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17 handling issues

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Is anyone else having trouble with the handling on this bike? I have had the suspension done, and have slid the the forks and down, tried a lot of sag and tried a little sag and nothing seems to get the front end of this thing to bite, it slides around like I am riding in gravel. I have tried diff tire pressures but nothing seems to do the trick. I have made it BETTER but not great. Once it is up to speed the front end starts dancing around like crazy, I was really big fan of how my 15 handled, it felt like i could point and go, this bike doesn't want to turn at all, seems good in ruts but if there isn't a rut I have to get on the gas to get the back to slide just to get the bike to change directions. Was just wondering if anyone has any suggestions or if I am the only one w this issue?

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When you say you've had the suspension done, are you sure they've got it right? How heavy are you? I had some issues with mine dancing around at speed on sharp bumps and the back kicking up but never with front end grip. Mine was revalved front and back to allow the oil to flow much easier. Its a lot softer than standard and now handles really well. You won't want to hear it but sounds like you're setup isn't quite right somewhere?

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We are having the same issue.  We have had the 2017 Honda crf450 since march 2017 (about two months). My son is a B/A rider.  We have done everything we can think of to solve this issue and it still isn't handling.  He gets very aggravated riding now.  

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it's set up, simple. This years bike is very very sensitive to chassis balance. No way to diagnose on the internet. See if you can get your suspension tuner to meet you at the track. I also have fought handling on this bike. Fist thing to do is take out the bolts that hold the mid pipe on, next to the lower subframe bolts. I told guys to do this months ago when the bikes first came out and was laughed at. now, not only have I read online test who say to do the same, the new MXA mag also says to remove them. Lighten up the swing arm pivot bolt torque by 5 ft lbs as well as engine hangers. If you have the R you can remove the lower tank bolts. All this is to relax the chassis. Once you do this you can work on balance. Don't forget to use the high speed on the shock. Even a 1/8" can make a difference. The bike wants 107/108 mm sag. Set it and go to work on clickers is my advice.

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4 hours ago, DEGBTI said:

it's set up, simple. This years bike is very very sensitive to chassis balance. No way to diagnose on the internet. See if you can get your suspension tuner to meet you at the track. I also have fought handling on this bike. Fist thing to do is take out the bolts that hold the mid pipe on, next to the lower subframe bolts. I told guys to do this months ago when the bikes first came out and was laughed at. now, not only have I read online test who say to do the same, the new MXA mag also says to remove them. Lighten up the swing arm pivot bolt torque by 5 ft lbs as well as engine hangers. If you have the R you can remove the lower tank bolts. All this is to relax the chassis. Once you do this you can work on balance. Don't forget to use the high speed on the shock. Even a 1/8" can make a difference. The bike wants 107/108 mm sag. Set it and go to work on clickers is my advice.

Taking out the lower tanks bolts will have the tank bouncing around with only the one small bolt on the top.

You do not have a issue with this?

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3 hours ago, XpT__cpg_33 said:

Taking out the lower tanks bolts will have the tank bouncing around with only the one small bolt on the top.

You do not have a issue with this?

I run an IMS tank, so cant say for sure. I know they use a rubber band sort of thing on the HRC bikes. You could fab your own. No, I am not saying to use a regular rubber band!

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Ride engineering just released some new dog bones to let rear squat better haven't tried them yet. I just got notified about them

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51 minutes ago, Mxer59 said:

Ride engineering just released some new dog bones to let rear squat better haven't tried them yet. I just got notified about them

from the people I know who have tried longer links do not run them. just fyi. Not saying they don't work for anyone, just didn't for them at the pro level in off road racing

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I also read the MXA article about bolt removal and am sceptical. Is the frame really going to flex much if you take out the tank bolts? I remain to be convinced on that one. The frame looks way stiffer than the tank could ever be. Also that titanium tank rattling around, vibrating the fuel pump? I'd like to try it with some small plastic or wooden pegs in the bolt holes just to prove if it actually does create any movement. Also removing the exhaust bolts, do I want vibration to cause cracks in my Yoshi? Not really, its held together with springs anyway so you'd think that would allow some movement if needed. I had cracks appear in a Yoshi system on my old honda, on the backs of both the muffler cans without leaving bolts out. I might just do that experiment on the tank bolts though.

