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2003 kx250 midvalve

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Trying to get to midvalve but dont know how to get damping rod out. Looks like there should be a circlip on rod to remove. Or do I remove spring seat? 

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You have to heat the spring seat to crazy temps to break the thread lock

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Its an awful job no matter which way you go.  On mine I opted to remove the mid from inside the cartridge without disassembling the cap.  Removal and reassembly are difficult if you go that way but it can be done.  I've done two sets of these that way.

What I wonder about is if you could chop that crimped on stopper ring off of the damper rod and install one like they used on all of their other open cartridge fork with the split rings.  Seems like it could work with some modification.

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Map gas woukd probably do it fast, I don't have any and it took till the oil was smoking to break the thread lock

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Turbo dan, the split rings is a good idea. As long as i can find a match with the damping rod diameter then probably increase the inside diameter of the spring seat to allow for clearance of split ring. Might even help with bottoming resistance.

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You would be getting very close to the design of the bladder fork at that point, which mounts a hydraulic bottoming cone over the split rings to hold it all in place.  There is a corresponding bottoming cup in the cartridge cap.  Might be worth just picking up a set of them since they're dirt cheap.  I recently got a set off of an 04 RMZ for $115 USD shipped to my door. 

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I think my wr250 forks have that same crimp. Anyone knows what there is under that crimp?

 

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