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So I have a friend with a 230 that wants to up grade forks. I have in my shop Xr250/400 forks. I read somewhere guys where mounting Late Xr250 triple clamps,with just a spacer. To the 230 well  Cant see how they did it Xr250/Xr400 stem 1 in too long. I will pursue the Xr400 forks as I can make them work great for cheap. While MR Tripplet is the only one I know that can make Xr250 fork work. Then it is over 500$ just for that. My work and price of forks  puts it in n no zone. This much I know for Xr4 swap Need mod stem,Shim stack mod,stock spring good,2 1 /2 wt oil. Pull fork up 1 in in triple clamp,make spacer out of PVC in fork to reduce 1 to 1 1/2 in travel. Remove factory preload spacer,Maybe cut spring. Use Xr4 wheel,Or put bearings/spacers in 230 frt wheel to fit Xr4 axle. So let the fun begin. In case your wondering why I dont tell him to use Cr85/150 forks. Simple he does not want to spend $$$$$$$

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 I saw some xr250 forks for sale around here, glad I didn't buy em. Now another is selling o6 crf250x forks in my area, any knowledge on these?

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The only knowledge I have  on Crf250X fork dont use them on a crf230 for trail riding. Still I saw a post here years ago that someone said.Just one spacer on Xr250 triple clamp and they fit. There was even a picture but I dont remember where spacer was. If true then Xr4 triple would fit as It is now I may try to press out 230 stem. To mount in Xr4 triple clamp. Or there are guys here that Cut there aluminum stem in the middle shortened about 1in. Before welding back to gather put steel tube/rod down middle hole to make sure alignment perfect. Even that the guys have rode there bikes here for years none broke welded stem it scares me.  Anybody mount Xr250r Triple Clamp on 230 please speak up.

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Only thing I can add is the guy selling those 2001 xr250 forks had a 230, and said it only need a 1" (or) so spacer on the stem. I was uncertain why he didn't do the swap to his bike so passed on the deal.

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So after seeing all the posts about washers on stem to make bearings fit ,with pictures.  All I can say WOW NO GOOD. I have here complete Xr4 and Xr250 triples. Also have loose xr250/400 stems. When they space with washers the lower bearing is sitting halfway in recessed part of stem.With no full contact I would then assume same on top bearing. So may have to do cut weld. 

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 Just thinking, be sure the stem is straight if you cut and weld or the bearings may bind when turning. 

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If you don't want to use shims under the bearing ITS OK :) you could buy a Emig racing stem. I used xr600r forks and triple with automotive valve spring shims under bearings. Only about 10% of bearing sits over the recess area. May be different with the 400/250 stem. 

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55 minutes ago, ricky racer said:

I would never cut and weld that area. Sketchy I think.

 

55 minutes ago, ricky racer said:

I would never cut and weld that area. Sketchy I think.

Im  with you on that R Racer Cut and weld I dont like it. I dont like that on 250/400 stem half the bearing on taper part. Now the good news I just found a XR650R stem. The top is correct the bottom last 3  1/4 in too thick for bearing and xr4 triple clamp. Bingo if my machinist can turn it down then cut bottom off perfect. Yes I know about custom stems and other parts. If I cant do this low budget for the guy then I scrap idea. The late Xr600/xr400 forks are so dam good for trail riding. 

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For decades Honda used the same bearing in the steering heads of the off road bikes; a pair of 26x47 taper roller bearings, they are based on a standard 25x47 (#32005) bearing with a 1mm larger ID. You can buy the outers at any bearing shop but the inner is a Honda only part (#91015-425-832 $24) and comes complete with the outer.

Same bearings top & bottom

  • 87-00 CR80
  • 96-02 CR80RB
  • 03-07 CR80
  • 03-07 CR80RB
  • 82-92 CR125
  • 82-91 CR250
  • 82-83 CR480
  • 84-01 CR500
  • 03-07 CRF150F
  • 07-08 CRF150R/RB
  • 03-08 CRF230F
  • 81-07 XR200R/250R/350R/400R/600R
  • 82-90 XL200/250/350/500/600

CRF/XR bearing conversion: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/555802-cr-steering-stem-specificationspics/?p=12108267

Good thread on coverting forks to a XR: https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/555802-cr-steering-stem-specificationspics/

As BTR pointed out stem length is usually a problem on these conversions.

