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2005 RMZ 250 hard to start SOLVED. (HOW TO START)

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I recently bought a 2005 Rmz 250 for $1850. The bike's in great shape all stock. When i went to buy it and test ride it he had it firing first kick. I loved it, so i bought it. When i got it home i could not start easily:banghead::smashpc:. It took at least a minute of kicking (which is ridiculous coming from a 2 stroke), but it was very easy to bump start. About a week later i was messing around with it and i got it to fire between 1-3 kicks. What you do is slowly kick through until you feel a little click (TDC) then slowly go roughly half way down until you feel a sorta soft spot. Come up and kick all the way through and it should start from 1-6 kicks which is a HUGE improvement from from kicking and kicking until it would start.

Hope it helps. I couldn't find any forums explaining hoe to start a 04-06 rmz 250.

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Sounds like Intake valves to me. 

Only two bolts and two engine caps to measure.

The spark happens on a down stroke. Not that it matters to you. If it starts it starts. But you should be able to start at TDC. 

What are your valves specs? Any work ever done in the head? Stock valves?

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I cannot get it started at TDC. I have to go half way down. Valves are in spec recently adjusted. Intake valves were at .004 on both. No work done to the head.

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.04 is on the side of too tight tho

i just recently revalved my brothers 2010 because the valves were wasted, same issue as you.  Impossible to kickstart but would bump start all day

finally it wasn't idling the way it should be so we tore it down and sure enough, the intake valves were cooked

new valves, new seats and were firing again

 

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When you say cooked valves what d

On 6/2/2017 at 8:32 AM, loosechange19 said:

.04 is on the side of too tight tho

i just recently revalved my brothers 2010 because the valves were wasted, same issue as you.  Impossible to kickstart but would bump start all day

finally it wasn't idling the way it should be so we tore it down and sure enough, the intake valves were cooked

new valves, new seats and were firing again

 

This sounds like a problem I'm having how do I know if my valve stems are trashed? The buckets seem to stick when removing them. Is that a sign i need new buckets??

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The rim of the valve head on mine was cut down, so it had less area to seal around on the seat.  

Buy new valves and compare them to what you have now and you'll see what i'm talking about

i bought a shim kit, new valves and seals and shimmed it a little on the loose side, knowing it would tighten up

The buckets were hard to get out of the head for me, i used a small magnet and they came right out.  Don't buy new buckets, clean steel wool and install 

Bike runs so much better now and is much easier to start.

I used to hate even having to bring this bike to the track, bump starting it kills your energy before you even made it onto the track

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Yea bikes hard to start and a ticking noise in the top end I thought was the valves out of clearance but I just reshimmed the problem valve everything is in spec now so I don't know where the ticking noise is coming from. Did yours tick? Or if they got any worse could they have? Really not trying to take the engine out but I don't know what else it could be

 

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Yea I've done that just sounds like a jack hammer inside my engine. I'm thinking I bent a valve. Can a single valve be replaced or is it 4 at once? Do spring and all have to be new or are any of the other components ever salvageable?

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Just removed valves nothing is broken or bent springs are fine really don't think my hard start or tick is valve related, starting my own thread with pics and video of some cam journal wear and bent c clamp seems to be the culprit

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