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17 300 battery voltage over 17 volts

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Hey guys, i was wondering why my voltage level was blinking all the time on the display and the numbers on the display are all screwed up. By that i meant half the display information is missing.

 

so i decided to check the voltage. And when its running im getting 17.5 volts.

anyone have that issue? 

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I can only speak to what I understand from the reading I've done. The beta stator is 2 windings. An AC for ignition, DC for charging. Both are not high output. I think the DC is 30w max or so. So a voltage spike at that peak power is would not concern me. I've never thought to check that, too busy riding...

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i have had exactly the same problem mine was going up to 19 volts when you revved it i only found out because i fitted a lithium battery and it burnt it out also explains why my oil pump packed up on the third ride seems the votage regulator is a worldwide problem but beta are denying it,i love the bike its a 2017 300rr but its only done 30 hrs and with the float height problems then the oil pump which luckily i noticed the feedpipe was empty so i removed the tank and now premix and now the charging problem this bike is trying my patience

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I talked to my beta dealer last night. They are the warehouse for canada. He is overnighting me a regulator. But by the looks of it most likely will happen again.

Riding with a high voltage like that will kill my battery. And the speedo is acting really weird.

They have to address this.

 

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My 2017 300rr was having blinking speedo, failed oil injection (literally no oil at all), and a battery that you could hear boiling after shutting down and blown headlight bulb. It had 17.5 volts when running. This was at 25 hours. Dealer repaired under warranty and done a good job with quick turnaround. Found cause was severely corroded diodes and capacitor. The heatshrink surrounding the diodes and capacitor has no chance at all of keeping out moisture and or corrosion out. In my honest opinion the electrics on these bikes is horrendous.  Running an oil injection system with an ecu these machines are going to fail with electrics with such poor quality. Really makes you appreciate how much better quality Jap bikes are.

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hi voiltan when you fit the new voltage regulator make sure you check the voltage again because i fitted a new regualtor and the problem was still there ended up taking the bike back to the supplying dealer to sort out unfortunately in the uk its a months warranty then your on own my first and definately last beta 

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I've had issues with my beta. Clock started to randomly come off and on in the garage at 10 hours, started recording more hours sat in the garage! Some connectors/ wiring that were in the air box had corroded, replaced under warranty. The battery was draining and I had to kick the bike over a few times on rides due to a dead battery. I need to replace the speedo cable and magnet in the caliper now as that randomly decides to work now and again. I've removed the oil injection system because of the poor electrical system, no spooge out of the end can now, had a lot when the system was on the bike. 

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What ended up being your problem?

i have 2 regulators and a diode pack coming my way.

2 hours ago, adamsavage said:

hi voiltan when you fit the new voltage regulator make sure you check the voltage again because i fitted a new regualtor and the problem was still there ended up taking the bike back to the supplying dealer to sort out unfortunately in the uk its a months warranty then your on own my first and definately last beta 

 

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the dealer was very vague with an explanation the bike is still there i left it with him 3 weeks ago im going to pick it up on saturday on my way to a race but before i take it im going to check the voltage with my meter.good luck with your bike.

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Tks, i will post what i find to be the issue. 3 weeks is a bit much. Please post what your issue was. It could help out a few people.

 

 

i found the capacitor to be broken. Not sure yet if that has anything to do with it

51856926601__D8F25E17-2B29-488F-AEC6-61BDCCF2C84F.JPG

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hi volitan yes i will do that i want to know what the problem was as well,and the only reason i left the bike there is the 5 hour round journey and its only an extra hour on the way to the race on sunday but yeh no problem i will post what was up

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Replaced the regulator and the voltage is back to normal.

The battery voltage level was flashing in the speedo. Now its not. Seems to be an indication of over charging

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picked the bike up today apparently the problem was there is a diode or capacitor the answer was vague from the dealer behind the left side number board if you take the air filter cover off undo a bolt and you can peel the cover back although its just as quick to take the rear mudguard off complete and also its a proper dirt trap on both sides.the dealer said fitting the race wiring loom does away with those parts so for me if I keep the bike that's the way forward for me.oh and beta uk still deny the overcharging problem....

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The 4700uF capacitor and diode group was ostensibly added to the wiring harnesses of the oil injected bikes to smooth out the typical voltage variances inherent to stator/CDI bikes.  I'm pretty sure that any race loom that removes them will also require removing the oil injection system.  (If they weren't needed you could run without them now.)

