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Help!! I broke an important part in my TE450 cylinderhead...

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Hi.

Can somebody please help me to find a spare part thats not listed as a separate part?

It is for a Husqvarna TE450, 2007.

The part I'm talking about is the clamp that holds the bearing on the camshaft. It's formed like an U, and it is only listed together with a complete cylinder head. Not as a separate part. But its crazy to have to buy a whole new cylinder head just to fix this! Does any angel out there have any idea how to find one? Maybe from a blown engine or something?

 

IMG_5180.jpg

Edited by Highflyer

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Try cyclebuy.com or maybe eBay. Cyclebuy has parts for Husqvarna pre BMW to current 

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Thanks!

But the main problem is that I might be forced to find a used part, from another engine. The part I'm looking for is not listed as an item#. :-(

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The reason why it's not sold separately is because it's bolted to the cylinder head and then machined

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3 hours ago, rich781 said:

The reason why it's not sold separately is because it's bolted to the cylinder head and then machined

Yes, I know. But i'm forced to try to get one. It's the number 4 thats broken off. I think a new (used) one, will be better than trying to weld it. :-/

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On ‎5‎/‎22‎/‎2017 at 11:39 AM, rich781 said:

The reason why it's not sold separately is because it's bolted to the cylinder head and then machined

This is correct. If you get a cap from another engine the bore will not be correct. When you tighten the cap the cam will not turn.

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10 hours ago, S10gto said:

This is correct. If you get a cap from another engine the bore will not be correct. When you tighten the cap the cam will not turn.

Have you actually tried this?

How much OFF, can this measurments be, from cylinder-top to cylinder-top? I have to try anyway, I have no option. I understand all the consept of boring the holes in a line, and that this might be the optimal to be sure there is no forces or strain in the cam-axle. But we are talking about a complete ballbearing that is pressed into each end of the cam-axle here, and the clamps only fixes this bearings to the frame of the cylinder-top. So.......that tightening them, and they woun't turn??? I'm sorry, but I suspect that might be an slight axaggeration? That the bearing might worn out quicker, and MAYBE fail, is more the way I think. But........I've been wrong before.........once. :rolleyes:

I'll let you know. I have this part comming to me right now, with the mailman. Another kind Norwegian had this part for me.

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6 hours ago, Highflyer said:

Have you actually tried this?

How much OFF, can this measurments be, from cylinder-top to cylinder-top? I have to try anyway, I have no option. I understand all the consept of boring the holes in a line, and that this might be the optimal to be sure there is no forces or strain in the cam-axle. But we are talking about a complete ballbearing that is pressed into each end of the cam-axle here, and the clamps only fixes this bearings to the frame of the cylinder-top. So.......that tightening them, and they woun't turn??? I'm sorry, but I suspect that might be an slight axaggeration? That the bearing might worn out quicker, and MAYBE fail, is more the way I think. But........I've been wrong before.........once. :rolleyes:

I'll let you know. I have this part comming to me right now, with the mailman. Another kind Norwegian had this part for me.

the issue is those caps/head tols are, they are a bearing surface, so you maybe get one that's a little loose and cause problems or one that's slightly machined on the tighter side and lock up when you goto tighten it down. kinda like a car crank, diff bearings for each car depending on how block was machined.

hit up pointview ktm in ohio - they can line bore cam bridges/heads and maybe have a fix for you vs buying a new head

http://www.pointviewcycle.com/

how did you break that?  guessing it wasn't seated correctly and started to tighten it down?

 

 

Edited by slothy

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8 hours ago, Highflyer said:

Have you actually tried this?

How much OFF, can this measurments be, from cylinder-top to cylinder-top? I have to try anyway, I have no option. I understand all the consept of boring the holes in a line, and that this might be the optimal to be sure there is no forces or strain in the cam-axle. But we are talking about a complete ballbearing that is pressed into each end of the cam-axle here, and the clamps only fixes this bearings to the frame of the cylinder-top. So.......that tightening them, and they woun't turn??? I'm sorry, but I suspect that might be an slight axaggeration? That the bearing might worn out quicker, and MAYBE fail, is more the way I think. But........I've been wrong before.........once. :rolleyes:

I'll let you know. I have this part comming to me right now, with the mailman. Another kind Norwegian had this part for me.

I am a Engine builder with over 20 years experience.  You may get lucky if it is a ball bearing retainer but no matter what the wrong cap will influence the bearing.

