Drz400sm jetting tropical location

[Mustafa Labari]

Hello Eddie (if he reads my topic), Hello All thumpertalk experts, 

I am not sure if i am on the right section, and I apologize if not but this is the first time I post here.

I have a question of Jetting concerning the FCR39MX on a 2009 DRZ400 SM.

The  bike is ridden all the time at sea level 22m on high temperature 33degC and high humidity > 95%( track use only). I am actually living in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 

I have tried the usual setting below but bike is not running well. Without PAJ, Bike looks and is lean. We tried with 52 pilot Jet but it is too rich... (a lot of black smoke out of the exhaust). I am about to try different settings on pilot air jet, but I kindly ask for advise first.

setting right now:

160 main jet

200 main air jet

EMN needle clip 3

45 pilot jet

100 Air slow jet in

New accelerator spring done- no O ring mod.

MRD  open pipe with 3x3 mod

Engine is stock

 

Issue with bike: 

I am obliged to keep fuel screw open 3.25 turns out to idle. If I remove the Pilot Air Jet..the bike becomes lean.

No pops on deceleration.

Bikes dies of course if I suddenly apply WOT during idling.

On my way to try without PAJ and with 48 pilot jet and next EMP needle clip 3?? WOT at idling issue Will look at it at end; I will try to turn in the AP screw a bit or maybe the leak jet. No clue if it will work...and thus my post.

Recommendations are welcome and thank you in advance guys for the support.

 

Cheers,

ML

PS; will try  to attach  some  pictures if it could help.

 

[30x26]

with fcr-MX all japanese manufacturers installed needles with diameter around R   and pilot around 42. 

wiith emn  needle, 100 air and 45 fuel your carb is way too rich.   i bet it starts without choke , and i bet you turned the idle knob too much (rising the slide is the only way to make it run).  with current jetting  you probably need a pilot around 38.

the needle is your problem,  trying to solve it installing a ridicously small pilot jet is not the solution.....

 

Edited May 22, 2017 by 30x26

[bumtarder]

^^^^I agree also.^^^^

I found the TT jetting to be really junky at low rpms and overly rich at idle.

Consider getting the JD Jetting kit JDS010 for the fcrmx.It will work much better for you.

[Mustafa Labari]

Ok thanks guys.  So if I do not want to go. For 79USD for the JDS010 with no guarantees it will work...many comments in this plateform says to avoid the JD kit... so I am left with R needle and I test different pilot from there? Is this right 30X26 ?

[bumtarder]

You are reading too many bad posts on JD kit for fcr-mx.It was developed specifically for drz400s/sm bikes with fcr-mx conversion carburetor and is very well engineered and has great instructions.

[30x26]

7 hours ago, Mustafa Labari said:

Ok thanks guys.  So if I do not want to go. For 79USD for the JDS010 with no guarantees it will work...many comments in this plateform says to avoid the JD kit... so I am left with R needle and I test different pilot from there? Is this right 30X26 ?

knowledge in this platform has never been updated to fcr-mx.  emN was the recommended needle for old fcr slant body (it worked fine),  with fcr mx you need a leaner diameter because the pilot circuit changed.  find me one bike in the world coming stock with fcrmx + N needle and i'll change my mind.....  

if money is short you can install a NCYR needle, available as oem part at suzuki and honda dealers.  it's a dual taper needle, in between the single taper EMR and the triple taper JD RED.

Edited May 25, 2017 by 30x26

[Mustafa Labari]

Thanks mate. There is actually one bike in the world currently having an EMN needle with an FCR39MX...mine! ;)) not working good but still...

I will go with the EMR needle and try. The JD kit ...do you recommend me to keep the other jet as is except the pilot ? Cheers 

[30x26]

with jd needle  you have to change pilot jet for sure, maybe also main jet. all you need is included into the kit

i would not buy emr, ncyr needle is more refined :  SUZUKI part 13383-35G40  or  honda part 16203-MEN-671

in your conditions both emr and ncyr need smaller pilot jet (maybe 40 or 42) and smaller main jet too (maybe 155). 

my  cheapest suggestion is  40 + 155 + ncyr,  for the best jetting buy jd kit

[Mustafa Labari]

Thanks a lot for your support. It is indeed appreciated...I will your proposal and let of you know. Once again, thanks for the time taken to answer. Cheers!