Edited by Chuck.
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On ‎5‎/‎15‎/‎2017 at 10:32 PM, bajatrailrider said:

So I have a friend with a 230 that wants to up grade forks. I have in my shop Xr250/400 forks. I read somewhere guys where mounting Late Xr250 triple clamps,with just a spacer. To the 230 well  Cant see how they did it Xr250/Xr400 stem 1 in too long. I will pursue the Xr400 forks as I can make them work great for cheap. While MR Tripplet is the only one I know that can make Xr250 fork work. Then it is over 500$ just for that. My work and price of forks  puts it in n no zone. This much I know for Xr4 swap Need mod stem,Shim stack mod,stock spring good,2 1 /2 wt oil. Pull fork up 1 in in triple clamp,make spacer out of PVC in fork to reduce 1 to 1 1/2 in travel. Remove factory preload spacer,Maybe cut spring. Use Xr4 wheel,Or put bearings/spacers in 230 frt wheel to fit Xr4 axle. So let the fun begin. In case your wondering why I dont tell him to use Cr85/150 forks. Simple he does not want to spend $$$$$$$

 

Upsides:  Cartridge tune-a-bility, large diameter, Honda parts,

 

Downsides:  HEAVY!, lots-o-mods to install on CRF230F, gotta cut spring to shorten,

 

Gonna spend some money regardless, what will the end result be, what you want?

 

On ‎5‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 9:07 AM, firsthere said:

 I saw some xr250 forks for sale around here, glad I didn't buy em. Now another is selling o6 crf250x forks in my area, any knowledge on these?

 

The "X" forks are a simpler version of CRF250R forks, no low speed compression stack on BV.  You will need an Emig stem, CRF250R or X triple clamps, wheel, rotor, caliper.  Some 230F stuff might interchange.

How much are the forks selling for?

 

On ‎5‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 10:53 AM, bajatrailrider said:

The only knowledge I have  on Crf250X fork dont use them on a crf230 for trail riding. Still I saw a post here years ago that someone said.Just one spacer on Xr250 triple clamp and they fit. There was even a picture but I dont remember where spacer was. If true then Xr4 triple would fit as It is now I may try to press out 230 stem. To mount in Xr4 triple clamp. Or there are guys here that Cut there aluminum stem in the middle shortened about 1in. Before welding back to gather put steel tube/rod down middle hole to make sure alignment perfect. Even that the guys have rode there bikes here for years none broke welded stem it scares me.  Anybody mount Xr250r Triple Clamp on 230 please speak up.

Not so, they can be re-valved for woods.

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13 hours ago, ricky racer said:

I would never cut and weld that area. Sketchy I think.

I wouldn't be worried a bit welding the stem at the mid point between the bearings.  That's the point of least stress on the stem.  Most of the load is at the clamps top and bottom and there's minimal tension load on stem.  And, as mentioned, a tube or pin can be pressed into the splice before welding.  Also, a good welder knows how to weld this into alignment.  A stem can be lengthened or shortened this way.

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MM on Crf250x fork  Not so can be re Valved for woods. True but you left out nightmare with limited results. I consider Chuck to have more knowledge on 250x fork he knows what he is doing. I think that fork a very costly mod for 230 plush factor very difficult for backyard tuner. I stand by my post that is the last fork I would use on the 230. As far as weight xr4  V  230f . The 230 has metal stem lower triple clamp/ Xr4 AL stem triple clamp  the WT is a wash. Now lets get back to tuning Xr4 fork for backyard mechanic. To make fork same length as 230 fork. You pull forks up in triple clamp 1in, then PVC spacer in fork ( A wooping 2$ or less)  1  1/4in. Now Xr4 fork same length as 230. Stock Xr4 spring perfect for 230. Any backyard mechanic can do cut  spring  mod  (I know by cutting spring it makes it very slight bit stiffer) Not enough that you can feel. Xr4 base valve mod simple zero cost easy to do. Now on front wheel problem. Bolt on Xr4 wheel , The 230 15mm axle/xr4   17mm axle.  El Cheapo way buy Xr4 wheel bearings cent collar/wheel spacers/direct fit 230 wheel. So now the only costly part on Xr4 triple clamp. This part experiment Ebay buy stock Xr650R triple clamp, or just the stem. In my case all the parts just collecting dust in shop. That stem can be turned down last bottom 3  1/4in to fit Xr4 lower bearing then cut to fit. Machine shop work shop work in the states should be no more then 50/75$, of course in  baja  25$. Bikes we Currently use  Modded Xr4 forks    XR4 / XR250 / WR450. Is there a better working fork for trail riding with free simple free mod . Trust me it will not be any USD fork including CR85/150 fork. This is untested so stay tuned boys. I think late Xr400R is same Wt or real close to the 230f . So since they work great on our Xr250s  Im hoping same on 230. 

