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jetting advice needed - colorado

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Hello -  I have a 07 CRF230f and was in storage for a year or so.    Getting it all cleaned up and in the process removed and cleaned up the carb, and based on the research here, changed the jetting -  it has the airbox snorkel removed, but still have the exhaust baffle in.   I live in colo, so about 5,300 alt right now.

I put the following in based on the posts/recommendations/tables on here-  (hopefully somewhat correct based on altitude).

115 main jet

45 pilot

03-05 stock needle - clip in third position from the top

also have the crf's only extended fuel screw.

Plug is new/fresh gas.

starts right up, idles smooth like it never has before.  don't have to leave choke on for long etc.     However, when I hit 3/4 or so throttle, it bogs really bad -  is this too rich and should I keep adjusting to find the right setting on the extended fuel screw?  Right now it is about two turns out.

Or should I try moving the needle clip from the 3rd position to the 4th ?   Main jet and pilot seem ok for my altitude?   not sure what is causing the bogging, but again it idles steady and smooth.   thanks in advance for any input.

Edited by rckymtnhigh
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If you've left the baffle in the air flow will still be quite restricted. The 115 main jet may still be too big for this set up. Dropping the clip to the 4th notch will lean mixture off and may solve your bogging issue otherwise a smaller main might be the ticket. Removal of the baffle may solve the issue too.

 

 

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thanks guys -  the airbox snorkel is removed, just not the exhaust baffle.    Since I want to keep it fairly quiet, maybe I will try drilling a few holes in the exhaust baffle. and moving the clip down one notch on the needle.

if possibly the size of the main jet I have, any specific recommendation??

thanks

 

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Dropping the clip to the 4th notch will lean mixture off

Dropping the clip raises the needle.  Raising the needle richens the mixture.

I suspect you have a lean bog, so drop the clip to #4.

:ride:

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 I'm at the same elevation and ride down here ( Denver ) and Rampart . 110 main, 42 pilot, 3rd position on the clip. Runs good, will be interesting to see how it runs up high ( Now that the snow is finally melting! )

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The jetting chart and info is most excellent.  The only problem is, stock jetting is most often lean from the factory, and will not provide good base values.  But, we have learned over time that good base values for the 230F are main jet 120, needle from 03-05 etc.

Base values are for a standard day at sea level.  See Google.

:ride:

Edited by ramz

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On 6/15/2017 at 4:14 AM, VortecCPI said:

Always start by checking float level externally.  If it idles and runs fine from mid to top you likely have a plugged or restricted slow jet.

thanks for all the suggestions.   So I lowered the clip to the 4th position on the needle - the bog seemed a little worse at 1/2 to full throttle, so went back to 3rd position.   While I was working on the carb, I went ahead and changed the main jet from 115 to 112 -  not sure if that was needed or not at this point.   Before I took it for another ride, I checked the float level and below is a photo of the external float level using a tube on the drain valve, fuel tank to on, etc.   the yellow line is where my level is at - should it be at the green line or at or near the gasket??  I don't have a float level gauge yet, and still researching that process - should I adjust the floats so the external level to be at the green line??   If so, suggestions on the best process to adjust the floats?

As a side note -  when adjusting the idle mixture screw, I was able to turn it in all the way with not much change in the rpm's  - maybe slight decrease and slight stumble, but the engine still ran.   I assume the 45 pilot jet would still be ok?

 thanks

 

carb.jpg

Edited by rckymtnhigh

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thought I would provide a quick update - I adjusted the float level and installed the 112 main, from the 115 main and took it for a quick ride tonight -  much better, no bogging and so far so good.   I suspect the change in float level was the main factor rather than the 115 to 112 main change.   The level  below still looks a little low, but seems to be better than the above levels.  I still need to adjust the idle mixture screw, right now its 1 1/2 turns out.    thanks again for the input/suggestions.

 

carb 2 float level.JPG

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Who is it that suggests setting the float level before any other carb adjustments?