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16 hours ago, Dklassen said:

If it's possible find a late 80's YZ490 and try riding that around a track for a few laps. The Honda will be much better afterwards!

after ridding this sweeheart the crf feels just fine

IMG_0717.JPG

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2 hours ago, PETE24 said:

after ridding this sweeheart the crf feels just fine

IMG_0717.JPG

LOL !  I remember riding models with dual rear shocks / chassis in the late 70's & the handling was not forgiving on those bikes. 

Had an 09 & still riding a 10 model that the majority complained about the handling on those bikes (09-12's).   After having FC revalve the suspension & setting it up the 10 has been rock solid in the handling dept..

OP it's definitely a set up issue... 

Edited by H4L

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My 17 handles better than any other bike I've owned, so something must be funky with your suspension set up. I also always take the time to learn how my suspension is going to handle various things before I start messing with clickers/fork position/sag after having work done to it (revalve)....you can't know what direction you're going in if you don't have a solid base setting to go off of.  

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On 5/16/2017 at 10:20 AM, DEGBTI said:

it's set up, simple. This years bike is very very sensitive to chassis balance. No way to diagnose on the internet. See if you can get your suspension tuner to meet you at the track. I also have fought handling on this bike. Fist thing to do is take out the bolts that hold the mid pipe on, next to the lower subframe bolts. I told guys to do this months ago when the bikes first came out and was laughed at. now, not only have I read online test who say to do the same, the new MXA mag also says to remove them. Lighten up the swing arm pivot bolt torque by 5 ft lbs as well as engine hangers. If you have the R you can remove the lower tank bolts. All this is to relax the chassis. Once you do this you can work on balance. Don't forget to use the high speed on the shock. Even a 1/8" can make a difference. The bike wants 107/108 mm sag. Set it and go to work on clickers is my advice.

I did remove the extra mid pipe bolts back when you said it before. Took some harshness out out of the rear. Also read about drilling a hole through the engine hangers. Does lightening the torque on swingarm and engine hangers do the same? Is there any reason to worry about cracking frame or hangers or exhaust from extra flex?

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I don't feel like my suspension isn't working, the balance of the bike just doesn't feel right to me, the front end won't hook up, it just seems to slide. I also can't get the bike to change direction, I really liked how easy the 13-16 bikes turned and handled, just wondering how to get this bike to turn that well and be stable at speed, seems like I can't get either out of it. Right now I am at 106 sag and forks slid up probably 10mm, front end is super unstable at speed, does not hook up, hard to turn and rear end isn't very settled. Before that I was at 100mm sag with forks slid up 5mm and still the same complaint, doesn't seem to make any positive different no matter where I set it up at, still the same complaints about the handling.

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Raising the forks 10mm will make the bike opposite of stable. And you're not changing the balance of the bike by making the same ~5mm lowering/raising moves both front and rear at the same time. Leave the forks where the manual says to put them and change the Race Sag. What's your free sag?

Edited by Eddie8v

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When I first got the bike it wasn't turning very well so my intention was to shift the weight of the bike into the front wheel by raising the forks and running less sag to try to get more traction in the front end and get it to turn better, didn't seem to help any and it made it way more unstable, so I tried to leave the forks and run a little more sag to try to calm it down and it didn't seem to help either. I'm not sure on my free sag, I will have to check.

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On ‎5‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 1:51 PM, nate1001 said:

I did remove the extra mid pipe bolts back when you said it before. Took some harshness out out of the rear. Also read about drilling a hole through the engine hangers. Does lightening the torque on swingarm and engine hangers do the same? Is there any reason to worry about cracking frame or hangers or exhaust from extra flex?

I drilled my engine hangers, I think it was 5mm? A Honda race team mechanic told me to torque the swing arm and engine hangers 5 ft lbs less than the manual calls out. Just frees up the chassis. These are little tricks that these guys learn testing while we are at work all day!

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I`d check fork alignment too. If the forks are binding it will not handle very well.

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