Edited by bajatrailrider

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24 minutes ago, Baja Rambler said:

I wouldn't be worried a bit welding the stem at the mid point between the bearings.  That's the point of least stress on the stem.  Most of the load is at the clamps top and bottom and there's minimal tension load on stem.  And, as mentioned, a tube or pin can be pressed into the splice before welding.  Also, a good welder knows how to weld this into alignment.  A stem can be lengthened or shortened this way.

Baja Hooter Rambler  Your right on stem cut weld. Mike has been cutting re welding steel and AL stems for over 45 years. None broke ever he told me the time I lost looking in my shop for 650R stem. I could of cut and welded xr4 stem in 1 hour. AHHH but my time is worthless I just like to play with parts.

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Upsides:  Cartridge tune-a-bility, large diameter, Honda parts,

Downsides:  HEAVY!, lots-o-mods to install on CRF230F, gotta cut spring to shorten,

Gonna spend some money regardless, what will the end result be, what you want?

I agree, cartridges offer much more versatile tuning, but they must be taken apart to make changes.

According to posted weights a Showa 47 front end from a CRF250/250/R/X is lighter than a 230 front end.

XR200R front end no bars/fender 46lbs
CR85R front end w/ 21" no bars/fender 39lbs
CRF250X front end no bars/fender 49lbs
CRF230F front end posted on TT 58lbs

Quote

The "X" forks are a simpler version of CRF250R forks, no low speed compression stack on BV.  You will need an Emig stem, CRF250R or X triple clamps, wheel, rotor, caliper.  Some 230F stuff might interchange.

I have a CRF250X with R forks and the published stock differences in the low speed BV stacks between the CRF250R and X is the number of face shims, the high speeds stacks are identical except for a few shims near the clamp.  Some of the variations depend on year. The shim stacks need to be much different for tight gnarly trails.

Showa 47s are used on the late CR125/250R and CRF250/450/R/X.

Quote

Not so, they can be re-valved for woods.

Not easily, I have R forks on my X and revalving has been ongoing and they still are not as plush as the mini bike Showas on my XR or the KYB conventional cartridge forks on my RM.

Easiest and cheapest is to upgrade stock forks, downside is they are not as good as cartridge forks. But that begs the questions of what do you need for your riding area, how do you ride, and what are your expectations?
My angst is based on migrating from DR and early cartridge forks to modern MX style forks and finding the USD MX forks very harsh for my riding area. IMO is the late KYB and Showa conventional cartridge forks (w/ C & R clickers) are the best, but a bit heavier than some newer forks. The Showa 47s are very good forks for MX but too rigid and harsh for gnarly trashy trails. The Showa 37U mini bike forks are a good compromise for weight and performance and seem to suit my type of riding.

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Is there any reason you have not looked at emulators? I have a set in my daughter's ttr230 (same fork as the CRF230) and it made vast improvements in pogo effect and acts like a cartridge fork. $130, drop in part with minor damping rod changes. Spring change on the emulator is very easy as well. 

 

 

 

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Emulators have been out since stone age. Agreed Improvement over stock 230 fork still that's not saying much. For stock 230 cheap mod Ok but will never match fork conversion.

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But that begs the questions of what do you need for your riding area, how do you ride, and what are your expectations?

I think these are the important questions because we ride a wide varieties of terrain, have different riding experiences/skills, and have a variety of expectation for each bike/terrain that we may be riding.  When I'm doing trail work or escorting I want a low seat height. When the terrain is really gnarly I want my Trials bike but I would never take it on a long ride. Nor would I take my X for a gnarly trail ride, well maybe a short one because of the estart. For years I rode bikes with DR forks and never complained, just fussed with springs, oil viscosity, level, and DR holes.  Now I'm more involved in shock valving than I ever imagined. :banghead:

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5 hours ago, Baja Rambler said:

I wouldn't be worried a bit welding the stem at the mid point between the bearings.  That's the point of least stress on the stem.  Most of the load is at the clamps top and bottom and there's minimal tension load on stem.  And, as mentioned, a tube or pin can be pressed into the splice before welding.  Also, a good welder knows how to weld this into alignment.  A stem can be lengthened or shortened this way.

And i bet  you can't get any shop who knows it is going to have anything to do with steering a motor vehicle do it.  

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