[dg400sm]

i live in thailand and with the thumpertalk jetting recomendations my bike was running 10.6-1 Air fuel ratio. horribly rich and would bog terribly.i am running a slant body fcr. first thing i would do is drop down to a either a 150 or 152  main jet, the main jet affects more than just wide open throttle, i run a 148 main jet but i have a baffled muffler. the emn needle is still too rich, try it on clip 2 and use a 45 pilot jet. i spent years asking for jetting recommendations and although people on here offer great advice unless they have spent time jetting their bike close to the equator most advice will be quite a bit off. i bought a wideband AFR kit and it solved all my jetting problems

[Mustafa Labari]

Thanks dg400sm...yes you are right I found no info at all when looking for jetting setup near the equator where humidity is 90% ++...Anyway we are not far from each other. So what year is your drz and what year is your slant FCR? I have already purchased jets as per 30x26 recommendation... now I am keen to try yours and see. I checked the content of a JDS010 and it has only a #42 pilot and Keihin Main Jets: 170, 165, 160 & 155... and of course their Red needle. Next week I will try 30x26 advise and see how bike reacts... then I thought trying #48 pilot, main at#165 and EMN clip2 (this are settings recommended to me by Keihin center in Netherlands). The local bike shop recommend to run the bike with #52 and keep the rest as is except to remove the PAJ (#100). 

As you see... I have a very very wide range. I have range to experiment.... Let's try... I knew anyway that venturing in the FCR way will bring me surprises :))

cheers 

[30x26]

 emn + 165  will be too rich by miles.  my suggestion 155 with ncyr  is already  on the rich side, be prepared to test 150 too.  

if you remove the carb check the slide height , it must be just higher than the minimum. set the pilot screw at 1.5 turns from closed , then with hot engine try moving  it to 0.5 and to 2.5 turns . which is better? 

Edited May 28, 2017 by 30x26

[dg400sm]

my drz is 2009 with a slant body fcr from a wr400. as stated you must change the main jet first, when tuning a bike you start from the main jet and work backwards,this is where i went wrong for years,trying to tune the midrange without setting up the main jet first is impossible. the other important thing is the fuel you use. pure gasoline 95 octane runs the richest, shell v power 95 e10 runs leaner and 91 e10 runs the leanest. i would recommend switching to 91 e10 if you are not already using it. a dyno with an AFR sensor was not existent in thailand but if you have one in malaysia it would be worth spending the money to give you a baseline AFR

[-=fusion=-]

Thinking a ncyr needle may suit my bike but having a hard time finding one in the UK

 

I've found a NCYP  Part no. 13383-35G00 from a RMZ450 2005-2007.

 

Do you know if that would worth a try?

 

Also found a NCYT Part no. 13383-35G80

and a NCVP  Part no. 13383-35G10

and a NCYU Part no. 13383-35G90

 

 

But can't find a NCYR

 

 

 

Edited May 29, 2017 by -=fusion=-

[bumtarder]

Just order one from any one of the big 4 Jap dealers,doesn't necessarily have to be from Suzuki.Here are some other valid part numbers for the ncyr to try;

Honda 16203-MEB-671

Kawasaki 16187-0190

Yamaha 5TA-14916-YR-00

Suzuki 13383-35G40

 

[Mustafa Labari]

Thanks. We run the same year for the drz. And Yes you are absolutely right I will bring it to dyno... (quite a lot here offering the service in KL) I need thisAFR chart. Currently running Vpower 95E10. My appreciation to all.

[30x26]

a basic dyno run only shows full throttle . for complete informations you need an advanced braked dyno and a lot of runs, at idle - 1/8 trottle - 1/4 throttle - 1/2 throttle - 3/4 throttle - full throttle.  then you need to repeat at least some  of them  to check the modifications.  with the same money you can buy a wideband device, reading afr in real time. with less money you can buy a kit that has already been tested (jd is the best one)

Edited May 30, 2017 by 30x26

[30x26]

Honda 16203-MEN-671 is the correct part number for ncyr

bumbtarder please correct your list.  google already has the story of "pilot air jet removal" into its memory :-)  

Edited June 5, 2017 by 30x26

[Mustafa Labari]

All friends, just to update you after many tests ... here is my final settings if it may help riders near the equator. I tried all above and I finished by buying the JD kit. But still had to play with main jet. Today settings is 155 main jet, 48 pilot and red needle from JD kit. And I am still running rich... did a spark plug test and is still a bit rich. No problem on power delivery in full band ... much better than last time when I used a 160 for the main. Thanks again to all the people that took the time to answer and share their knowledge, much appreciated.

[30x26]

48 pilot is wrong, you need 42 (maybe 40). follow the instructions coming with the kit!