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Rekluse Clutch Install

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I just installed a new Radius Rekluse clutch on my 2016 Beta 350RR. I'm having trouble adjusting the Free Play Gain so that I can use engine braking. Either I get too much free play or or not enough. I recently installed the same clutch on my KTM 530 and I can get the engine braking so I know it can be done. Any tips? should I use the heavier springs in the Rekluse disc pack?

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And if all else fails, a call to Rekluse might just solve your problem as they are happy to give good technical advice.

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Just a very slight turn of the clutch rod adjuster nut is all it takes. Heavier springs will give you less engine braking. For me I use the heaviest weights and lighter springs. Simply adjust idle for optimum engine braking. 

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It seems that rekluse sometimes needs an additional spacer for the clutch throw out bearing on Betas. I needed one to get the correct free play


I used what was exactly in the kit, works perfect in my 17' 250RR. Easy install. I did notice the rekluse throw out had more spacers than the stocker. What bike did you put yours on? Just curious

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9 hours ago, dyrtmon said:

And if all else fails, a call to Rekluse might just solve your problem as they are happy to give good technical advice.

The people at Rekluse are fantastic, just because you installed one on another manufacturer does not mean that the Beta should be exactly the same. I've called them a few times, they have great patience and are sooo helpful. As stated there are minor changes to their kits for the BETA bikes depending on its manufacturing date, and you "may" have an earlier manufactured kit. 

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Just a very slight turn of the clutch rod adjuster nut is all it takes. Heavier springs will give you less engine braking. For me I use the heaviest weights and lighter springs. Simply adjust idle for optimum engine braking. 


What bike are you running the heavy wedges in? I ran them in my yz250fx and felt like they made a huge improvement to responsiveness. In my 250rr I am using the stock wedges with the low rpm engagement springs and find it to be super snappy. Doesn't feel like it needs the heavy wedges. But I'm curious if you ran the stock wedges in yours first prior to switching, and bike this is in.

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It a brand new 350RR and used the stock wedges. The Clutch works well except that when I run down a hill it disengages and I free wheels. I will try a few things mentioned and give Rekluse a call tomorrow. I'll  update after the weekend as I'm setting up the suspension as well. Funny thing, according to Beta I should have 320mm static sag which is 12 1/2 inches LOL. I figure 4 inches is where I want to be.  

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7 minutes ago, riderRic said:

It a brand new 350RR and used the stock wedges. The Clutch works well except that when I run down a hill it disengages and I free wheels. I will try a few things mentioned and give Rekluse a call tomorrow. I'll  update after the weekend as I'm setting up the suspension as well. Funny thing, according to Beta I should have 320mm static sag which is 12 1/2 inches LOL. I figure 4 inches is where I want to be.  

Throttle blip will re engage Rekluse on downhills, its counter intuitive but you will forget about it really quick.

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I tried hitting the throttle and when the engine runs down it free wheeled. I tried messing with the free gain but again I couldn't get it where it worked.

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13 hours ago, riderRic said:

I tried hitting the throttle and when the engine runs down it free wheeled. I tried messing with the free gain but again I couldn't get it where it worked.

it will freewheel repeatedly depending on the size of the hill and how slow you are going. 

Are you saying that the throttle blip does not reengage at all or are you saying that it works but then later goes into freewheel again?

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My dealer installed my Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 before I took delivery of my '16 X-trainer and it worked well, maybe a little draggy but nothing I would complain about.  I blew out the slave o-ring and my dealer got a rebuild kit for me from Rekluse within a few days.  After rebuilding the slave cylinder I fought and fought with the clutch trying to get it to work the same way as it had, but it either drug or slipped no matter how I adjusted it.  The guys at Rekluse were super helpful and sent me a bunch of new parts, but it never really got the same feel it started with and I couldn't get just the right free play gain.  I had the same free wheeling feel down hills, and after about 6 rides it started slipping like crazy.  By chance I helped set up a KTM 350-SXF with the same kit and couldn't bleed the master cylinder, then I realized that the Midwest Mountain Engineering clutch lever was preloading the master cylinder and preventing proper bleeding.  That was my epiphany - I had the same problem on the Beta.  I backed off the adjuster on my lever leaving just a tiny bit of slack, and all has been good since. 

Long story short - I found that with a Rekluse you need slack at the clutch lever.  If your free play is way out of wack and you can't finely tune it, unload the clutch lever entirely and see if it helps.  Once I adjusted mine out I can tell the difference with even a few ticks of an adjustment of the slave cylinder.

Edited by benJAZDirtRider
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Talked with Rekluse and they agreed that best thing to do is blip the throttle. If still not engaging then try raising the idle. They explained that the centrifugal clutch shouldn't have engine idling. So when I went riding it was easy enough to hit the throttle a bit when rolling down hill. For the most part it worked. Only sometimes when braking the clutch disengages. Looks like I'll have to get use to this. Funny thing though this rarely happened on by old KTM 450 and it hasn't happen on the KTM 530.

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The heavier wedges will keep the clutch engaged longer (to lower revs). I recommend that mod.

These posts on my bike build thread might help you too:

Hope that helps!

 

Edited by Arctra

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