Jump to content

DRZ will not run right. JD kit installed.

Recommended Posts

Please save me from murdering my DRZ.

My bike has been running as if it is lean. Jetting came to me with a 30 pilot and 160 main...pretty rich right? It was still acting lean. I checked the boots and installed a JD kit with red needle on 3rd position, 25 pilot, and 160 main as recommending by the instructions. Bike did run a lot better, but still an uncomfortable amount of popping and back firing and the off idle response was certainly not crisp and would often bog or die unless rolled on. I adjusted the fuel screw out to around 3 turns out and that fixed the bog, but the bike eventually died on me and hasn't started since.

 

The bike has a 3x3, FMF slip on, stock header. Is there anything I may be over looking? Electrical, valve clearance, etc?

 

I also messed with the idle screw trying to find a spot the bike would start and now I'm lost. Where should this screw be set at?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, v757b said:

 I also messed with the idle screw trying to find a spot the bike would start and now I'm lost. Where should this screw be set at?

 

Depends what screw exactly, there is the air/fuel mixture screw with usually is set to gently seated then backed off 2.25 - 2.75 turns as a starting point and troubleshoot rich and lean conditions from there.

The other screw is your idle set speed, and that should be adjusted to get the bike to idle at OEM specs when warm and running choke off. Not sure of the exact number but I think I run around 1400rpm and leave it there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Depends what screw exactly, there is the air/fuel mixture screw with usually is set to gently seated then backed off 2.25 - 2.75 turns as a starting point and troubleshoot rich and lean conditions from there.
The other screw is your idle set speed, and that should be adjusted to get the bike to idle at OEM specs when warm and running choke off. Not sure of the exact number but I think I run around 1400rpm and leave it there.


OK! I was referring to the screw that sets idle speed. The fuel/air was set to 2.5, then to 3 to try and remedy the lean condition.

My bike died when I was messing with the idle screw and wouldn't start back up. I think I was low on gas, I switched to reserve and tried to start it up a few times (while playing with the screw to try and get it going again). I filled it with gas, tried to start a few times, with no luck, until the battery died and the walk of shame. I was just wondering if there was a ball park setting (like setting the fuel air screw...two turns out, etc)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
What exhaust, elevation and air filter?


Exhaust is the stock header with a FMF Titanium 4

Elevation ~250ft

Air filter is a foam replacement, brand new.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Exhaust is the stock header with a FMF Titanium 4

Elevation ~250ft

Air filter is a foam replacement, brand new.

Stock header may be better with 22.5 pilot and 155 main but it should run how it is. The mixture screw/idle speed screw is a delicate balance. Start at 2 turns out on the mixture and set the idle a bit high until it gets good and warmed up. Once warm, turn the mixture screw until you find the highest idle speed. Now turn the mixture screw out slowly until the idle speed drops just slightly. Now turn the idle speed down to the desired rpm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Backwoods-Bomber said:


Stock header may be better with 22.5 pilot and 155 main but it should run how it is. The mixture screw/idle speed screw is a delicate balance. Start at 2 turns out on the mixture and set the idle a bit high until it gets good and warmed up. Once warm, turn the mixture screw until you find the highest idle speed. Now turn the mixture screw out slowly until the idle speed drops just slightly. Now turn the idle speed down to the desired rpm.
 

I thought you were supposed to adjust the fuel screw at a very low idle so the bike doesn't run on the needle? Wouldn't a high idle defeat this purpose? 

Edited by Atolduso
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I thought you were supposed to adjust the fuel screw at a very low idle so the bike doesn't run on the needle? Wouldn't a high idle defeat this purpose? 

Yes, I agree completely. However, he is having trouble just getting it to run at this point so it's better to start with a bike that is running off the needle than not running at all.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×