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Tried and true xr valving for xr600r

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So I ordered .47 fork springs and 11.5 rear spring for my xr600r from XR's only. And I bought the race tech suspension bible. So far I can't find any talk about what people have done for shim stacks or other fork mods. I have ideas about what I think I should do but why experiment if there is a known good starting point.  I revalved  my ranger about 10 years ago and I remember finding a lot of info online to help me with a starting point.

I'm 6'2 230lb. The bike is plush now but  bottoms bad when I get in the whoops and I blew out the bearing for the rear shock last ride. 

Any tips or tricks ? I'm not that great of a rider and no suspension expert but I'm pretty sure it can be set up better for me.  I hoped the race tech "bible" would have some info in it but it seems like more of a sales tool for the gold valves...

 

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I'm considering taking a shim or 2 off of the compression side and putting it on the rebound side for starters if I can't find any info. Stupid idea?  Also XR's only sold me 7wt for the front so that might slow down the rebound of the heavier springs a little. 

Or, maybe I'll leave the compression alone and try to stiffen up the rebound a little once I see the stack if I can figure out a way to. Right now the shock it all the way hard and the front it 2 clicks.  

Also, I'm thinking about having a single stack for simplicity instead of a double. I hope that's what I find so I don't have to second guess myself. 

The bike is street legal but I mostly care about the dirt. 

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This is similar to what you will be getting into. Your cheapest and easiest route will be racetech. I have never used them, but they have done all the r&d and you purchase and install your self. They are diverse in experience.

 

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Thanks for the reply. I've seen that thread but it was good to read it again.
I've read the race tech stuff and don't really believe that I need the gold valves. I would have bought my springs through them if they would give me valving info. I bought their book to read about valving and it kinda glossed over it.
I really don't blame them for trying to keep their secrets. And I don't expect XRs only to give up theirs just for a sale on a pair of springs but I'm going to do my research and try to figure it out myself rather than buy gold valves just to get shim stack advise.

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I have a couple more questions. I keep reading that when you put heavier springs you have to slow down the rebound. I don't have rebound clickers on the xr600r so I guess I need to get that right.
But it seems like since I'm heavier and I finally have the right springs it should be pretty close because of the extra weight. Any thoughts?

I'm starting to think I'll rebuild them with the new springs and worry about the valving after I ride it and get a feel for what it needs.

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It is true about making the rebound stiffer, but you suggested taking 2 shims out if your compression stack. I would not do this. You might be trading compression damping for rebound damping and in the end you have not gained more control because of the trade off. When you get your components apart, you can post up the shim stacks and hopefully more people will weigh in.  You will most likely be purchasing shims to properly tune your suspension, this is why I suggested racetech. Because their packages will include the shims you require along with the shim stack configurations. You can accomplish this without ractech pkg but will probably take much more effort but can be done. Just wanted you to understand the challenge.

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It is true about making the rebound stiffer, but you suggested taking 2 shims out if your compression stack. I would not do this. You might be trading compression damping for rebound damping and in the end you have not gained more control because of the trade off. When you get your components apart, you can post up the shim stacks and hopefully more people will weigh in.  You will most likely be purchasing shims to properly tune your suspension, this is why I suggested racetech. Because their packages will include the shims you require along with the shim stack configurations. You can accomplish this without ractech pkg but will probably take much more effort but can be done. Just wanted you to understand the challenge.


Ok thanks. One of my next questions was where do you buy shims. I think you're right I should just buy the gold valves but I already have springs coming. I assume they can account for my springs.
Sometimes I need to remind myself that I have more money and less time than I used to. Thanks again.

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When you purchase from racetech you get online access to a shim stack configuration database. It is available for a limited amount of time after purchase. Before purchasing call them up and explain your desired outcome of your suspension. They will assist you. There is also a helpful racetech employee on here who has assisted many people like yourself. His name is RT_Chris448. He will assist you outside the forum. More people have been happy with racetech compared to those that have not but check out this thread so you understand the risks. Talk to Chris 

 

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Unfortunately the stock XR600 suspension, both forks and shock, is a bit different than many other bikes.  So it's a bit trickier for learning, as I also found.  There are some youtube videos of installing gold valves in 650L forks (very similar), which will be generally the same concept as disassembling the stock forks.  For the shock, search this forum for the slightly different process required.  There are many people here to give help and suggestions.