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to check it for overcharging use a multi meter set it to volts and check the bike on tickover and slowly build the revs should go no higher than low 14 volts if your not sure how to do it any bike or car garage can check this for takes no more than 2 minutes

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I have also experienced an overcharging situation with mine.I have a 2015 300RR race edition that I purchased used over the winter with 180 miles on it. Before taking it out on its first ride, I installed a Shorai Lithium battery. About 45 minutes into the Ride, I noticed a burning smell and stopped to find smoke pouring out from under the seat. I quickly removed the seat to find the Battery smoking and melting (Thank goodness for the quick release seat on these Betas). I  basically ripped the battery out of the bike as I was afraid it would catch the bike and the surrounding forest on fire. I was able to get it free from the bike before any damage was done. Surprisingly, the bike started right up with the kick starter and ran perfectly normal all the way back to the truck with no battery installed in it.  When I got home, I placed the stock battery back into the bike and tested voltage through various RPM's and it never went above 15volts. At this point I was sure that I got ahold of a defective battery so I contacted Shorai. They were quick to respond and offer a replacement battery free of charge. I was not interested in installing another Lithium battery because I was a little bit freaked out by the whole Experience of nearly watching my New beta burn the forest down so I asked for a refund instead. I had a couple of phone conversations with the Nice folks in the Shorai customer service department as they had me take a series of voltage readings to ensure the bike was not the cause of the Battery melting. They even offered to pay for me to take the Bike into a dealer and have it looked at to make sure there weren't any issues with the bike overcharging the battery. I didn't have time to take the bike to a dealer due to a rapidly approaching trip to Moab so I declined their offer. They sent me a prepaid label to return the charger for the battery and issued me a full refund for the battery and the charger. A couple of weeks later, after several days and hundreds of miles of riding in Moab, I suddenly lost my E-start, lights and horn in the middle of a ride. When I returned to camp, I put a multi-meter on the battery and found that it was completely dead (2 volts). With the meter still connected to the battery leads I started the bike and the meter showed 18 volts, when the bike was revved up it climbed to 30 volts. An online search turned up a couple of threads on Beta Overcharging issues including this one. I came to the conclusion that it must be a bad voltage regulator. I finished out the last few days of our trip with no other issues from the bike (except having to kick start the bike)

When I got home to Colorado I contacted both beta dealers in the state only to find that the voltage regulators are on National backorder with no estimated date for when they will be back in stock. No  surprise as I have had a cooling fan kit on order for the bike for about 6 months now. This was also a pretty good indicator to me that this is obviously a widespread issue and further confirmed that the regulator was the problem. I was able to use the part number on the side of the regulator itself and source one through Amazon. 2 days later the new regulator came and I installed it in the bike only to find that I now had 0 volts coming in to the charging leads on the battery. A bit more digging online and I found out about the in line Capacitor for the 12v circuit located behind the headlight underneath a massive wad of electrical tape. When I got all of the tape off of the capacitor it was visibly swollen and the bottom was blown out. Of course, when I called the local Beta Dealer to try and order one of these capacitors, they couldn't even find a part number for it to order. I called the other Dealer in Colorado and they told me it was on national backorder with no estimated date for when they will be available. Assuming that the overvoltage of the charging system had exceeded the limitations of the capacitor. Back to Amazon and I was able to find a 10 pack of capacitors with the correct specifications for 8 dollars. 2 days later, capacitors arrive and I put one in the bike. I started the bike and within a few seconds, the capacitor began smoking and let out a loud "pop" when the bottom of it exploded just like the stock capacitor had.  I placed a meter on the lead going into the capacitor and found that it had 26 volts. At this point, I figured I had gotten ahold of another bad voltage regulator but decided to do a thorough inspection of the wiring harness on the bike to rule anything out before ordering another. I started at the end of the harness where the capacitor was attached and began cutting through  the lame excuse for heat shrink and massive amounts of electrical tape that Beta used to wrap the harness. When I got to the part of the harness that is strapped to the headset next to the key hole, I found that a black wire had broken free from a cluster of (5) other black wires covered in another layer of heat shrink. I cut open the heat shrink and found the crimp connection that was used to bond all of these black wires together had failed and allowed one of them to wiggle loose. 

I re-attached this wire, installed a new capacitor (good thing I got the 8 pack) and re-connected everything on the bike. Started the bike and went for a voltage reading at the battery cables. Still 0 volts. checked voltage going into the capacitor and had 14 volts. voltage coming out of the capacitor is also at 14 volts. Checked the 10A fuse next to the starter relay and found that it was blown. Installed a  new 10A fuse and BINGO. We have 14 volts at the battery cables again! ran the bike through the RPM range an the voltage stayed rock solid at 14v. 

Now  I am thinking, "I wonder if the stock voltage regulator is still good". I swapped the stock regulator back in and she held 14 volts throughout the entire rpm range. 

I wonder how many other bikes have the exact same issue and are improperly diagnosed as a bad voltage regulator like mine was. I also wonder how many Beta dealers Have gone through the exact same thing I have and this is the reasoning for the Vague explanations they have been giving to customers about the repairs....

There are 2 things that I have learned from this experience:

1. Beta needs to get their act together when it comes to parts availability in the US and acknowledge the issue these bikes are having with over voltage (especially on the poor guys that have locked up their motors from the failed oil injection systems) and take care of these bikes under warranty.

2. The People at Shorai Batteries go above and beyond to take care of their customers.  They knew that My bike was the reason for their  battery failing, yet they still refunded my money in the interest of customer service and maintaining their reputation. I will not hesitate to buy another one of their batteries in the future ( just not for my BETA). 

I hope this information helps anyone else out there that is struggling to diagnose an overcharging condition on their Beta.

 

battery fire 1 . jpeg.PNG

battery fire 2 . jpeg.PNG

loose wire 1.jpeg

loose wire 2 .jpeg

amazon capacitor .jpeg

stock capacitor.jpeg

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