Jump to content

Timing question

Recommended Posts

My DRZ runs terribly. I have gone through the carb twice and everything looks clean and in order. So I was thinking maybe the timing. I read the FAQ on timing. I set it to the T line at TDC. I think it is one tooth out. Does anyone else in the know think so? Please see pic.

Thanks.

Clay

20170610_150846.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The line is in the middle. I shot the cams straight on. It just looks slightly off. Maybe a tooth.

20170610_201004.jpg

20170610_201113.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had the same problem , half a tooth off , changed the chain for a new oem thinking that mine was stretched , same problem  with brand new chain , i think it's common with a lot of drz. Head cover is off, check your valve clearance .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, habs said:

I had the same problem , half a tooth off , changed the chain for a new oem thinking that mine was stretched , same problem  with brand new chain , i think it's common with a lot of drz. Head cover is off, check your valve clearance .

How did you fix yours? Did setting the valves help?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It looks like 1 tooth would be too far. Get a dial indicator so you can check and see if your timing mark is truly at TDC. Maybe the woodruff keyway is worn?

 

Another possibility is a worn cam chain.

 

Valve clearance has nothing to do with how the timing marks look. Definitely measure the clearance while the cover is off.

Unless you find the clearance is significantly out of tolerances, it's not the cause of your running issue.

 

How long have you had the bike? Is the problem something that start suddenly? Describe "terrible".

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, claexc said:

How did you fix yours? Did setting the valves help?

Never had a problem , just  saying that being off by half a tooth is ok for me , bike running grate , with new chain I was still off by half a tooth , so maybe your problem has nothing to do with being off , maybe its valve clearance , and I don't think clearance has anything to do with sprocket being off it's just the right time to check your valves  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't understand how you can physically set a chain half a tooth different, what am I missing

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Atolduso said:

I don't understand how you can physically set a chain half a tooth different, what am I missing

It's already biased a half tooth, so choose which side you want it off at. :D

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Bermudacat said:

I'd rather run stock cams a half tooth advanced, instead of a half tooth retarded.

So if i advance the intake ( lifting chain and bring no 3  arrow vertical ) , the exhaust arrow (no 2 ) will be leaning towards the front  , if you whant to keep the 15 link seperation , correct ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You have to allow for the cam chain tensioner when it's released, it's easy to get it one tooth out not allowing for the cam chain tension, the timing marks should line up, 

if there not lined up it will be hard to start 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, colhewi said:

You have to allow for the cam chain tensioner when it's released, it's easy to get it one tooth out not allowing for the cam chain tension, the timing marks should line up, 

if there not lined up it will be hard to start 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, habs said:

So if i advance the intake ( lifting chain and bring no 3  arrow vertical ) , the exhaust arrow (no 2 ) will be leaning towards the front  , if you whant to keep the 15 link seperation , correct ?

That is what I'm saying. Or you could just do the intake, but running that small of an intake retarded isn't worth anything.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

It looks like 1 tooth would be too far. Get a dial indicator so you can check and see if your timing mark is truly at TDC. Maybe the woodruff keyway is worn?

 

Another possibility is a worn cam chain.

 

Valve clearance has nothing to do with how the timing marks look. Definitely measure the clearance while the cover is off.

Unless you find the clearance is significantly out of tolerances, it's not the cause of your running issue.

 

How long have you had the bike? Is the problem something that start suddenly? Describe "terrible".

 

 

I got it from a guy and the carb was out of it. He said it wouldnt idle and was tired of messing with it. He said that everything wws good but dont complain to him about the carb.

I got it to idle but not very well. The idle screw is all the way in. At low rpms it sputters and coughs.

Say that I climb a bit of a hill slowly. At the top it will cough an die. 

If I open it up it runs better still not perfect though.

Keihin carb, Akropovic muffler, 3x3 mod, 440 big bore. I think it may also have aftermarket cams.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×