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How to remove carburetor 2012 KTM 150 XC


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Hello everyone,

 

  •     I picked up a 2012 KTM 150 XC the other day. The bike ran briefly when I picked it up (the seller said the bike had been sitting for about 14 months and that the carb would most likely need some TLC).

 

  •    The owners manual does not give instructions on how to remove the carb. I tried to do the "loosen the intake clamps and rotate the carb" trick to gain access to the bottom of the carb, but on mine you can not do that. You can not rotate it enough because the throttle cable hits part of the chassis.

 

  •    Even so, I think it would be better to pull the entire carb off to tear it down and do a thorough cleaning. I tried googling repair manuals for the bike. I found a PDF which seems to have some instructions, though the quality of the PDF is not great so I can not see specific details in the pictures.

 

  •    It just says you need to remove the seat and gas tank to be able to pull the carb. Is this true? I saw a old write up from 2009 on a 150 and the guy said you had to do ALOT to pull the carb (You had to pull the rear shock, amongst other things).

 

  •    I have no experience with carbs at all, but I have watched a lot of videos. I think if I took my time I could disassemble it, clean, and put back together. My REAL question so far is how to get the darn thing off. Can anyone tell me if all you have to do is pull the gas tank and seat to get this thing off? I wanted to get some input before I start tearing this thing apart.

 

P.S. I have done a lot of searches but there does not seem to be much info on the 150 XC.

 

Thanks for your time.

   

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The easiest way for me, is to remove the tank, the seat, the silencer, remove the 2 bottom sub-frame bolts on both sides of the bike and just loosen the top 2, then loosen the clamp on the airbox boot and the sub-frame can be rotated up to give access.frame.jpg.d57a87ab96ff85c00453c01bf1fa9d92.jpg

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Thanks a lot for your response. I did this and was able to easily gain access to the carb. This is the first time I have ever taken apart a carb. I got the jets cleaned up. This carb has so much crap in the bowl.

I re-installed and tried to start the bike. No good.... I was kicking it but nothing. Also, kicking a bike that doesn't want to start sucks really hurts your foot (all my bikes have been electric start except for my RT 100 and TTR 125 way back in the day).

I tried to push start it. You can not roll the bike in first gear with the clutch pulled in. Is that a dirtbike thing? Because I can roll my fiancés KLX 110L in gear and my sportbike.

I have never had a bike not roll in gear while clutch is in (but I have never had a full size dirtbike.) wasn't sure if they were different for some reason.

Anyways, I tried push starting it. First time couldn't get it going.

Second time I hauled ass in neutral, jumped on threw it in 1st and got it going. Real boggy at first but then she woke up.

Rode around the block and it felt good. Very smooth and strong. Holy crap these gears are so short (granted I'm used to my other Bikes).

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Well.....  I took everything back apart because it seemed the float was sticking. Put it back together and it still will not kick start. The only way I can get it started is push start (no choke and using throttle). It will not push start with the choke out.

Once it was running seemed to be ok (though I do not know 2-strokes well, so I am not as attuned to their sounds and what is healthy or not. It doesn't bog when I twist the throttle while it is idling and seems to idle fine (I have the idle screw the exact same as what it was prior to disassembly of the carb.. Once I get it warmed up from the push start, I am able to kick start it first kick.

Anyone have any suggestions? This bike sat for 14 months prior to me getting it. I have not checked the spark plug and I am too tired to mess around with it anymore. 

I will probably go ahead and just replace it. Do these symptoms sound like a bad plug?

 

Thanks.

 

 

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If the bike has sat for 14 months, the first things I would have done are clean the carb, flush out any fuel, and replace the spark plug.....so yea, replace the spark plug with a new one.

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Spark plug is the easiest part to replace and cheapest on a dirt bike. Start with that. If that doesnt do anything then obviously you have to look elsewhere. Make sure carb is 100%. Id just get a rebuild kit, or jd jet kit and new needle and seat., also check reeds and compression. Also If it was sitting for 14 months id check all wire connections for peace of mind. Check all bearings and put some fresh grease in them. steering neck bearings, wheel bearings linkage swing arm.  

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Thanks for everyone's input. 

The previous owner had the bike in storage for 14 months. They recently took it out of storage (about a week or so ago) and flushed the fuel. It has VP small engines 40:1 pre-mix fuel in it right now.

I am going to go ahead and replace the spark plug. I need to run by the store to pick some up. I will look up how to grease the bearings you are referring to (steering, wheel, swing arm).

I downloaded the service manual online but the quality of the pictures is pretty poor. I may just try and order one from somewhere but so far have not found anyone that sells one. I may just order from a KTM dealership.

I am going to go ahead and replace the gear oil (though the manual has it using just motorex top speed 4T 15W50 engine oil. I thought that was kind of odd (as opposed to using gear oil).

 

 

 

 

 

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You can use gear oil in there. I usually run 80/85 either the red honda bottle or bel ray gear saver usually the shops have at least of those on the shelf. Im sure other companies offer it as well. I know some guys run atf as well with good luck. I have used both brands in my current ktm and all my previous two strokes.

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You can use gear oil in there. I usually run 80/85 either the red honda bottle or bel ray gear saver usually the shops have at least of those on the shelf. Im sure other companies offer it as well. I know some guys run atf as well with good luck. I have used both brands in my current ktm and all my previous two strokes.



Interesting. Wonder what the difference is between using gear oil and engine oil and which one would be better.

To me gear oil would make logical sense, because you are lubricating gears.







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4 hours ago, ak47bravo said:

 

 


Interesting. Wonder what the difference is between using gear oil and engine oil and which one would be better.

To me gear oil would make logical sense, because you are lubricating gears.






 

 

 

And the clutch

 

FWIW I have used Bel Ray gear saver for years, I abuse my clutch and still get a lot of life out of it.

Edited by poldies4
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Spark plug first as others pointed out. Not sure by reading your posts, but even in the summer I use the choke to start if the bike sat for more than a day or so. Will always start 1st or 2nd kick, then choke off after 10/15 seconds. When warm it should start with just a stab at the kickstarter (no choke).

I wouldn't be concerned with the clutch dragging a little with the engine off and in gear.

I wouldn't get overly concerned about gearbox oil either. Everyone with a 2T has a preference and I've yet to see any I disagree with. I run Rotella 15w/40 non synthetic at about $13 a gallon from Walmart in the gearbox. Shifting is smooth. Dimensionally Inspected the clutch at 194 hours. Still in great shape.

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