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Bought a 2016 rmz 450, now what?

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Just picked up a new 2016, is there anything I should keep a eye on, or tips? It's my first new fourstoke so I hope I like it!!

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You will love it. Keep the oil fresh, change your filters, and run good gas through it. 

Just a disclaimer! Have the suspension set up! If you do not you are doing nothing but short selling yourself. The RMZ is very good once set up and it needs to be balanced to perform to its full potential. The big companies have gotten very good at setting it up, so don't base your opinion off of what you read in the mags. 

Have the ECU remapped. It makes a world of difference. 

Other than that, you really don't need anything else for the bike to perform very well. 

Edited by BDubb106

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I'm in Canada so where would I get the ecu remapped? And what will that do?

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Well you will get alot of different opinions on that but I will give you mine, I have done this for every motor I have ever built, 2stroke, 4stroke rotary etc, Warm it up fully, so the the top tank on the radiators are warm to touch, then just ride it and ride it hard, no need to abuse it but dont hold back. Once you stop let it fully cool down and then repeat, change the oil at one hour and then next time at 2-4 hours. The materials and tolerances these days are so amazing that you have very little to worry about, if something fails it was always going to fail. The key here is to bed the rings in correctly. 

Dont forget to grease the steering stem, linkage and swingarm etc, and do a bolt check on everything including spokes. 

Enjoy, they are great bikes

Edited by Rotaholic
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FWIW......

Spring conversion kit.

And these are the mods I did to my "13"  "14" "16"

Revalved. New stiction-free piston.

Roll-on quick throttle.

Factory pro shift kit.

Pro-Circuit Heavy Duty clutch springs. 

Extended Clutch camshaft. 

Remove judder spring.

270 O/S front rotor.

52 rear sprocket and 116 link good chain. 

Torc 1 footpegs. 

RM 250 air filter cage.

FMF exhaust for low end. PC for more rev.

Acerbis skid plate.

Had my "14" re mapped. Roll of the dice if it is worth it to you. You don't want to be without your ECU as long as I was.

Consider these mods as well as others suggestions. Reach out to others on set-up and handling tricks.

 

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41 minutes ago, Rotaholic said:

Well you will get alot of different opinions on that but I will give you mine, I have done this for every motor I have ever built, 2stroke, 4stroke rotary etc, Warm it up fully, so the the top tank on the radiators are warm to touch, LET IT COOL COMPLETELY AND CHECK OIL/ COOLANT LEVEL, then just ride it and ride it hard, no need to abuse it but dont hold back I RIDE IT LIKE NORMAL BUT STAY OFF THE REV LIMITER, I TRY NOT TO GO MUCH OVER 3/4 THROTTLE. Once you stop let it fully cool down CHANGE THE OIL INCLUDING CLEANING THE SCREENS and then repeat, change the oil AGAIN (THE ZUKE IS NOTORIOUS FOR SHEDDING A LOT OF FINE METAL SHAVINGS SO DO NOT BE ALARMED UNLESS YOU HAVE CHUNKS AND I DO NOT WANT THEM FLOATING AROUND THE MOTOR) at one hour and then next time at 2-4 hours. The materials and tolerances these days are so amazing that you have very little to worry about, if something fails it was always going to fail. The key here is to bed the rings in correctly. 

Dont forget to grease the steering stem, linkage and swingarm, AXLES etc, and do a bolt check on everything including spokes. I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH, YOU WILL THANK YOURSELF LATER.

Enjoy, they are great bikes

I do the exact same... except what is in bold text. Hope it is not too difficult to follow. 

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Hopefully I made the right decision going with the efi four stroke, looking through the service manual and man is there a lot of stuff that could go wrong. Hopefully it holds up well... so much electronics!!!

Edited by pete11

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Hopefully I made the right decision going with the efi four stroke, looking through the service manual and man is there a lot of stuff that could go wrong. Hopefully it holds up well... so much electronics!!!

