need a new crank and will cost between $1500-$2000 to replace which is devastating because I have nowhere near that much extra cash. He told me this based on copper colored metal shavings in the oil filter apparently. I'm thinking of tearing down the top end and checking out the crank. But this is getting to be beyond my level of mechanical abilities....

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Just buy a new rod and new main bearings and have a pro install the rod and you build the rest of the motor. Cranks fine if its pin measures fine
The copper is the rods thrust washers, your cranks fine.

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Thank you guys for the replies, they're much appreciated! I ended up taking it to a shop. The mechanic called today and told me he thinks I need a new crank and will cost between $1500-$2000 to replace which is devastating because I have nowhere near that much extra cash. He told me this based on copper colored metal shavings in the oil filter apparently. I'm thinking of tearing down the top end and checking out the crank. But this is getting to be beyond my level of mechanical abilities....


$1500-2000 for a crank? Is he on crack?

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