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Proper break in

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I rebuilt my 4 stroke but not the piston.. I only replaced my cylinder head and camshafts... Do I still need to do my typical 4 stoke break in still or can I get straight to ripping since I didn't redo the piston? 

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That stuff still needs to seat in.  You will need to check your valve clearances after a few hours.

But the real question is this.  Why on earth did you go that far and at least not replace the piston and rings?  That's crazy, IMO.  Its like replacing the pilot bearing for the clutch in a car and not bothering to replace the clutch while you are there.

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What model of bike? Most aftermarket cam manufacturers recommended Dino oil and not to let it idle for extended periods. You don't need to baby it(which is not a good idea for even a new engine), but don't go bouncing it off the rev limiter right away either.

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4 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

Most aftermarket cam manufacturers recommended Dino oil

I don't think he has to worry about using Dino oil since he didn't replace the piston/rings/cylinder. They recommend Dino oil on new piston/rings so the slicker oil doesn't blow by a ring that isn't fully broken in yet...someone chime in if I'm wrong.

 

I'm pretty sure he will be fine using whatever oil he used previously.

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I don't think he has to worry about using Dino oil since he didn't replace the piston/rings/cylinder. They recommend Dino oil on new piston/rings so the slicker oil doesn't blow by a ring that isn't fully broken in yet...someone chime in if I'm wrong.
 
I'm pretty sure he will be fine using whatever oil he used previously.


Since all 3 of my 4 strokes have aftermarket cams and Web and Hotcams both recommend it, allow me to chime in and reinterate my previous statement.

Does it matter? That's not for me to decide.
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1 minute ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

So you didnt rebuild anything...you just replaced a couple parts...the initial BUILD isnt just a couple parts.

Builds a cool word.

You reuse condoms too?

Completely redoing the entire valve train sounds like a rebuild to me.. I didn't replace the cylinder or piston because upon inspection they looked great. 

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Again, the initial BUILD wasnt just valves.

You replaced valves.

And the fact that you said "looked fine" says amateur all over it. You measured nothing? Measured the cylinder for out of round? Measure for warpage? You cant just look at something and see its fine. Unless you can see .001mm...

Do a comp test? Do a leakdown test? 

Its always the cut corner cats that has the next problem.

The initial build didnt have any corners cut.

I dont like spending money either

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53 minutes ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

Again, the initial BUILD wasnt just valves.

You replaced valves.

And the fact that you said "looked fine" says amateur all over it. You measured nothing? Measured the cylinder for out of round? Measure for warpage? You cant just look at something and see its fine. Unless you can see .001mm...

Do a comp test? Do a leakdown test? 

Its always the cut corner cats that has the next problem.

The initial build didnt have any corners cut.

I dont like spending money either

Geez...take it easy. Not sure why you're being so harsh on the guy. I'm guessing you're a motorcycle mechanic for a living that isn't happy with people doing things themselves?

Sure sounds that way.

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Don't start it and let it slow idle. have your gear on and go. Use whatever oil and a new filter, use what your ok dumping out after a few hours. Probably not boutique store $ynthetic,

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2 hours ago, Force10 said:

Geez...take it easy. Not sure why you're being so harsh on the guy. I'm guessing you're a motorcycle mechanic for a living that isn't happy with people doing things themselves?

Sure sounds that way.

Im not being harsh. Im being real. Truth hurts. More times than I can count, people have said, it was just rebuilt. But it wasn't. And whatever the problem is now is something that its time was. Pro or not, I only want to go into a motor once. But the pro way to do it, is to do it so you dont have to go in again. Preventative maintenance really. 

Ill do your work for free if you live near San Diego or Los Angeles. You buy me parts and Monsters.

A little goes a long way. Problem is doing a little doesn't always cost a little. But it sounds like you are lacking something. Ill help. Sorry for being a dick. Thousand dollar machines aren't just a single expense.

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2 hours ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

Im not being harsh. Im being real. Truth hurts. More times than I can count, people have said, it was just rebuilt. But it wasn't. And whatever the problem is now is something that its time was. Pro or not, I only want to go into a motor once. But the pro way to do it, is to do it so you dont have to go in again. Preventative maintenance really. 

Ill do your work for free if you live near San Diego or Los Angeles. You buy me parts and Monsters.

A little goes a long way. Problem is doing a little doesn't always cost a little. But it sounds like you are lacking something. Ill help. Sorry for being a dick. Thousand dollar machines aren't just a single expense.

