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Leak around dampening rod

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Bike is 09 YZ125.  Had a leaky fork seal on one side, tore it down and figured I'd replace the fluid in the internal cartridge as well since the dampening rod would not extend fully.  200mL of Bel Ray 5wt per spec, measured height after pumping dampening rod a few times, spot on level.  Installed the base valve, went to bleed and noticed that the dampening rod is leaking where it inserts into the cartridge.  After a few pumps enough fluid leaked out to be of concern and the rod will not longer extend fully.  Pulled the rod out completely, checked the valve bolt and bushing at the bottom, both looked good and the bolt was tight.  Both sides are leaking fluid there.  Not sure that I've seen this before, but I'm pretty sure the rod is supposed to continue extending fully even after the bleed step correct?  Forks and seals have about 20hrs on them since last rebuild (which was ground up from local suspension guy).  Pics for reference.  Like I said, it's leaking from where the dampening rod goes into the cartridge.

What's the culprit?  Can I take the bottom of the internal cartridge apart with a 15-16mm allen?  It looks like there may be some orings in there, but the service manual doesn't outline disassembly or parts.  I'm selling my second bike this week, so since this one is down that means no riding until I get this fixed :thumbsdn:

 

IMG_20170612_065856.thumb.jpg.74bbf2572f0ddab2c0a766357ec71c2b.jpgIMG_20170612_065841.thumb.jpg.2656fedc8788f8f49ba0c4a225051b92.jpgIMG_20170612_065836.thumb.jpg.93997b5c95ddc1fa4b9086491cb75f8e.jpg

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There is a detailed thread on cartridge seals somewhere on the forum

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you need new damper rod cartridge seals, you can buy them from Suspensiondirect.com , you have to drill into those 4 dimples about 2 or 3 mm and heat up the metal tube and break that bottom bolt loose with the right Allen tool and a big breaker bar, and tool holding the top of the cartridge from turning. Check videos on YouTube or search YouTube for skf glide kit install. Probably should replace the free piston seals too, in the free piston at the top compression assembly. 

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Hey guys, I'm having a hard time distinguishing which seals to get.  Can you help clarify based on below.  The technical touch website is essentially all PDFs and a PITA to use.  The diagrams were apparently drawn by a 3rd grader.  This is what I found on suspension direct.  I'm not sure the difference between the KFCSBY06 and KFCY06, can anyone explain?  I'm going to go ahead and order the bushing as well, but not sure about the seals.

Doing a little more research it looks like only the Showa forks have to be drilled and my KYBs do not have the preens anyway.  This is the thread I found detailing the uninstall, so I'm hoping it's pretty good.  I could not find anything of the like on youtube except random SKF glide kit installs in air forks with no verbal instruction and some crazy futuristic neon light show....must be for the ktm guys :)

https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/996485-diy-kyb-ss-ics-and-rod-seal-replacement/

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Wow.  Suspension direct has all but 1 of the seals in stock, and it doesn't look like Technical Touch even ships to the US.  I spoke to someone from Suspension Direct and he said they literally never order those seals...they have no prior history of ordering them and he could not give me any indication of when they would have more.

Any ideas or other places I should look?  I contacted my local suspension guy hoping like hell he has one seal I can buy, but I haven't heard back yet.  Thanks guys, hoping not to have to wait for 2 months until I get this thing back together.  The last time an OEM part was back ordered it took over a month for me to get it.  I literally just sold my backup bike 2 days ago and don't have anything to ride. :thumbsdn:

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6 hours ago, bcssrmz250 said:

 it doesn't look like Technical Touch even ships to the US.

They have a service center in California:  Technical Touch USA  http://www.technicaltouchusa.com/

From there they ship to Canada as well.  Ordered a few times from them, quick and courteous replies when contacted.

Edited by mlatour
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Awesome.  I looked through Race Techs website but couldn't find trinket KYB parts like these small seals, that doesn't mean they don't have them.  My google search brought up technical touch but didn't see where I could order anything online.  I'll give them a call and go that route.  

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Technical Touch has a ton of stuff listed on ebay.  I just pull part numbers out of their catalog and paste them into ebay and they usually come right up.  I don't think their catalog is difficult at all to use though, other then being so chock full of part numbers and information that it can take a minute to drill down to what you're looking for.  Its a great resource.

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Gone, back, now here... 

Can I just invert the inner cartridge, clamp in vice (via fork tool) and heat to loosen 17mm Allen? It's bad, but it's going to take some considerable effort to convert this 2x4 into that wooden tool shown in the other thread. Other ways? 

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Don't forget to drill thru those dimples before attempting to loosen things.

I just did mine last week on my CRF, Showas have a nice hex shape lug halfway up the cartridge for easy clamping,

but in your case yes, using the cap wrench secured in a vise should do, once heated up it didn't take much force to break the 17mm hex loose.

 

Careful to flush out all the aluminium bits created by the drilling before re-assembly.

 

You can slightly file/sand down the sharp threads on the rebound rods to prevent damage to the new seals,

temporarily wrapping Teflon tape around the threads also works well.

Edited by mlatour
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19 minutes ago, mlatour said:

Don't forget to drill thru those dimples before attempting to loosen things.

I just did mine last week on my CRF, Showas have a nice hex shape lug halfway up the cartridge for easy clamping,

but in your case yes, using the cap wrench secured in a vise should do, once heated up it didn't take much force to break the 17mm hex loose.

 

Careful to flush out all the aluminium bits created by the drilling before re-assembly.

 

You can slightly file/sand down the sharp threads on the rebound rods to prevent damage to the new seals,

temporarily wrapping Teflon tape around the threads also works well.

Awesome so glad you saw this! The kyb requires no drilling though only the showa, so thankfully one less thing I have to worry about. I'm going to clamp fork tool in the vice and invert. Grinding the 17mm down came out easier than I thought. 

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Ok I do have to make the wood thing to disassemble the next little inner tube thingy idk. Made the wood, put in vice with and without rubber pads, heated with propane, no luck. I guess I need an impact? Can't seem to get enough grip on the round seal holder to break it loose. Why the hell would kyb design like this? I guess showas have a another Allen, so it's duhhh. Easier. 

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