Jump to content

Rmz450!

Recommended Posts

I switched from Suzuki 4 cycle racing motorcycle oil to their synthetic stuff. Will I have any issues the bike is an 05 rmz450 had new piston installed 11 hours ago..csn I switch back to their regular stuff if the synthetic is bad for the clutch...also it clearly states on back of bottle specifically designed for wet clutches. If I need to switch back is it bad to do So, back to conventional. I like sy nthetic and the price doesn't bother me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not trying to be a d*ck but There is no need to make duplicate threads. When someone is available to answer your question. Someone will answer. Refer to your other post for answer.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 xMUDKINGx  sound like you're being just that  :thumbsup:

To YZ1825 . If you feel good about running synthetic go for it . When breaking in a new top end is the only time you might not want to or so I'm lead to believe . Glazing being the main problem if I remember right .
 


 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on the make up of the oil. A good synthetic is just fine for break in. I personally don't use it, and don't see the need. I prefer Rotella in the white jug... but I know plenty of people that do use full synthetic, and have used it since day 1 and have had no issues. 

Edited by BDubb106

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

hey so i was going through the clickers on the suspension. it had a fork job done on it with 3wt shock fluid. He had the dampenr set at 9 clicks and the compression (forks by the way) set to 9 clicks from screwed all the way in. wasnt sure with the fork job if I should use the factory setting then go from there. what are you guys running click wise from screwed all the way in? the MANUAL shows top of fork compression 11 clicks to start thats factory and the rebound 14 clicks. Can I do this with 3wt oil on this fork job that was done not too long ago? Also for jumps and some trails can I get a reccomendation for how many clicks to run for compression and rebound...like I said I am on 7 for rebound and 9 for compression. If I recall, before I started, I know I should have wrote it down the rebound was 8 and 8 for compression. thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 6/17/2017 at 9:22 PM, YZF1825 said:

hey so i was going through the clickers on the suspension. it had a fork job done on it with 3wt shock fluid. He had the dampenr set at 9 clicks and the compression (forks by the way) set to 9 clicks from screwed all the way in. wasnt sure with the fork job if I should use the factory setting then go from there. what are you guys running click wise from screwed all the way in? the MANUAL shows top of fork compression 11 clicks to start thats factory and the rebound 14 clicks. Can I do this with 3wt oil on this fork job that was done not too long ago? Also for jumps and some trails can I get a reccomendation for how many clicks to run for compression and rebound...like I said I am on 7 for rebound and 9 for compression. If I recall, before I started, I know I should have wrote it down the rebound was 8 and 8 for compression. thanks.

If your suspension was re valved for you at a suspension shop, I would go with their recommendations for your clickers, High speed compression, and sag.  If not re valved just go by the manual's base setup, and adjust 1-2 clicks at a time as needed.  There is no magic number for everyone, so it's hard to make recommendations.  Try to ask someone who is pretty knowledgeable with suspension at your track to watch you ride.  He may be able to see something that need's improvement. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So a little update on my RMZ 450...jesus crist I love it..just absolutely love it. I ordered a Hammer Head shifter since with my new boots on I needed a little different angle on the gear shifter and I moved it up one notch as well, much better shifting, installed a C4 radiator cap at 1.4 bar (stock was 1.1) installed new wheel bearings which it needed bad. One last thing to do it would be nice to let off on the compression of the rear shock just a couple few clicks. Other than that I think I am done messing with it and will just ride the heck out of it now. 

 

Also I purchased Works Connections axle blocks, the reversed kind so the adjustment screws are screwed almost all the way down. Went to install those today but I will have to remove a link or 2 from the chain to get the wheel to sit that far forward on the swing arm and have good chain tension.

Well thanks guys for all your help, now that I am more familiar with the bike-been studying everything about it 24/7 for the last 2 weeks, I feel much more comfortable and confident with just riding it and NOT looking for things to fix that aren't broken..my apologies for being so intense when I first showed up here.

 

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nearly all of the "factory" teams (or teams with the ability to produce one off parts) use a 4 speed tranny outdoors, 5 speed indoors. Still quite different than what we saw with the 05-07 RMZ. 5 speed is better for the average amateur due to usability. There are a lot of other factors to be considered as well. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just switched to synthetic and the clutch feels so much better on my '05. I use Belray full synthetic. I would say to use normal oil for the top end break in, and then either continue using regular, or switch to synthetic and only use that. Just stick to 1 and change it often.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya I didn't even think about it at the time but when I changed the oil to synthetic...and then quickly flushed it and went back to regular the new weisco piston only had 4 hrs on it so I am glad I switched back. I wanna go to that new ecstar stuff what do you guys think about that oil. It's Suzuki and meant for rmz's.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oil is oil... clean oil is more important than the name on the bottle. Switching oils frequently is a bad idea. Many oils do not get along well if mixed. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ya I'm sticking with Suzuki 10w40 oil and gonna stick with changing every 2 hrs. The guy I got it from did very good maintainance but the oil was dirty when I got it. It has been coming out cleaner and cleaner since I've been changing it and the motor has gotten quieter and quieter. I do understand why the manual states to adjust valves and rebuild top end (piston) every so many hours but I think it comes down to the way you ride. Now being WOT every hour you log then ya you would be replacing parts more often. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I've been doing it to kind of flush whatever the previous owner was using out I have about 3.5 hrs on this oil change..but will most likely will change it tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are worried about what is floating around in the engine it would be more beneficial to actually flush it than to circulate it through the motor. 

I run my motors pretty darn hard and I change my oil every 5. Even that seems a bit excessive to me but I like the peace of mind. The oil looks the same coming out as it did going in. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did my oil change today, it had 4 hours on this change after riding for about 30 min. Finally coming out gold. I have not ran the bike hard yet. Hey I live like 20ft from the ocean in the shitty commy state of CA, I notice when I start er' up cold there looks to be like moisture in the exhaust or something, is that normal for a dirt bike? Probably so at sea level and 90% humidity.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×