DRZ 470 with FCR 41

[ohiodrz400sm]

 
I just read this tip about removing it from the box part and then attracting the carb side first on another old thread. I'm kicking myself for not thinking of that.

I honestly don't know how you even mount a S boot on the sudcu bell adapter without doing this. The very 1st time I tried to install the carb I had to mount the boot on the carb off the bike and let it sit awhile to stretch it out. It's a pain.

Remove the bolts for the regulator and let it hang to for more room. Put the carb in the intake 1st. Then put the airboot on. Drop the subframe. Loosen the carb from the intake to reinstall the boot back to the box and tighten. Use a big screw driver to "stretch" the airboot to get the carb back into the intake fully seated. Done!

[Atolduso]

I honestly don't know how you even mount a S boot on the sudcu bell adapter without doing this. The very 1st time I tried to install the carb I had to mount the boot on the carb off the bike and let it sit awhile to stretch it out. It's a pain.

Remove the bolts for the regulator and let it hang to for more room. Put the carb in the intake 1st. Then put the airboot on. Drop the subframe. Loosen the carb from the intake to reinstall the boot back to the box and tighten. Use a big screw driver to "stretch" the airboot to get the carb back into the intake fully seated. Done!

A lot of swearing and force. I am still convinced my bike is leaking because the boot barely is on the intake bell

[ohiodrz400sm]

A lot of swearing and force. I am still convinced my bike is leaking because the boot barely is on the intake bell

Could be. If it is you'll never get it jetted. You can look in and feel it's seated correctly by mounting the boot off the box.

[jjktmrider]

If the boot is hardened a bit from age and fumes you can soften it up by soaking in a mixture of Wintergreen oil and rubbing alcohol . Takes a few days usually to get softer and maybe 2-3 weeks to make them outright sponge , then another week to air out and be usable again (aka don't forget about it soaking and keep an eye on it.) The mount spots will be bigger from swelling and fit over bells quite a bit too big even .

 

.

[reip]

maybe we should be getting this bell over the 021-216:

EDIT: the 216A.  OD is almost 2mm less and same length.  The 213 is 3mm less OD but 14mm longer than the 216

 

Edited June 16, 2017 by reip

[reip]

Damn actually the 021-600 is even better looking, 52mm OD and 27mm length.  Need to get my dial caliper on the S boot ID to see what it really is.  And/or the stock mikuni.  But if y'all say the 216 fits I'm getting that bish on there.

[Atolduso]

I would switch bells if someone could confirm that there is one that fits a little better on the air box boot , do you have links?

 

[ohiodrz400sm]

The stock E bell adapter and airboot is also an option. I used them when I had a slant and it slipped in pretty easily.

[reip]

Getting thoughts about sprocket sizes now.  Still running 15/41 thinking about going down to 37 or 38.  Either option requires chain trimming no?

[reip]

OK the carb is installed.  Took a little while to complete but the results seem promising!  Toughest part was getting the throttle linkage right. It's still not perfect.

 

With the handlebars pointed straight I get a nice smooth action, same with turned full left,maybe a little slower recoil.  But when I turn right the thing stays stuck wide open.  See picture of linkage setup at carb.  Also played with adjustments at the cable by the throttle.  Possible I have the cables backwards??

Oh FYI I'm using the cable that came with the new carb

Also took some video for ya of the sticky throttle and the first startup.  She fired right up and idles great and sounds healthy.  Just free revving it sometimes gets a slight hesitation.  Need to ride it to really feel it.  Too bad it's RAINING 

First start

Sticky throttle

Edited June 17, 2017 by reip

[jjktmrider]

With the adjustments of both cables at complete opposites and at their max , I'd say you have the cables in the wrong position aka current pull cable should be installed as the push cable and vice-versa.

 

.

[reip]

Figured as much, I'm still gunna take her for a rip before I switch it around just in case the carb needs to come off again.

[reip]

6 hours ago, jjktmrider said:

With the adjustments of both cables at complete opposites and at their max , I'd say you have the cables in the wrong position aka current pull cable should be installed as the push cable and vice-versa.

 

.

But wait, can't the cables only be installed one way in the throttle??

[jjktmrider]

If the stock DRZ cable have a molded linup thing-a-majig up at the housing ,then they would be stuck to one position . I don't have the stock housing so maybe I'm wrong on switching the cables around then , mine are just slid into slots in the housing, same as my KLX's . Still odd the the adjustments are at max and on opposite ends.

 

.

[reip]

Yea these have 90° bends and the plastic slide in thingamajig so it seemed like it would only go one way...but I could be wrong.  

The reason why the adjusters are like that is because of how the point where the cable ball ends mount inside the throttle wheel (at the bars) needs to be at a certain position otherwise it hits the housing and won't allow for WOT.  If I adjust it back even it interferes at like 3/4 throttle.  

 

I bet if I got a throttle housing off of a bike that uses that carb/cable it would work better.  Honda 450?? Doesn't help that the cables still get tight at full right turn seems to be my issue at the moment.

Still didn't get a chance to ride it.  Im temporarily keeping it at my pops place so I can dial it in before I bring it back into NYC and risk getting stuck on a bridge or a bad spot.  At least by him I can keep ripping around the neighborhood dialing it in and just walk home to my truck if it goes kaput.

Plus my neighbors in Queens didn't take kindly to me going up and down my block for a half hour with that exhaust trying to troubleshoot the mikuni carb

[reip]

Confirmed the cable routing was correct.  Ditched the return cable, works fine now to both bar turn stops.  Endured more torrential downpour last night, couldn't ride so I loaded the bike up this morning to take her back to the city with me.

 

Ripped it up and down my block a few times, stopped it, started it, all seemed ok.

Took her for a real ride tonight and she's a BEAST! all seems well now.  Wheelie central, great throttle response, cruises at speed on the highway without issue.  Returns to idle, doesn't stumble, turns off and right back on again.  I'd say great success!  Gunna have a buddy with a good feel for a good carb setup go for a ride on it this weekend.

[jjktmrider]

If your running without a pull cable it would well advised to have Motion Pro make you one at least . Measure the one you have , both outer sheathing and then how much longer the inner cable sticks out then tell them to make it 3/8" longer. The one you have must have been made too short or the outer sheathing is too long.

 

.

[reip]

If I ever have to mess with it again I'll try throwing the stock cable back on.  And if not that then maybe an E cable

[Atolduso]

Sorry if it's in here somewhere but what jetting did you settle on? 

[reip]

59 minutes ago, Atolduso said:

Sorry if it's in here somewhere but what jetting did you settle on? 

40 pilot 170 main.

I was just getting some flat spots in the mid range.  Need to play with the fuel screw when I'm closer to home.