Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So I have done lots of searching but can't seem to turn up the info I am looking for.

 

So after a 25,000 mile run from Deadhorse, AK to Yaviza, Panama and back to my home in Alaska on a Rally Raid Level 3 CB500X..... I am now going back to my roots and picked up a 2004 DRZ 400 with about 2900 miles on it. Lots of reasons for it but the cut it short I know I was looking for something different for the rest of the ride around the globe.

 

So my plan is to build a bombproof DRZ that can take me everywhere and back.

 

To that effect I have already ordered an Athena 440 kit, will be going with the Hotrods +4mm crank kit, and the ACT wide ratio gears.  Where my plan differs from most of the other power mongers is that I want to keep the compression low enough to run low regular fuel without going nuclear.  That type of tuning runs a bit contrary to everything I can find info on.  So who out there has done a low comp 470?  Since the plan is a mild state of tune rather than the usual fire breather everyone else is trying to build does anyone have a good recipe for the spacer or gaskets to keep the compression low enough?  Cams for the milder state of tune? FCR 39 going to be enough carb or should I be looking to the 41? My engine building has been limited to old air-cooled 4 cylinders and for max grunt not longevity on crap fuel.

 

Lots more will be done to the bike but the motor spec is one of the ones leaving me a little out in the cold.  Want the grunt of a bigger motor to pull the wide gears but not the short life of a rocket ship.  

 

Thanks for the help. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

mine is a low dynamic compression 470.  I used a CP carrillo piston.  little over 20k miles so far.  

I'm using Hotcams II(decomp removed) on a fcr39), 4 basegasket. fwiw you'll lose like 1.8mm of effective stroke with those cams. *meh*

Learn from me though, remove the rivets on the overbore headgasket as they interfere with the head unless they've redesigned them, and hotcams camchains are shit.

I don't care about making max hp. I wanted good torque to haul my crap around, good reliability, ability to run on poor fuels. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my opinion only .. but if you want it bullet proof dont be modifying the engine at all ... if you need a larger more powerful bike then get a fresh one and dont mess with it ... not saying it cant be built well, but having built many car engines in my time i wouldnt trust a fresh built modified engine to take on an expedition like that, too many things can go wrong .. a stock dzr with the basics like an exhaust and jetted though yeah, im sure it will go around the globe a few times if you dont beat on it ... so yeah, if youre looking for reliability thats one thing, if your looking for a super tricked out bike thats another ..

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

my opinion only .. but if you want it bullet proof dont be modifying the engine at all ... if you need a larger more powerful bike then get a fresh one and dont mess with it ... not saying it cant be built well, but having built many car engines in my time i wouldnt trust a fresh built modified engine to take on an expedition like that, too many things can go wrong .. a stock dzr with the basics like an exhaust and jetted though yeah, im sure it will go around the globe a few times if you dont beat on it ... so yeah, if youre looking for reliability thats one thing, if your looking for a super tricked out bike thats another ..


Seeing as I will cracking the case to do the wide ratio it is not too much extra to do the bore and stroke. Having had a stock DRZ in my past I am wanting to bridge the gap but stay in the mild state of tune range for longevity. Plus there is no way I am building it and rolling. Lots to do first and much testing and many shake down runs prior to departure.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

×
×
  • Create New...