Youll do my work for free? Wow what a great guy I'm so happy that you will.. Listen dude I'm a 16 year old kid with no money and doing all this crap was a stretch paying for what I did do. And with the cylinder and piston, I took it to a shop and had it looked at.. They said it looked good. How much of a washed out loser do you have to be to talk trash over the internet as a grown adult, if that's all your gonna do then gtfo

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1 hour ago, Ewanziak said:

Youll do my work for free? Wow what a great guy I'm so happy that you will.. Listen dude I'm a 16 year old kid with no money and doing all this crap was a stretch paying for what I did do. And with the cylinder and piston, I took it to a shop and had it looked at.. They said it looked good. How much of a washed out loser do you have to be to talk trash over the internet as a grown adult, if that's all your gonna do then gtfo

Again, its real talk. Not trash talk. If you went to a pro to get this done, youd be saying how you got trash work.

I could've guessed 16 years old and bit off more than you can chew. 

Theres hundreds of parts in there. Theyre all supposed to be specifically a certain way, or it wont work. Sounds like you escaped some specifics and are now feeling it. If you lived on my block or came into any of my businesses, youd hear me talk ish directly. But we are ON the internet, so the ish talking takes place over the internet.  Whether Im an adult or a child...Im right.

If a shop checked it out, all should be good.

Somethings missing. 

Yes Ill do this work for free, you buy parts and energy drinks. San Diego.

Welcome to the game

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5 hours ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

Again, its real talk. Not trash talk. If you went to a pro to get this done, youd be saying how you got trash work.

I could've guessed 16 years old and bit off more than you can chew. 

Theres hundreds of parts in there. Theyre all supposed to be specifically a certain way, or it wont work. Sounds like you escaped some specifics and are now feeling it. If you lived on my block or came into any of my businesses, youd hear me talk ish directly. But we are ON the internet, so the ish talking takes place over the internet.  Whether Im an adult or a child...Im right.

If a shop checked it out, all should be good.

Somethings missing. 

Yes Ill do this work for free, you buy parts and energy drinks. San Diego.

Welcome to the game

Real talk your a complete dickhead, regardless of your opinions theres no reason to behave the way you are. Your obvious superiority complex needs to be kept under wraps.

Edited by Scottwr12345
Typo
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I rebuilt my 4 stroke but not the piston.. I only replaced my cylinder head and camshafts... Do I still need to do my typical 4 stoke break in still or can I get straight to ripping since I didn't redo the piston? 


Keep this simple on this as described. No break in needed here. Get on and ride normally. Do at least one oil change quickly. Ride on.
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How is this excercising superiority?

Im AM a total dickhead...and its gotten me way further in this industry than anyone on this topic combined can compare to. 

What it comes down to, is that these youngens will buy a thousand dollar machine and not buy a thirty dollar manual.

None of my professors were nice guys. And I learned a ton.

My apologies OP.

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13 minutes ago, FaceDeAce said:

 


Keep this simple on this as described. No break in needed here. Get on and ride normally. Do at least one oil change quickly. Ride on.

 

Thanks, did this and so far she's riding like a dream! Really happy, this is my first time doing my own work on the bike and I'm glad everything is working :)

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Don't start it and let it slow idle. have your gear on and go. Use whatever oil and a new filter, use what your ok dumping out after a few hours. Probably not boutique store $ynthetic,

For sure! A new cam in a car or truck, you would put it in time then bump the idle up to 2500 rpm. Not in a bike but it makes sense to go out and rip it hard. In 40 years I just look and if it looks good upon inspection, run it.

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5 minutes ago, trackmaster said:


For sure! A new cam in a car or truck, you would put it in time then bump the idle up to 2500 rpm. Not in a bike but it makes sense to go out and rip it hard. In 40 years I just look and if it looks good upon inspection, run it.

Maybe because the valve springs are so light in a bike.  but the cam still turns 1/2 crank speed so if idle at 800 cam is turning 400 not fast enough to surf the oil film. Agree sure it'll be fine.

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10 hours ago, highmarker said:

Maybe because the valve springs are so light in a bike.  but the cam still turns 1/2 crank speed so if idle at 800 cam is turning 400 not fast enough to surf the oil film. Agree sure it'll be fine.

If you rolled a basketball and a baseball at the same speed, which ball( amount of circumference) has more rotations per minute?

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