 

Good advice, Honda Guy  :thumbsup:

 

 

And it turned out to be a 'lean bog' after all... I just advised the wrong fix.

:ride:

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15 minutes ago, ramz said:

Who is it that suggests setting the float level before any other carb adjustments?

 

Good advice, Honda Guy  :thumbsup:

 

 

And it turned out to be a 'lean bog' after all... I just advised the wrong fix.

:ride:

This is something that I have mentioned for many years.  I used to tune Holleys and Q-Jets and fuel level is of paramount importance.  If your mains are a little fat you can lower the fuel level a bit.  If your mains are a little skinny you can raise the fuel level a bit. 

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7 hours ago, rckymtnhigh said:

thought I would provide a quick update - I adjusted the float level and installed the 112 main, from the 115 main and took it for a quick ride tonight -  much better, no bogging and so far so good.   I suspect the change in float level was the main factor rather than the 115 to 112 main change.   The level  below still looks a little low, but seems to be better than the above levels.  I still need to adjust the idle mixture screw, right now its 1 1/2 turns out.    thanks again for the input/suggestions.

Close enough if not dead on.

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thanks to both for the help and suggestions.   I was not sure on the float level, but seems to look correct now per Vortec.      Keeping fingers crossed it continues to run like it did last night.  Ramz, your site and all the resources were a huge help along the way for working on the carb.    I think I will stick with the 112 main for now, and get a 110 and 108 according to your site for higher elevations if needed now that I know how to replace it.    OR, maybe  the 112 suffice for say 5,000 to 9,000 ft - considering I am leaving the exhaust baffle in, and only removed the air box snorkel.       Next up is the shifter plate and the shifter star -   sometimes ( a lot), I cannot find first and I understand those two parts might be the culprit.   From what I read, remove the right crankcase cover after draining the oil, and I should be able to get to those two parts pretty easy.          I am happy the bike idles and runs good now -  I don't think it ever ran this well before.   Will take it for another test ride tonight.   It originally had the power up needle and the 132 main when I bought it several years ago.  I'm the second owner of it.   Appreciate the help!

Edited by rckymtnhigh

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thanks to both for the help and suggestions.   I was not sure on the float level, but seems to look correct now per Vortec.      Keeping fingers crossed it continues to run like it did last night.  Ramz, your site and all the resources were a huge help along the way for working on the carb.    I think I will stick with the 112 main for now, and get a 110 and 108 according to your site for higher elevations if needed now that I know how to replace it.    OR, maybe  the 112 suffice for say 5,000 to 9,000 ft?     Next up is the shifter plate and the shifter star -   sometimes ( a lot), I cannot find first and I understand those two parts might be the culprit.   From what I read, remove the right crankcase cover after draining the oil, and I should be able to get to those two parts pretty easy.          I am happy the bike idles and runs good now -  I don't think it ever ran this well before.   Will take it for another test ride tonight.   It originally had the power up needle and the 132 main when I bought it several years ago.  I'm the second owner of it.   Appreciate the help!


You may want to consider cleaning the centrifugal oil filter while your under the clutch cover.
It's right there on the end of the crankshaft.
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17 minutes ago, adnohguy said:

 


You may want to consider cleaning the centrifugal oil filter while your under the clutch cover.
It's right there on the end of the crankshaft.

 

good to know, thanks.    Also, would my assumption be right that I can get to both of those parts (shifter plate and star) w/o removing anything else (oil pump, etc) other than the crankcase cover.  Will replace the gasket if needed, but not planning on it if I don't need to.  

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I would try the 42 pilot. Main and needle can be rich, especially main.. Pilot needs to be right on.. You should need choke and no throttle to start and focus on a good low idle then adjust it up slightly.. The needle setting affects fuel mileage.

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Put a single wrap of clear packing tape over the shifter splines before you pull the shaft out to avoid cutting the seal with sharp edges. Install the new shaft the same way.

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