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YZ250FX 2015 vs 2017

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I have the 2015 YZ250FX. I'm short and ride very technical trails all winter and in the summer/fall the track is my only option here in SoCal. 

I installed a lowered seat and a DeVol lowering link on my current bike and I really enjoy the set up. Its now just a tiny bit taller than my riding partners 2016 KTM 450XC-F, which still pisses me off haha. Obviously I'm starting to do jumps a bit more as I'm on the track and as I'm improving  I'm riding the bike harder and utilizing more of the suspension and and power. 

I feel the next step is to pull the lowering link off, and purchase a lowered sub frame from JGR and maybe do the Yamaha tuner. The lowered subframe is $500 + labor. Tuner is, you know. 

 I paid $6000 for the bike, and I have 17 hours on it. Should I spend this next $750-$1,000 on the lowered sub frame and the tuner on the 2015, or should I sell it and upgrade to the 2017 bike? I imagine I can pick up a 2017 for $7500-8000 as soon as the 2018 bikes are released... 

Edited by 7raptor

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Id honestly leave the bike as is and just keep riding it if you're enjoying it. With only 17 hours I don't see the point of selling for a 17' model. Get the tuner and play with that. And keep an eye out to see if any redesigns come with the 18's.

 

 

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2 minutes ago, 7raptor said:

Isn't the 17 supposed to be way improved, or is that all BS?

It's not all BS, but the increases are minimal and for most wouldn't be noticeable... 

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On 5/30/2017 at 10:27 PM, NW_drZ said:

Id honestly leave the bike as is and just keep riding it if you're enjoying it. With only 17 hours I don't see the point of selling for a 17' model. Get the tuner and play with that. And keep an eye out to see if any redesigns come with the 18's.

 

 

Is the tuner the same ecu tuner as the 250F? My mechanic has the 250 ecu for all his race clients. 

Edited by 7raptor

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7 hours ago, NW_drZ said:

Ya it's the same. The gytr power tuner

And the magic map is called the "Dirt Bike Magazine" setup?

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And the magic map is called the "Dirt Bike Magazine" setup?


Not sure about that map. I tried a bunch and settled on the DBT map, liked the low end grunt it gave mine. Ran that for the majority of the time I owned the bike. The hard hitting was good for faster type stuff as well.

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On 5/30/2017 at 9:44 PM, 7raptor said:

I have the 2015 YZ250FX. I'm short and ride very technical trails all winter and in the summer/fall the track is my only option here in SoCal. 

I installed a lowered seat and a DeVol lowering link on my current bike and I really enjoy the set up. Its now just a tiny bit taller than my riding partners 2016 KTM 450XC-F, which still pisses me off haha. Obviously I'm starting to do jumps a bit more as I'm on the track and as I'm improving  I'm riding the bike harder and utilizing more of the suspension and and power. 

I feel the next step is to pull the lowering link off, and purchase a lowered sub frame from JGR and maybe do the Yamaha tuner. The lowered subframe is $500 + labor. Tuner is, you know. 

 I paid $6000 for the bike, and I have 17 hours on it. Should I spend this next $750-$1,000 on the lowered sub frame and the tuner on the 2015, or should I sell it and upgrade to the 2017 bike? I imagine I can pick up a 2017 for $7500-8000 as soon as the 2018 bikes are released... 

If the height is working for you now, why pull the link off? Seems like that's just throwing money at a problem that's already solved. Lowering link, internal lowering, lowered subframe are all effectively doing the same thing just in different ways with slightly different results. Unless you're unhappy with it I don't see a reason to do something else.

I run the PC link and it works great. Not because I need it lower (I'm 6'-2") but because the bike handles drastically better with the rear lowered. 

I say just load your map of choice on it with the tuner and RIDE! I prefer the hard hitting map for my type of riding. DBM map is good too.

Edited by Kosmic

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Changing out lowering link for lowered subframe and stock link will allow me to jump. Lowering link is not for jumping. 

Is the hard hitting map a Yamaha map?

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23 minutes ago, 7raptor said:

Changing out lowering link for lowered subframe and stock link will allow me to jump. Lowering link is not for jumping. 

