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2000 yz426f linkage bearings.

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Alright guys. I ordered a full linkage bearing kit, cost me 70 bucks. My linkage bearings have play when you list the rear of the bike up. No side to side play, just up and down and it's annoying. I want everything to be perfect. I did my front wheel bearings a while ago seeing they were completely trashed. Swingarm bearings seem right and so do the rear wheel bearings. I took those out when I replaced my rear tire last weekend and greased them all up. So my question. About the linkage bearings is, how big of a job is it and do I need any special tools? I got my Clymer manual to help me out but I'm confident I could do it on my own. Also, I should probably repack all the bearings with some good grease instead of the crap bearings usually come with right? I'm about to head out the door to get the linkage off. Thank you.

Btw. I'd love to get rid of this over sized tank. I don't have any use for it and makes it feel awkward when riding. It's in great shape. I don't know if anyone wants to make a trade for a decent stocker.

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Edited by Rm25088

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I did my rear linkage bearings by hanging the bike by the front wheel from my engine crane. It was super easy. A couple different sized sockets to push the bearings in, no special tools. 

 I'm not sure my bike was all stock, because the shocks bushings from the kit did not fit. 

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My shock bearing didn't fit either? The inner diameter hole was much larger in the kit. I was kinda bummed but whatever. I didn't replace it. It looked like a rod end that I use at work all the time. It had no up and down play and was still tight. I did all the others though and man let me tell you. That sucked! Every single needle bearing was rusted and seized to hell. The needles themselves were rotting and there was water inside all of them. I don't think they used any grease at all when they did them last, unless they were 17 years old. I used sockets and my vise and heat to get them all out. Then used my vise to put the new ones in. Gotta improvise when you don't have a hydraulic press. It's all back together and it definitely feels tighter. Shock feels better, seems a little taller even. I'm glad I decided to do it. I also went overload on grease. Tons of grease on every bearing, bolt, bushing. I used high temp wheel bearing grease. It's blue. Forgot the name. It hasnt failed me yet.

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Edited by Rm25088

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Now I just need to get a new silencer and possibly the FMF bomb header. As you can see my header is dented. I do believe it's after market, but there's no name on it and the I'd tag on the silencer is gone. I don't think it's work repacking this silencer. It's all mis shapened when it connects to the mid pipe and it leaks. It sounds not that great because there's no packing in it. I'm just going to bite the bullet and get a FMF powercore 4. I love that 4 stroke thump and this exhaust doesn't have it. Possible because of the no packing or the baffle. I really wish I knew the brand. Could be some cool old school exhaust that hasn't been made in years. Doesn't look like a procurcuit and it's definitely not stock. I'll take pictures in a couple minutes.

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I packed my stock muffler with stainless steel pot scrubbing pads from the dollar store. It worked great. I pop riveted the muffler end back on. 

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Yeah this exhaust is just to beat up for my liking. So i got a fmf powercore 4 with powerbomb header combo coming in the mail soon. $419 bucks. But i paid 45 bucks for priority mail. I hate waiting for stuff. Heres a little ride i took tonight to make sure everything was good. She passed.

 

 

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check the bottom shock bearing,,I had same issue and found it was the shock bearing.. if so, be warned they press in and out hard  : 0

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Yup it sure is. Thats why its a lot quieter now. Fmf powercore with the powerbomb header quieted it down a lot. Still sounds good though. And if I really wanted to make it quieter, id get the quiet insert. But I dont ride on the road. Only for testing purposes, and thats as far as ill go.

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On 7/23/2017 at 0:54 PM, Vozz said:

check the bottom shock bearing,,I had same issue and found it was the shock bearing.. if so, be warned they press in and out hard  : 0

Bottom shock bearing was still nice and tight. No up and down play. The kit came with one but it is a different size. Unless the bearing goes into the bottom of the shock and theres 2 bushings that fit into the bearing. Thats the only way i can see it working.

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