plugeye

92 DR350SE

67 posts in this topic

One wasn't enough, you had to go buy another one?  The guy I bought my DR-350SE from had three of them in his garage.  His own ride, which looked a lot like yours (assuming that the one with the bigger gas tank on it is yours) and two close to stock bikes.  He had advertised both of the "close to stock" bikes on Craig's list, but withdrew the 1997 model when he discovered it needed steering head bearings.  I wanted the very last model available anyway so I bought the 1999 bike. 4000 miles, new tires, very new looking drive chain and sprockets.  He had a fourth DR-350 in the garage that he was building out into a big bore 440.  I think this one was a dirt model.

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yeah, he's ate-up like i am with these dang bikes haha.

i saw when he posted about those bikes. how about some pics in "lets see your DR"?

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12 hours ago, plugeye said:

yeah, he's ate-up like i am with these dang bikes haha.

i saw when he posted about those bikes. how about some pics in "lets see your DR"?

I'll pull it out of the garage and take some pictures this weekend.

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35251348871_c496eb2f32_c.jpg

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in the meantime waiting for some parts, straightened a couple bent brake levers & rebuilt the BST33

 

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35341510596_28f6962c0b_c.jpg

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rear end service

 

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one bearing is shot. looks like it was neglected

 

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Thanks for showing the rear suspension components.  I need to replace the lowering links on my bike with the originals.  I just may take the whole thing a part like you did to check out and lube the linkage and swing arm bearings.

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35214450892_25fb28ac2d_c.jpg

choosing replacements

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this one has 2 good needle bearings. pressed in new shock bearing.

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sealed & lubed. reassembled & swapped the 14t to a 15t.
replaced the front brake components & rebuilt the m/c, now i can ride it with an operational f-brake.

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9 hours ago, GlennRay said:

You took four of them apart at one time?

from past tear-downs & leftovers

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rides fair enough except for clutch drag & low end bog
next on the list:
carb inspection
swap airbox & filter
chain service
plug inspection
add a speedometer

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Did you do a rebuild on the rear suspension? I have a leaking seal head on mine (92 Dr350s) and cannot find any rebuild kits for the rear suspension.  Any help would be most appreciated.  Looks like a fun project!

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On 7/15/2017 at 1:36 PM, Samchez Gunteras said:

Did you do a rebuild on the rear suspension? I have a leaking seal head on mine (92 Dr350s) and cannot find any rebuild kits for the rear suspension.  Any help would be most appreciated.  Looks like a fun project!

just all the joints, not the shock

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35127175143_e2173d637e_b.jpg

brother DR bearing silent witness to clutch surgery

 

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plenty of replacements.
installed new clutch thrust washers (should have done it the 1st time)
and a different clutch pack.
much improved.

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ghetto instrument mounting, intended for temporary evaluation

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On 6/19/2017 at 6:16 AM, plugeye said:

35341510596_28f6962c0b_c.jpg

35341508406_281f8d58df_b.jpg

rear end service

 

35214451182_ebd7547df9_c.jpg

35214451422_89521f5235_c.jpg

one bearing is shot. looks like it was neglected

 

Plugeye, I have reached the point where I have removed the chain guard and guide assemblies as required to get the chain off of the rear sprocket, and I have removed the rear wheel.  The shop manual says to remove a chain roller next.  I can't make out from the picture in the manual where the roller is and why I need to remove it.  Advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Glenn

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8 hours ago, GlennRay said:

Plugeye, I have reached the point where I have removed the chain guard and guide assemblies as required to get the chain off of the rear sprocket, and I have removed the rear wheel.  The shop manual says to remove a chain roller next.  I can't make out from the picture in the manual where the roller is and why I need to remove it.  Advice will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Glenn

its directly below the shock canister adjustment screw seen here. you can just make out part of the roller.

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Posted (edited)

13 hours ago, plugeye said:

34755245071_0e894c399c_b.jpg

its directly below the shock canister adjustment screw seen here. you can just make out part of the roller.

Okay, thanks.  I need to get my eyes checked!  Is that an aftermarket shift lever on you bike?  if so, is it better/stronger than the stock one?  Mine shows signs of having been bent once.

Edited by GlennRay

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2 hours ago, GlennRay said:

Okay, thanks.  I need to get my eyes checked!  Is that an aftermarket shift lever on you bike?  if so, is it better/stronger than the stock one?  Mine shows signs of having been bent once.

Two steps  forward and now I can't get the top shock bolt out of the frame.  It is loose and moves freely when I support the swing arm with my other hand, but there does not seem to be room to remove the bolt all the way due to the air intake boot being in the way.  The shop manual makes no mention of having to remove this.  In your vast experience what is the correct way to proceed from here.  I'd rather not take the air boot off, but I will if that is required.

Thanks again,

Glenn

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8 hours ago, GlennRay said:

Two steps  forward and now I can't get the top shock bolt out of the frame.  It is loose and moves freely when I support the swing arm with my other hand, but there does not seem to be room to remove the bolt all the way due to the air intake boot being in the way.  The shop manual makes no mention of having to remove this.  In your vast experience what is the correct way to proceed from here.  I'd rather not take the air boot off, but I will if that is required.

Thanks again,

Glenn

i think you need to flex some cables or flex the boot to slide it out. there is just enough space to do this.

 

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