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Need some more help please.

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So today I bought and installed a new rear tire. It needed it bad. I am going to change the oil tomorrow and coolant. So right now the coolant that is in it is a 50/50 O'reileys brand green coolant. I am sure it is safe but decided to start running a dirtbike type. I forget what brand I bought but it might be Suzuki, its in the shop and its all locked up. My question is, can I just drain the old green coolant and fill back up with the new stuff without getting corrosion or any issues from the residual coolant left over mixing with the new stuff. They are different color thats for sure. I should be okay to not have to flush it right?

Next I installed a new No Toil air filter and noticed the air box could use a cleaning, to remove the air box do I have to remove it from the carb or is there a way to unbolt it. The bike is a 2005 Rm 450Z. Thanks a lot guys.

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Also I am just reading this, I thought this had an auto cam chain adjuster. It is 2005 rmz450. If it is a manual one how often should I check and tighten it and how much tension?

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If you have an OEM cam chain tensioner, replace it with a true manual tensioner from PSR, APE, or Tokyo mods. The OEM tensioner will cause you a lot of heartache and is responsible for I would say 50% of the issues on the 05-07 models. You *NEED* a manual to adjust cam chain tension and you should check your valve clearance while you're in the head. This should be done every oil change in my opinion. There is a lot of parts counting on proper chain tension, get it wrong and your engine will turn into a grenade in between your legs. You should be okay with not having to flush the old coolant out, but I would personally do it *with distilled water. just for piece of mind. It needs to be distilled water, normal water will make deposits and get you in some trouble with your cooling system. You "can" Unbolt the air boot from the air box, HOWEVER* I wouldn't recommend it, it's a big pain in the Keister and there is a foam seal that has to get replaced or use RTV in its place. Easiest way would be to get a air box wash cover. You put it in place of the filter and it seals off the air boot from water while you wash it out while it's still on the bike. twin air makes them. Only other way is unbolt the subframe and clamp on carb and pull the entire sub frame. You cannot get the air box out without pulling the subframe.

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For more info on timing chains and tensioners, look at the 2nd post from the top (stickie) that says "timing chain questions, no violence please" that will tell you anything and everything you need to know about that subject.

 

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Thank you for the help. I can't buy an after market tensioner right this second but I understand engines. Tell me if I am right...pull tdc bolt get top dead center by aligning the SECOND Notch with the outside notch inside the TDC bolt area, pull seat and gas tank and valve cover, loosen 12mm nut on cam chain tensioner, loosen Allen bolt on cam chain tensioner which will release spring tension tightening the cam chain, re tighten the Allen bolt then the 12 mm bolt, put it all back together..correct?

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1 hour ago, xMUDKINGx said:

For more info on timing chains and tensioners, look at the 2nd post from the top (stickie) that says "timing chain questions, no violence please" that will tell you anything and everything you need to know about that subject.

 

I have read that the manual for 05-06 had bad info? Where can I get the revised one

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Thank you for the help. I can't buy an after market tensioner right this second but I understand engines. Tell me if I am right...pull tdc bolt get top dead center by aligning the SECOND Notch with the outside notch inside the TDC bolt area, pull seat and gas tank and valve cover, loosen 12mm nut on cam chain tensioner, loosen Allen bolt on cam chain tensioner which will release spring tension tightening the cam chain, re tighten the Allen bolt then the 12 mm bolt, put it all back together..correct?

Yes that is basically all you have to do. The problem with the OEM one, is that over time, that spring looses tension and it won't push hard enough to get proper cam chain tension and you will skip timing. If it happens while you're riding, it's possible to send a valve through the piston. That will be about a 1500 dollar repair because it usually destroys the head. If you can't buy it now, I would put it at #1 on you're list.

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Well I took my zuk to the zuki  dealership one of my best friends works there as mechanic. I just wanted him to fire it up and see what he thought as far as timing chain/valves goes. He has waaaay more experience than I and he has a pretty good ear. He said the bike sounds like it's running perfect then he took it for a spin and said it is defiantly good to go. I have never owned a 4 stroke race bike like this so that's why I am being so thorough. This bike is my pride and joy and the key to my stress release and great fun so wanna keep it in tip top shape...also broke my &%$#@!ing left ankle today, pretty sweet huh.

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If you want it to be in tip-top shape you would have gotten that manual tensioner yesterday! ;) But seriously, the OEM tensioner failed 3 hours after I inspected/adjusted it and cost me a top end. If you want that bike to last you should replace it ASAP.

Edited by kNewc
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My oem tensioner is working great. With motor tdc/compression stroke i.e. cams facing away from each other, with cam chain tensioner adjusted it gives me about a little less than 3/16 of chain play when putting pressure upward on the chain so if that is proper chain tension and I go with an after market on would I want to adjust the cam chain tension to a little less that 3/16 up and down play on the chain. I hear you can really over tighten them so I ordered one per your recommendation so once installed with the after market one do I want to keep that chain at this minimal slack at tdc? I don't want to over tighten which I know with out a spring loaded tensioner such as the own it is easy to over adjust and cause more issues. Thanks. 

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