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2012 wr450 need advice

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Before anyone says "use the search" and all that, i have, couldnt find exactly what i was looking for and if i did i was unaware that was the answer in front of me lol 

 

so, I recently acquired a new, never been started, 2012 wr450f. Like most, the restrictions made to the bike from factory were unbearable for me. I have removed the throttle stop to wake it up. Now i have purchased a FMF powercore 4 hex slip-on. I only purchased the slip on, everything else is stock. That is where the trouble began. My bike refuses to move, it starts, wont rev and dies regardless of hot or cold.

 

I do believe i need a map? is that correct? would that be all i need to do? i know i need the GYTR comp kit ECU from what i understand. 

 

Please forgive me if that has been covered numerous times, i tried to use my few brain cells to find it on my own, and failed. 

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It will run very lean being opened up without the comp ECU, but it should still move just fine. Are you saying that it won't move at all? Does it idle? Does the rear wheel spin freely when on a stand?

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3 minutes ago, woods-rider said:

It will run very lean being opened up without the comp ECU, but it should still move just fine. Are you saying that it won't move at all? Does it idle? Does the rear wheel spin freely when on a stand?

its like when you twist the throttle it bogs down and quits. i know i installed it correctly. it idles great, sounds amazing while idling but when you go to ride it, it says no and quits. 

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And it ran fine before adding the pipe and removing throttle stop?

Sounds like an unrelated issue to me, unless there is some sort of packing material stuck in the pipe from shipping that you didn't see and is restricting the flow enough at anything above idle.

Take the pipe off and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, take off the spark arrest or and try to fish a piece of solid core wire though it to see if there's something stuck in there like packing peanuts.

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15 minutes ago, woods-rider said:

And it ran fine before adding the pipe and removing throttle stop?

Sounds like an unrelated issue to me, unless there is some sort of packing material stuck in the pipe from shipping that you didn't see and is restricting the flow enough at anything above idle.

Take the pipe off and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, take off the spark arrest or and try to fish a piece of solid core wire though it to see if there's something stuck in there like packing peanuts.

nope i reinstalled the stock pipe and it ran perfect as can be. the problem literally began when i put the FMF pipe on. however, i have rode it a few times with that FMF pipe on it and it ran good, although it did backfire once or twice which was odd.

 im using premium 93 fuel if that matters. the FMF seems to be getting plenty of flow through it, so im not certain that is the issue but ill definitely give that a try ya never know. 

would you not recommend going the tuner route then to solve the issue? or does that even matter?

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2 hours ago, rossbourne14 said:

nope i reinstalled the stock pipe and it ran perfect as can be. the problem literally began when i put the FMF pipe on. however, i have rode it a few times with that FMF pipe on it and it ran good, although it did backfire once or twice which was odd.

 im using premium 93 fuel if that matters. the FMF seems to be getting plenty of flow through it, so im not certain that is the issue but ill definitely give that a try ya never know. 

would you not recommend going the tuner route then to solve the issue? or does that even matter?

rossborne14  -

 

 Sorry you are having an issue, it can be so many different things. One thing we would recommend is disconnecting your battery (both your positive and negative terminals) let it sit for at least 6 hours or overnight disconnected. when your ready to ride the bike again connect the battery, put a fan on the bike and start it. Let the bike idol for about 10 minutes uninterrupted, so don't touch the throttle or anything like that. In MOST cases this will help the system adjust to the new settings. 

let us know if that works.    

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If you change the pipe or the intake, you must change to the comp ecu, or it will run terribly.

The stock intake and exhaust pipe is so restrictive, that the 'jetting' is extra lean. Change the pipe and it will be so lean it will barely run.

You MUST remove the intake 'blocker' and you MUST change pipe (you did) and you MUST get the gytr ecu, if you want it to run well.

You can't just pick and choose what you want to do.

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+1 for the ECU. Mine came with the FMF and stock ECU, and it was super lean and backfiring. If the bike has zero hours, I'd break it in first before doing the mods. Tolerances are tight and are likely to change a bit after a few hours. 

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