 

 

Treat it well and maintain it and it won't let you down. Just a tip once you get done washing it blow the bike off with a leaf blower or air compressor so all the water gets out of the connections and DO not spray a pressure washer right up on electrical plugs or bolts and bearings...you'll love the bike. Just take your time setting it up like said above the bike has to be setup for you to get the real yellow magic feel

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As to the break in process I do mine a little different

COOL DOWN COMPLETELY BETWEEN EACH OF THESE STEPS

1st ride let it idle tell warm then ride it for 30 minutes at just a cruise

2nd ride idle tell warm cruise with some half throttle

3rd idle tell warm several half throttles and a few wide opens

4th ride or like you would normally

Change oil once done and then continue changing air filter every ride and oil every 5 and oil filter every 10

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Just the one. Paper filter under the 1200ml cover on the right hand side, 12mm sump plug under the motor, there is an 8mm drain bolt on the left hand side, you need to take the plastic guard off to access it, it has a washer with a rubber seal, its near the bottom and will look different to the other crankcase bolts. 12mm bolt behind gear shifter has the metal strainer, this will tell you everything you need to know about whats going on in your engine. It has a magnet and two clips inside, very easy to clean.

Edited by Rotaholic
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Sweet, thanks for all the info guys, keep it coming if you have any other tricks or tips!!

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How does the starting gate button thing work? Reading the manual but I really don't understand.

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Start the bike, hold it in short press, it will flash slowly, hold it in long press it will flash fast, I can't remember which is which, I don't use that feature though after trying a lot of starts unless it's a concrete start gate.

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I never use it. I've learned a good technique is more important than adapting to the difference. Proper clutch modulation is the easiest way to get good starts. 

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First real ride tonight at my local sand track, very impressed with the bike so far. I got all the suspension at stock settings and sag around 105 and it felt pretty good. Front end though was quite twitchy in the sand though, going to have drop the forks not sure how much though.  Does anyone have a decent setup that they would like to share? Thanks

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First real ride tonight at my local sand track, very impressed with the bike so far. I got all the suspension at stock settings and sag around 105 and it felt pretty good. Front end though was quite twitchy in the sand though, going to have drop the forks not sure how much though.  Does anyone have a decent setup that they would like to share? Thanks



Before you drop them tighten the stem. Dropping forks greats a tighter turn and more head shake at higher speed. To take always head shake you would lower the forks. Loose stem nut is the problem I bet
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Wet sand or dry dune/beach sand? Top clamp level with the fork tubes is my perfect sand fork height, then between 3mm and 5mm for normal riding. I think the manual says 9mm but that is insane, well great for supercross maybe. If you want to get rid of the twitch/head shake, run the rear wheel as far back as you can, and snug up the steering stem.

Edited by Rotaholic
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On 5/19/2017 at 8:45 PM, gordybaird801 said:

FWIW......

Spring conversion kit.

And these are the mods I did to my "13"  "14" "16"

Revalved. New stiction-free piston.

Roll-on quick throttle.

Factory pro shift kit.

Pro-Circuit Heavy Duty clutch springs. 

Extended Clutch camshaft. 

Remove judder spring.

270 O/S front rotor.

52 rear sprocket and 116 link good chain. 

Torc 1 footpegs. 

RM 250 air filter cage.

FMF exhaust for low end. PC for more rev.

Acerbis skid plate.

Had my "14" re mapped. Roll of the dice if it is worth it to you. You don't want to be without your ECU as long as I was.

Consider these mods as well as others suggestions. Reach out to others on set-up and handling tricks.

 

Did the 52 tooth rear sprocket make your first gear low enough to stop clutch abuse at very low speeds? I just bought a new 14 model, and the 1st gear is super high-the exact same 1.8 ratio as the 2000 kx250 I just sold...because 1st gear was too high lol. I'm turning my rmz450 into an enduro bike so I'm very interested in how the 52 tooth rear performs.

Edited by Rancher420

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