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Lock nut spanner, rear shock help

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I'm sure this is out there somewhere but I'll be damned if I can find it. It's not in my Clymer, dimensions are not listed in OEM schematics I can find, nothing here or on ADV about it.

All I need to know is the size (in mm) of the lock nut and the adjustment nut for the rear shock of the XR650L. Why so hard? Am I a bonehead?

I want to avoid buying one of those adjustable spanners, both because they look cheap and I've heard people around here and elsewhere say that only the most basic flat spanner can reach the rings without having to pull the air box. I commute daily without a passenger, but get into dirt loaded a couple times a year, and go on longer rides with passenger, so regular suspension adjustment is necessary for me. Thanks in advance.

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Sorry, not done a ton of suspension work. What is wide drift? I'm imagining that it has to be some sort of handle so you can actually use that tear-drop tool you sent me a link to?

 

Seems like it could work, but I really just want a low profile spanner that will do the trick. Something with the reach, and that's light weight(ish) and a single piece for adjustments on the fly.

Thanks,

John

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Understood, but I've heard multiple people say that doesn't work on an XR without pulling the carb and air box out. This is my first XR, after years on KLRs, so I'm not sure. If what you're saying is true, then that's what I'll do.

Thanks

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Well, you didnt say shock was still on the bike...yes that takes some maneuvering. I just assumed itd be off but I see where the airbox comment hints that youd like to tighten up when a passenger gets on, or when you go on dirt. The wrench i used at Honda would be tougher to work all mounted, than a screwdriver sneaking in there. Taking the shock off might be as much work as getting hammering access.

Oh, and i put a little rubber nipple over the flathead, helps not make as many dents...I do this to my bikes only not a customers bike

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Ok maybe didn't say the shock was still on, but did say I'm trying to find a way to do this on the fly, and having the shock off the bike isn't exactly on the fly :naughty:

Just to clarify, you're saying that screwdriver or wrench, there's really no good way to adjust the shock while it's on the bike, if you're out in the field, is that right? Bummer! And thanks for input, been trying to read about this all day, and there just isn't that good a resource for a question like that. So thanks.

And in any case, the original question remains: What are the dimensions of the lock ring and the adjustment nut? I'd still like to have both the wrench and the screw driver as options when I do the work this weekend. If airbox and carb have to come out, or if shock has to come off I'll cross that bridge when I come to it, but if there's a way to avoid either I want to give it a shot.

Edited by johngang
need to clarify the first sentence

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Ya man. I have a hard time picking up on the obvious sometimes.

    
    001    SPANNER A, PIN 
89201-KA4-811    
    002    SPANNER B, PIN 
89202-KA4-811

Top and bottom nuts are different thats why you need two. I have a thick matco screwdriver a friend used to pry something that wouldn't pry, so the tip snapped and the tips too thick now for a screw so its my tool for this, this methods much easier than the tool too unless you put a long pipe on it to get more pull. 

714-842-5533, is my source

HB Honda parts dept

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Dude it's cake,
Hit off the lock ring till loose.
Rear wheel off ground to unload the shock.
Spin the damn spring with your hands and it'll turn the ring with it.
There's not much else to type about.

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ok chill, glad to hear it. i get all &%$#@!ed up in these forums reading about a million ways to do a damn simple thing but this makes more sense to me than anything i read yet

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2 hours ago, MeCH_MaN said:

Dude it's cake,
Hit off the lock ring till loose.
Rear wheel off ground to unload the shock.
Spin the damn spring with your hands and it'll turn the ring with it.
There's not much else to type about.

Great point on the spring. I dont know about on the fly. But on the stand ill do it like that if I can wrap my fingers.

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All of those symbols at the beginning of your second sentence , you are going to be using them a LOT.   :smirk: It's a BIG pain in the ass to do this , no matter how you try it.

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4 minutes ago, notoriousE-R-I-C said:

Great point on the spring. I dont know about on the fly. But on the stand ill do it like that if I can wrap my fingers.

You can't get your hands in there anyway. I could break most peoples hands with my grip and I can't do this by hand.

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Ampersand you Joe, Ampersand you...

Yeah right, youd probably ampersand me up!

;)

Ya it is tight. That is far from the way Id do it. Im not sure how thatd be possible on the fly.

Again, hammer and screwdriver, tap tap tap quarter turns.

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I squirt a bunch of penetrating lube to flush out the grit, then knock locking ring loose with a long punch and hammer. Then sometimes grabbing the spring and turning will turn the adjusting ring. then lock back down with lock ring. You check your sag ? You may have to re-spring to get it right. If I were you, I'd dial it in for your extreme weight, the adjusters dont keep you much in the the sweet spot if your too loaded, need right weight spring.

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You'll definitely want the rear wheel off the ground when turning the spring.  Removing the rear mud flap also helps to grip the spring with both hands.

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