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Timing Chain Links


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Rebuilding top end of my 2004 EXC 400.  Now onto re-riveting the timing chain but having some problems.

1) it looks like I 'broke' the chain incorrectly?  I've managed to remove this section:

IMG_0620.thumb.jpg.06a4de320e849733f140887a386065b0.jpg 

Opposed to this section (new replacement riveting link, (I bought 2 in case a damaged one))

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I was hooing to just use the old pins and re-swedge them but the old pins will not fit in the links in the chain now (by hand).  The pins will not push into these link holes....

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I thought I must have distorted the ends enough when removing that they no longer fit but then I tried the new riveting link in these same holes and they don't fit either!

Then I tried pushing (again by hand) the new riveting plate to on to the new riveting link pins (plate see resting on top if the pins below but that also doesn't fit....

IMG_0617.JPG.7b15c180fc0f086210b0a3401727b631.JPG

So am guessing plates have to be pressed back on to the pins (old or new pins).  Is this correct?

Given the way I 'broke' the chain its going to be very tricky press the old pins through the chain, though the section I removed and in the plate.

I'm using the motion pro chain riveting tool...

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Any advice/thoughts welcome.  Far too many tiny bits to juggle and not drop in the motor!

Have I buggered it by removing the section rather then riveting link supplied as replacement?

Hope that all makes sense.  Thanks in advance.

Dan.

 

 

Edited by floydstar
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yeah, but may be difficult, cause crank will have to rotate, remove spark plug. Pull chain through while, bumping rear wheel in 6th gear, make sure valves are at tdc, and not rotating(which shouldn't be with no cam chain attached).

You have to be in sync aiding the chain coming through while bumping the rear wheel, or chain could bunch up.

Could be tedious  , and if you have a rekluse, rear wheel bump method wont work, without locking the clutch up.

Edited by Spud786
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Piston is is TDC now and I've locked it there with the locking bolt (thick washer removed to lock it).  I set it this way before I put the head back on to make sure it was in TDC for when I re-swedged the chain and got onto the valves adjustment

Questions:

1) Can the piston only ever be in TDC when the lock bolt is in lock position or is it possible to find the crank locking position with the bolt when the piston is on overlap stroke?

2) I've only just put the head back on, new gasket, and torqued it down.  The engine hasn't run.  If I removed the head again to ensure I get true TDC, and lock it out with the bolt again, then replace the timing chain with the head still off (should be easier to feed it through with less of distance) and feed the new chain through the motor can I re-use the head gasket? or is it knackered after its been torqued down once?

Thanks for your help 

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Its the valves that can get in overlap, the crank is either fully up  or fully down. Take a small screwdriver through the spark hole and you will touch the piston or shine a light, and youll see the top of the piston. Having said that, are there any extra holes, the pin will fit into with piston not fully up, probably.

So if you feel better about pulling the head then do that

Edited by Spud786
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New chain now fitted and swedged - thankfully it pulled through ok using a bit of thin wire to connect the old chain to the new chain.  Meant I had a chain to practice on too which help when I can to riveting the new chain.  That's fiddly!  Hope the gaskets ok as the heads been on a off a few times now.

Valve adjustment next.  It's locked in TDC now.

I cant find any shims - did this model RFS not have shims?  2004 400 EXC-R....

Thanks

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