Is the hard hitting map a Yamaha map?

Wut? You can't jump with a lowering link? 

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All buying a 17 will do is make your wallet 3-4k lighter. Worse that happens jumping with a lowering link is that the rear tire might rub the rear fender when bottomed. Doubtful unless it was lowered a bunch.

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I have both the 2015 and the 2017 250FX's.   I am shocked at how few hits I am getting for my 2015 bike that I have for sale on Craigs list.   Seems like KTM's are easier to sell.  Anyway, forget the expensive subframe.  If you are short (like me),  go back to the stock link and get your forks and shock lowered 1" by a professional suspension tuner with different springs that match your weight better.  Cost me about $850 to do it total, which included a minor revalve.   If you ride technical single track being able to dab at the appropriate time is important (at least to me).  Lowering your suspension will make your bike much more fun to ride as you won't be struggling to be able to touch the ground when necessary.   I've been riding a while and have had my last three bikes professionally lowered.  It makes a HUGE difference in the fun factor.   BTW, the 2017FX is noticeably more powerful than the 2015, especially in lower rpms where I spend most of my time on my bike.   Not even close to a 350 kind of thing, but noticeable.  It has a slightly louder exhaust tone due to the bigger head pipe.   If you guys know of someone in the NW who wants to buy a 2015FX (with brand new 2017 forks, shock and wheels/tires), mine has 147 hours but is in impeccable condition! 

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2 hours ago, 7raptor said:

you ain't supposed to

I suppose there is some truth to that if you're using the Devolo Lowering Link. It's more of an aggressive drop than the PC link, and similar others. Are you bottoming out enough to hit the rear fender? If not then it's of no consequence. 

**The DeVol Lowering Linkage is not recommended for aggressive riders or jumping. If you need a linkage to enhance the performance of your bike's suspension, the DeVol Transformer Pull-Rod is exactly what you are looking for.**

My question, how would lowering with a link be any different than lowering the subframe regarding rear fender clearance. You're still losing an inch of clearance either way. 

 

Edited by Kosmic
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2 hours ago, Kosmic said:

I suppose there is some truth to that if you're using the Devolo Lowering Link. It's more of an aggressive drop than the PC link, and similar others. Are you bottoming out enough to hit the rear fender? If not then it's of no consequence. 

**The DeVol Lowering Linkage is not recommended for aggressive riders or jumping. If you need a linkage to enhance the performance of your bike's suspension, the DeVol Transformer Pull-Rod is exactly what you are looking for.**

My question, how would lowering with a link be any different than lowering the subframe regarding rear fender clearance. You're still losing an inch of clearance either way. 

 

I don't know the technical answer, but if there was no difference, every racer 5'9" and shorter would use a lowering link, so the subframe/suspension drop must be superior. I imagine the suspension drop is the best because it doesn't change the steering geometry?

Edited by 7raptor

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Not the same application by I tried a first generation Yamalink 1.5" link on my YZ125 when first getting back into MX a few years ago (I' m 5'8").

After many attempts in fine tuning it ended in frustration, went back to stock and learned to live with the high seat height.

 

Indeed that type of 1st generation link drastically changed the leverage ratio of the rear suspension,

despite trying every possible external adjustment: preload/sag, clickers, 1-2 stiffer spring rate 

handling wise it did corner well but the rear tire bottomed out in the fender on relatively small jumps.

(I'm 160lbs and at the time riding at novice skill level at best)

 

Perhaps too drastic of a geometry change and, aimed more for beginners or lighter riders (that won't push the suspension too hard)

newer links seem better designed and with moderate height 'gains' in mind.  

 

Oppositely the Kouba CRF2 link on my CRF250X (5/8" drop) is fine for trail riding, no jumping so no above mentioned issues to report.

Any added plushness from an increase in leverage is actually welcomed in my application. (slow trail & rock crawling)

Edited by mlatour

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15 hours ago, Enduro R Rider said:

If I remember right, the JGR sub frame only lowers the height about 1/2"? Thats a lot of money to get 1/2".

They claim 1"?

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