plugeye

92 DR350SE

67 posts in this topic

10 hours ago, GlennRay said:

Okay, thanks.  I need to get my eyes checked!  Is that an aftermarket shift lever on you bike?  if so, is it better/stronger than the stock one?  Mine shows signs of having been bent once.

yes AM, not sure if its any better than stock

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35926816576_469472c1e4_b.jpg

i'm giving the 94 a break & riding the 92 for a couple weeks to evaluate. so far, a smooth machine.

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11 hours ago, plugeye said:

35926816576_469472c1e4_b.jpg

i'm giving the 94 a break & riding the 92 for a couple weeks to evaluate. so far, a smooth machine.

Looking good Plugeye.  You were right about the wiring harness getting in the way of removing the top shock bolt.  I had to undo three zip ties and the thing (CDI box??) that sits on top of the air box to get enough slack in the wiring harness to get the bolt out and then it was just barely.  I can't wait to put that back in.  Pulled the chain roller out that you pointed out to me.  Now I understand why that had to be removed.  I got the "lower cushion" bolt out with no trouble and it had a nice coating of grease on it.  I would have pulled the swing arm bolt tonight, but I discovered that my 22mm socket is awol.  So far, every bolt or axle that should have had grease has had grease.  I would feel like I am on a fools errand except for the fact that what I am really doing is replacing the POs lowering links.  I figured as long as I was going to have to go this far, I might as well make sure the linkage bearings are well greased also.  Thanks for all of the help and guidance.  Does the '92 SE have rim locks?  My '99 does not, although there are holes in the rims that have grommets installed in them that look like they would be where rim locks should go.

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8 hours ago, GlennRay said:

Looking good Plugeye.  You were right about the wiring harness getting in the way of removing the top shock bolt.  I had to undo three zip ties and the thing (CDI box??) that sits on top of the air box to get enough slack in the wiring harness to get the bolt out and then it was just barely.  I can't wait to put that back in.  Pulled the chain roller out that you pointed out to me.  Now I understand why that had to be removed.  I got the "lower cushion" bolt out with no trouble and it had a nice coating of grease on it.  I would have pulled the swing arm bolt tonight, but I discovered that my 22mm socket is awol.  So far, every bolt or axle that should have had grease has had grease.  I would feel like I am on a fools errand except for the fact that what I am really doing is replacing the POs lowering links.  I figured as long as I was going to have to go this far, I might as well make sure the linkage bearings are well greased also.  Thanks for all of the help and guidance.  Does the '92 SE have rim locks?  My '99 does not, although there are holes in the rims that have grommets installed in them that look like they would be where rim locks should go.

in my exp, good peace of mind to inspect all the moving stuff.

i dont think it has rimlocks

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Great thread so far plugeye. Thanks for posting

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On 7/19/2017 at 8:47 AM, plugeye said:

35926816576_469472c1e4_b.jpg

i'm giving the 94 a break & riding the 92 for a couple weeks to evaluate. so far, a smooth machine.

Plugeye,

The Suzuki manual says that the standard rear spring length is 10.6", with a softer setting of 10.8" and a stiffer setting of 10.3".  My bike, 1999 DR-350SE with the lowering links installed has the rear spring set at 10" at the moment.  I am putting the stock links back on the bike and I am wondering if I should put the rear spring back to the standard recommended 10.6" until I get a chance to ride it with the standard suspension geometry?

Thanks,

Glenn

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15 hours ago, GlennRay said:

Plugeye,

The Suzuki manual says that the standard rear spring length is 10.6", with a softer setting of 10.8" and a stiffer setting of 10.3".  My bike, 1999 DR-350SE with the lowering links installed has the rear spring set at 10" at the moment.  I am putting the stock links back on the bike and I am wondering if I should put the rear spring back to the standard recommended 10.6" until I get a chance to ride it with the standard suspension geometry?

Thanks,

Glenn

it might be best to return it to a stock setting and then go from there

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14 hours ago, plugeye said:

it might be best to return it to a stock setting and then go from there

Thats what I was thinking, I guess I just wanted a second opinion.  Thanks!

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35733007163_1174d97a0f_b.jpg

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quick update: swapped a dirt rear bar & cash for pillion pegs. The old community x-ring chain replaced a worn chain. SE rear bar from cheap big box of parts. Next up will be handlebars & grips. F-caliper needs attention, carb is loading up & got an oil drip to track down.

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Posted (edited)

On 8/17/2017 at 7:57 AM, plugeye said:

35733007163_1174d97a0f_b.jpg

36404440891_ed3f8f4e6f_b.jpg

quick update: swapped a dirt rear bar & cash for pillion pegs. The old community x-ring chain replaced a worn chain. SE rear bar from cheap big box of parts. Next up will be handlebars & grips. F-caliper needs attention, carb is loading up & got an oil drip to track down.

Do you remove the front forks and drain them upside down over night before you refill them?  My next question is going to be about a chain anyway so I might as well get it here also.  Any reason that I can't run a chain with a clip master link, like every other chain I have run on MX, Trials, dirt bikes and street bikes?

Edited by GlennRay

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7 hours ago, GlennRay said:

Do you remove the front forks and drain them upside down over night before you refill them?  My next question is going to be about a chain anyway so I might as well get it here also.  Any reason that I can't run a chain with a clip master link, like every other chain I have run on MX, Trials, dirt bikes and street bikes?

yes upside down, operate the forks several times as well.

i always use clip master links, unless you have a powerful multi-cylinder street machine.

 

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41 minutes ago, plugeye said:

yes upside down, operate the forks several times as well.

i always use clip master links, unless you have a powerful multi-cylinder street machine.

 

Thanks Plugeye,  I have the shop manual but I thought I would get a second opinion before I take the bike apart.  I have never serviced a cartridge type fork before.  All of the ones I have done were the older dampener rod types.

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35 minutes ago, GlennRay said:

Thanks Plugeye,  I have the shop manual but I thought I would get a second opinion before I take the bike apart.  I have never serviced a cartridge type fork before.  All of the ones I have done were the older dampener rod types.

this one is a damper type, but the cartridge type drains the same

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Posted (edited)

7 hours ago, plugeye said:

this one is a damper type, but the cartridge type drains the same

All of my old Yamaha's had drain plugs at the bottom of the fork leg.  You could change the fork oil with out removing the front wheel or forks.  Anyway, I did get the job done, thanks to your help.  BTW, what is that seat cover you have on your SE?

Edited by GlennRay

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its a Coleman ATV padded seat cover. makes the stock seat a little more bearable, but not much.

 

 

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36007447174_1144b5c5bd_c.jpg

pinpointed the oil drip to the output shaft seal, replaced it.
new pads appear to have fixed the f-brake performance & noise.

 

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12 hours ago, plugeye said:

36671231152_87ecbf48bd_b.jpg

CR-hi's on 1" blocks & pro grips

My DR has riser's that tall or taller.  What kind of handlebar did you use?

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On 9/11/2017 at 5:48 AM, plugeye said:

36007447174_1144b5c5bd_c.jpg

pinpointed the oil drip to the output shaft seal, replaced it.
new pads appear to have fixed the f-brake performance & noise.

 

How did you pull the seal?  I know I have done this before without splitting the case or even taking the engine out of the frame, but I can't remember how I got the seal out.

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