hopefully someone can drop some knowledge on me.
Please try to follow as im not much of a writer, im probably going to be all over the place....bear with me.
I installed a custom "FLOWPRO" fcr mx 39 on a drz400sm :"3x3 & full GPR exhaus, no tps connected"
WOT it runs and pulls perfectly, as expected.
1/8th-1/4 its sputtering like crazy or if im just cruising at a constant speed after a second or two it spudders until i crack it open.
I had the A/f mixture screw and 2-3 turns out and it was sputtering like crazy anywhere from 1/8th throttle to 1/4th or just cruising at a constant speed. So i turned it all the way in and it ran much better, but its still happening, which leads me to believe it is too rich?
I ran it without the airbox and it ran better that with it on there but not a significant difference.
It has a new air filter and sparkplug looks good. It was running perfectly this morning with the mikuni on.
Idle jet #40
Main jet #155
Main air jet #200
Idle air jet #75
Choke jet #75
Needle ELQ 4th clip from top, "was on third but ran much worse, the guy that built it said to drop it one more clip to see if that helps, It did help a good bit but still not perfect"
other than the spudder at 1/8 throttle and having to have the AF all the way in it runs great. WTF.
I tried to give as much info as possible, let me know if theres anything i missed.
By Mike Vaughan
I've been struggling to understand what the accelerator pump does in relation to the idle jet and how to tune the squirt, what the squirt actually looked like, etc. This has made it much clearer for me. I haven't seen anything like it on here in all my searches or I missed it. Anyhow I hope it helps someone else.
The flowchart runs down the steps in an easy to follow way and the video is actually very good. The guy doesn't jabber on about nonsense and has great shots of the accelerator pump doing it's thing as well as showing what you'll see on it if the adjustment is off and what the leak jet is doing.
Source of flowchart: Instructables user gmessenger
Video found here @ howtomotorcyclerepair.com
My '05 SM had it's rod bearing go out at 15,000 miles and scored my cylinder so its time for a rebuild. I already have the engine out and cases split, just getting ready to clean and inspect everything and spend lots of money. Bike as of now has 3x3, full Yosh RS3 Off-Road exhaust, and JD jet kit.
The plan so far is to get:
Hot Rods Crank Assembly Cylinder Works Big Bore Kit Cam Chain MCCT FCR 39 (hey why not) My main question is if I should replace the engine bearings or not. I feel like I should since I have the engine apart and plan not to have it again for a while, but its around $200 for main, transmission, counter balance, etc. I could not find anything about inspecting bearings aside from feeling smoothness. Is there anything that indicates I should replace bearings? Should they be fine? Or dont risk it and replace all since I had metal running through the oil?
Let me know what you think along with any recommendations for the build. I plan on skipping out on the stroker to eliminate challenges with compression and reliability and skip out on cams for the sake of $$$.
OEM suzuki rack and rear rack bag DRZ400 fits S or Sm or E w S or Sm rear subframe.
Both parts are in very good used condition the bag is real nice it has quick snap buckles to attach and remove quickly. It has a carry handle to easily take it w you when when the bag is removed. There is a reflective stripe around the whole bag. The bag is Expandable w a zipper so it can be up to 4" TALLER Measures 5.5"Hx10"Wx10"D or 9.5x10x10. I put a gallon of water inside the bag unzipped so you can see the size of the bag, it looks like you could hold a couple two liters in the bag w the gallon when the bag is expanded.
The rack is the OE suzuki rack in nice shape the paint doesnt have any big gouges and the tool holder isnt ripped or cracked (no tools included) This rack is a good size w out being to long or wide. It gives you a solid rear grab point to lift your bike or push if your stuck. The bag fits the rack perfect. The rack has all the attaching hardware included.
Both parts are in nice shape just a little dusty from sitting around.
$115 plus shipping and paypal fees
the last pic is not my bag and rack but is the same suzuki bag and rack as mine on a drz400.
What can I expect as challenges to using the bigger fin cylinder from a ATC200X on a TLR200 Reflex engine. I want the extra cooling from the bigger fins.
Am I going to have to also use the ATC 200X head and then use the ATC200X ignition parts? Help me if you have done this by telling me of your experience mating these to a Reflex TLR200.