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If the new cap is too tight you can buy some brass shim stock and shim it up if it's too loose you can lap it down with sandpaper on a flat plate like a piece of glass

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I've fixed a few heads with cam journals worn out or broken caps , usually have to machine the mating surface down maybe .005-.01" and then reboring the journal to size with the clamp torqued down . Have tried various brands/manufacturers of motors with mismatched heads and caps , haven't found one that's a perfect match . On most the cam would be tight before even snugging down , issue is just .001" off is already torquing sideways on the cam (or bearing in these heads) and it WILL tighten up the bearings internal tolerances causing heat , sooner failure rate or outright lockup . I'd guess the "new" cap will just break as it's torqued down if it's off enough to lockup the bearing .  I'd never run one without taking steps to rebore at least . There are some that will "work" but none/very few will actually be within spec or close enough to not have an effect ,depends a lot on how the company consistently machined the same parts from motor to motor .

This is part of what I do for a living and have seen plenty of  "I thought I'd try " fixes and their final outcome .

Shimming will just make the bore out-of-round , you'll loosen up the spot that's tight but cause the opposite side to have excessive clearance , thus the bearing will be trying to run with races shaped like an egg .

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider
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On 25.5.2017 at 4:41 PM, slothy said:

the issue is those caps/head tols are, they are a bearing surface, so you maybe get one that's a little loose and cause problems or one that's slightly machined on the tighter side and lock up when you goto tighten it down. kinda like a car crank, diff bearings for each car depending on how block was machined.

hit up pointview ktm in ohio - they can line bore cam bridges/heads and maybe have a fix for you vs buying a new head

http://www.pointviewcycle.com/

how did you break that?  guessing it wasn't seated correctly and started to tighten it down?

 

 

Hi.

I don't think Ohio will be the right place for me to send it, from Norway. But thanks anyway. I don't know why this was broken, but it simply fell apart when the screw was losened.

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On 25.5.2017 at 7:09 PM, S10gto said:

I am a Engine builder with over 20 years experience.  You may get lucky if it is a ball bearing retainer but no matter what the wrong cap will influence the bearing.

Hi

Please forgive me, if I sounded sceptical. You know, internet have a lot of "experts" that share their experiences (that not exists). I sure dont have any reason to not listen to you, and I appreciate any advice in this matter. I have my engine at a experienced motocross mechanic, and he will check these thing out.

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19 hours ago, Highflyer said:

Hi.

I don't think Ohio will be the right place for me to send it, from Norway. But thanks anyway. I don't know why this was broken, but it simply fell apart when the screw was losened.

ya sorry, i didn't notice your location :(

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On 6/6/2017 at 6:12 PM, Highflyer said:

Hi

Please forgive me, if I sounded sceptical. You know, internet have a lot of "experts" that share their experiences (that not exists). I sure dont have any reason to not listen to you, and I appreciate any advice in this matter. I have my engine at a experienced motocross mechanic, and he will check these thing out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Not a problem. I understand that. Ton of backyarders out there. LOL Hopefully the cap will be on the small side. This way it maybe opened up to work. Not ideal but may get you going again. Good luck!

 

 

Edited by S10gto

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Hi.

An update for you guys, about this mess......

My TE450(?) engine was sent, by mail, to a MX workshop to be totally rebuildt. I got this message from the shop that this part was broken. I got a new one, and as most of you said, that did'nt fit. Now.....much later, its discovered that the topp cover is cracked. I've got the engine back home now, and now I see clearly that it's the postalservice that have destroyed my engine. They have given the package a major punch (looks like the package have fallen from some height, and landed on it's head!). That have cracked the topp cover and punched the ballbearing holder to crack. I have now found a new (used) complete head from a 510, w/new topp cover, and I have to change the whole cylinder topp end. The money is leaking out of my wallet like hell....

Another thing: The mechanic could'nt fit the timing chain that I had bought. He said that it was a couple of links to short!? That made me thinking........do I have a TE510? and not a TE450? The only difference is approx. 7mm longer stroke....so all the bearings, piston, and other parts I've bought for my "450" will fit, except this timing chain. And then another issue came up in my head: I decided to have a counterbalancer shaft installed, and it has been!........But.........that is a smr450 shaft. Is that critical?? Or does it simply not dampen the vibrations as good as a smr510 would have done, and it will either way be better than without any CB-shaft?

I need some input on this mess, please.:banghead:

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I think they are the same c'balancer through the whole motors line , but even if not it can't be worse than without one . I have one sitting somewhere at home that came out of a 510 ready to install if I ever have to take it apart . No damn way I'd ever put it together without the balancer shaft.

 

Didn't the postal company pay for the damage in shipping ?

 

 

.

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47 minutes ago, jjktmrider said:

I think they are the same c'balancer through the whole motors line , but even if not it can't be worse than without one . I have one sitting somewhere at home that came out of a 510 ready to install if I ever have to take it apart . No damn way I'd ever put it together without the balancer shaft.

 

Didn't the postal company pay for the damage in shipping ?

I have raised a case against the postalservice, and are waiting for a reply, so I hope that will save me some money in the end. ;-)

 

 

.

 

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