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Keeping bike at idle

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For those guys who bike are set up.to idle maybe 5 secs then die off if you were like me- having to hold the throttle to warm up and also to keep it idling maybe after a wash. I dont want  to increase  idle on the carb only when warm up and after washing would i need it to idle.  Out of pure laziness i figured  out a way to keep my bike at whatever idle speedi wanted  just for that period.i needed it for.

It may have been done before  but i never saw anypost like it. For those like me who dontnhave a solution yet. Please see pic .twist  throttle  at required speed. Attach clamp and let it seat on brake lever. Remove when done.

 

Cheers 

Rajiv

 

 

 

20170624_095920.jpg

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I've developed a solution through the years to the idle issue.. Turn the idle screw on the carb in until it idles, problem solved. This ain't 1982 anymore, kill switches work now. No rational reason in modern times to set a bike up to where it won't idle..

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My bike idles fine. But some people have it set like you do. 

I can say those grips you got on are the best. Tag rebounds, too bad they got discontinued

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2 hours ago, rmkillasan said:

For those guys who bike are set up.to idle maybe 5 secs then die off if you were like me- having to hold the throttle to warm up and also to keep it idling maybe after a wash. I dont want  to increase  idle on the carb only when warm up and after washing would i need it to idle.  Out of pure laziness i figured  out a way to keep my bike at whatever idle speedi wanted  just for that period.i needed it for.

It may have been done before  but i never saw anypost like it. For those like me who dontnhave a solution yet. Please see pic .twist  throttle  at required speed. Attach clamp and let it seat on brake lever. Remove when done.

 

Cheers 

Rajiv

 

 

 

20170624_095920.jpg

Why the hell do you have your bike set up to idle for a few sec and die? The right solution is to set your bike up correctly.

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7 hours ago, SenorThumpy said:

Why the hell do you have your bike set up to idle for a few sec and die? The right solution is to set your bike up correctly.

having it rich down low will increase low end torque, or so I have been told MANY times.

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Although my YZ is jetted a tad lean on the bottom (that's how it gets best throttle response)

one possible advantage for jetting it richer (at the cost of loading up if idled for too long)

is more engine cooling when letting off the throttle at the end off a long pull.

With RPMs still high and the throttle shut, it's only feeding off the pilot jet. Fuel cools the internals.

Edited by mlatour
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16 hours ago, 91kdx25088 said:

having it rich down low will increase low end torque, or so I have been told MANY times.

not to the point where it dies after a few sec on idle! If the bike dies that quickly, you're going to negate any potential increase in low end performance with lack of throttle response. If it dies that quickly i'm surprised its not bogging TBH. On top of that, its a 2t... being in the right gear and slipping the clutch should be second nature on a 2t. If you need more power down low, slip her a bit. If thats too much trouble, buy a 4t or a 300 2t. If you need the low end for the woods and you're on a MX bike, buy an enduro bike which has a more appropriate and usable power delivery for the terrain. Tuning your bike to run like shit so it runs better doesn't make any sense. 

11 hours ago, mlatour said:

Although my YZ is jetted a tad lean on the bottom (that's how it gets best throttle response)

one possible advantage for jetting it richer (at the cost of loading up if idled for too long)

is more engine cooling when letting off the throttle at the end off a long pull.

With RPMs still high and the throttle shut, it's only feeding off the pilot jet. Fuel cools the internals.

I can see how someone would think that but unless you're off throttle for a stupid long time at high rpm (like not just going down a hill but the entire mountain) or your bike is stupid lean and ready to grenade anyways, this doesn't actually make alot of sense. The fuel thats left in the bottom end of the motor is cooling the internals and being pulled into the chamber. Also since you're not on the throttle, the motor is not consuming anywhere near the amount of fuel it does on throttle (pilot jet is sufficient) nor is it producing anywhere near the amount of heat it does on throttle. Add in the whole cooling system... this is kinda silly. 

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Keep in mind that throttle tube under the grip is plastic and will eventually crack and break, potentially causing a runaway throttle situation, which could cause a big crash or blow your motor.  

Seems like a big risk to take because you haven't set your idle properly.

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I think you guys are wayy overthinking this. Firstly i have my bike set short idle because i PREFER it that way. It does not affect my riding. It does.not shut of on falls. Its just long enough for. I do not need my bike idling all day. Ths point of this clamp was to basically choose different rpms not just idle!! So i could run the bike at say 3000 2000 rpm or whatever. To do that otherwise i would have had to use thr idle screw adj everytime. Lets not get into a debate of whethernor not bikes should idle pleasee.

And the clamp does not exert much force to remotely collapse the tube.

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Lots of MX guys set up for no idle 2 strokes.   I've seen a shocking amount of woods guys fight it. 

 A rich bottom will have better roll on. If it's rich with a higher idle many bikes will Bong  and surge on decel.  Many drop the idle so it wont . 

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