You may quickly outgrow the design limitations of the stock forks.  You'd be money ahead to swap on modern USD forks (from a Honda CR or CRF), rather than investing in any upgrades to the stockers.  Plus there is endless information available about rebuilding and revalving those forks.

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4 hours ago, heart_of_darkness said:

You may quickly outgrow the design limitations of the stock forks.  You'd be money ahead to swap on modern USD forks (from a Honda CR or CRF), rather than investing in any upgrades to the stockers.  Plus there is endless information available about rebuilding and revalving those forks.

Ya if I had realized there wasn't much info available on the 600 I might have just gone with the uSD forks. But since, I just got the parts in the mail I think I'll move forward. I feel like the xr600r is more capable than I will ever be anyway. Maybe I would be a little faster on a modern bike but I'm ok with being a little slower at 39 years old.  Thanks for the input. 

Btw, I was almost scared to order for XRs only after reading reviews but they were helpful. When I called  to order more parts they were upfront that they didn't have a seal and it would delay my order a few days. 

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On 6/18/2017 at 3:40 PM, rjg said:

When you purchase from racetech you get online access to a shim stack configuration database. It is available for a limited amount of time after purchase. Before purchasing call them up and explain your desired outcome of your suspension. They will assist you. There is also a helpful racetech employee on here who has assisted many people like yourself. His name is RT_Chris448. He will assist you outside the forum. More people have been happy with racetech compared to those that have not but check out this thread so you understand the risks. Talk to Chris 

 

Seems like a good product. If I lived farther away from LA it would be a no brainer. If I can't get it to where I'm happy I might just take it to Race Tech or XRs only and have them do it.  Also, There is 805 suspension about an hour from my house. Anyone have experience with them?

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IMG_1733.JPGIMG_1732.JPG

I took the shock off between dinner and giving the kids a bath. Hopefully I can take it apart tomorrow night.

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IMG_1736.JPGIMG_1743.JPGIMG_1744.JPGIMG_1749.JPG

I'm not sure if the pics will work, but I rebuilt the rear shock today and put it back on the bike. Hopefully the seal doesn't leak because I didn't get the bullet tool and did a tape trick that didn't work...
But I can tell just bouncing on the bike I will like it better. I'm still looking for valving input, but I'm going to ride it and see what I think.

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Im sure if you were gentle with the seal during installment it will be fine. Post up your shim stacks when you are thinking about changing them. By the way, if you are going to change your shim stacks to make it stiffer, you might be able to get away with just changing the clamp(smallest and last in the stack) but can't tell from th phone pictures. Will have to b posted to determine that so that diameters are more clearly identified compared to the blurry picture.

Edited by rjg

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Post up your shim stacks when you are thinking about changing them.


I posted the pictures of the shim stacks with the measurements below each shim. I can see it here but if it's hard for others to read I can type it out.

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If I'm reading your shim dimension sizes, they don't quite jive with what I've measured.  The largest diameter shims on the compression side should by 38mm diameter x 0.15mm thick.  On the rebound side, 34mm diameter x 0.15mm thick.

You've probably noticed that you need to ride with the rebound clicker adjusted fully soft. If you remove a single face shim from the rebound stack, then you're clicker position can be with the middle of its adjustment range.  For compression, I found the solution for this shock is to replace the two 0.1mm crossover shims with a single 0.15mm shim (start with about 24mm diameter.)

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If I'm reading your shim dimension sizes, they don't quite jive with what I've measured.  The largest diameter shims on the compression side should by 38mm diameter x 0.15mm thick.  On the rebound side, 34mm diameter x 0.15mm thick.
You've probably noticed that you need to ride with the rebound clicker adjusted fully soft. If you remove a single face shim from the rebound stack, then you're clicker position can be with the middle of its adjustment range.  For compression, I found the solution for this shock is to replace the two 0.1mm crossover shims with a single 0.15mm shim (start with about 24mm diameter.)

Yes you're right the rebound was all the way soft. And my measurements are close but maybe not perfect. Thanks for the reply.

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