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rekluse developed a rattle today...

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been hard on my clutch lately.  the clutch probably has around 70 hours on it.   ive never been into a rekluse before, I know normal clutches very well.

 

stopped today and could hear something in there rotating, while idiling, and it almost sounded like it was rubbing the side of the cover... what could this be?

 

also kind of felt like it was slipping a little today.. bike seemed to rev a little high and make a lot of noise, and not necessarily rocket forward like it normally does.

 

what should I be looking for/at?  what are the wear items in a rekluse? is there any adjusters?  tips? advice?  anything?

 

 

thanks!!

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1. Check the pressure plate adjuster set screws.
2. The Wedges, depending on if they are 2.0 bearing or 3.0 Teflon.
3. The Center Clutch lock tab washer

What model of Rekluse do you have and What Bike?

If your clutch is slipping, have you recently checked free play gain? You may need a new clutch pack. The EXP 3.0 is a pretty Stout clutch, in my opinion, and you may need to change out your frictions and steels...

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1. Check the pressure plate adjuster set screws.
2. The Wedges, depending on if they are 2.0 bearing or 3.0 Teflon.
3. The Center Clutch lock tab washer

What model of Rekluse do you have and What Bike?

If your clutch is slipping, have you recently checked free play gain? You may need a new clutch pack. The EXP 3.0 is a pretty Stout clutch, in my opinion, and you may need to change out your frictions and steels...

Or you can try to adjust the Pressure plate adjuster...

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I honestly have no idea what model... how do I check from the outside? or will my internals instantly tell the story?

 

I will take it apart, familiarize myself with it, and post a ton of pics.  its on a 12 ktm 250sx.

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I would suggest going to the Rekluse website and getting the customer support #... Contact them. They are great to work with and will help resolve your issues...
Do you have a Rekluse slave cylinder on the left hand side near your front sprocket​ or a stock slave cylinder?

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To check the free play gain, start the bike in neutral, let the bike idle, put a small amount of pressure on your clutch lever, Rev the engine to about 5000rpm...
Does the clutch lever move? If it moves, how much? 1/4"? 1"? All the way to the grip?

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thanks for the help.  its got the rekluse cover, the freeplay in my lever is about 1/4" or so when revved.  everything seems to work fine. it almost maybe seemed to be slipping, and a bad rattle in it. I coilda swore I was gonna hav a circle hole worn through my cover.  guess not.

 

took it all apart, nothing alarming.  the one plate closest to the engine looked a tad darker. the others werent too bad.  no horrible oil, oil drain magnet wasnt bad, clutch basket had very minor grooving. pressure plate and hub faces didnt show any major wear or grooves.

 

what would of caused the rattling/grinding sound when idiling?  and maybe even when riding.. not sure.   I erased the video I had of it :(

 

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Started it up. Let it idle In the shop. Engaged it a few times. Was a little hard to find neutral. The sound went away though. Nothing seemed loose when I took it apart. Maybe my oil was just really shot?

 

On every second friction plate tab. They've got two U shaped cutouts. Should those all line up when re installing my plates?

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I would suggest replacing the friction and drive plates. I wouldn't say your basket is extremely bad, but it could be swapped out. Rekluse has a solid basket.
If I understand correctly, the U Shape cutouts should line up.

Your oil does look hammered. Definitely begin changing oil more frequently

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I usually change oil every second ride. Must have forgotten and went three or more on this. I run a tad extra too. 800 or so ml of rotella t 15w40. The basket pics make it look worse than it is. I've seen baskets with horrible grooves. Files them. And they worked fine for another two years. This baskets grooves are hardly noticeable, it is odd to see them on the backside though. Most of the time it doesn't get too hung up and it does find neutral pretty easy for the most part. I'll prob give it a quick file tbh and replace the plates. In two years I'll replace it all.

 

I'll order new plates for sure. Any kind/brand will work? What's the point of those u shaped cutouts? Maybe I should tear it apart again and match them up. Damnit.

 

How about the special centrifugal force rekluse disk? Anything in there ever need to get replaced? This kit sure looks the same as stock... Sure don't get much for $1200 eh!!!

 

 

so... plates.  

 

tusk kit for $60?

Barnett Dirt Digger (our usual) for $130? comes with new springs.

OEM KTM for $200 ish

or rekluse plates for probably $200 or so?

 

 

 

Edited by cdf450

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I recommend OEM or Rekluse, I've had both and they have the same markings and look the same.  Depending on source you can buy 8 Honda frictions for $70-$90.  The Rotella 15W-40 works good but I prefer a good motorcycle synthetic for the engine side.  You can also tune clutch operation with the oil; thinner provides less drag and quicker hookup, thicker the opposite.  Dextron ATF smooths the final hookup.  Just make sure the oil is suitable for a wet clutch and gears, any JASO-MA or ATF is OK, as are some engine oils like Rotella T or T6.  Synthetic ATF and engine oils can be quite thin, dino ATF is about like straight 30wt. Rotella T oil is recommended by Rekluse.
One symptom of Rekluse clutches is clutch squeal under a lot of slip (my 05 X does), regular clutches can also do the same (my XR does); it is caused by the rivet cushions being worn and not damping clutch vibration. Rekluse recommendation is to use a heavier oil, or replace the basket.  I've had to use Rotella T and Torco 20W-50 in my X to help dampen the noise.

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I'm a big Yamalube fanboy, but that's another story...
There is a Bellville spring on the Core EXP 3.0 That needs properly torqued.
I'd change the oil, new frictions and steels, and call it a day..
When you install the new frictions and drive plates, you will need to readjust your gap due to the thickness of the new vs the worn out old...

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I'm a huge rotella t fanboy!! Nearly 400 engine hours via hour meter on my crf. Same with the clutch. But that's another story. Rotella t is good stuff.

Where exactly is that Belleville washer/spring? I know my buddies 16xc has one. But I didn't see it in mine. You sure mine has one?

Oil is already changed. Disks are gonna get ordered tonight once I decide what brand. And a light filing of the basket too when the new plates arrive.

How do I adjust the gap? Where do I measure this gap from? And what should the measurement be

Is that the little silver centre piece on the pressure plate? The centre piece in the very first picture with the two Allen key slots?

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Go to the Rekluse web site and download the instructions for your clutch and bike model/year. The Core units have a different adjustment than the EXP units. I found on my Core 3 that the gap adjustment didn't provide enough drag at idle so I'm running less so I have drag at idle like my EXP 3.0.

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Go to the Rekluse web site and download the instructions for your clutch and bike model/year. The Core units have a different adjustment than the EXP units. I found on my Core 3 that the gap adjustment didn't provide enough drag at idle so I'm running less so I have drag at idle like my EXP 3.0.

This is your best bet. The Rekluse guys will give you more accurate information than I can.

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On 6/27/2017 at 0:32 PM, hostile silence said:


There is a Bellville spring on the Core EXP 3.0 That needs properly torqued.
 

Are you saying that the core kit for a 2012 bike changes the factory clutch from a coil spring operated pressure plate to a Bellville spring operated one? As the Bellville spring didn't come into use by KTM until the 2013 year model. May be the reason why he's not seeing one.

Make sure the rubber isolators/bumpers on the backside of the basket are not worn out. Those need replacing periodically.

Edited by Trailryder42
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I got the Barnett plates. Barnett treated me amazingly for my crf450. After four years, their basket with ss tabs on the fingers developed very minor grooves. I shipped it to them for $22. They replaced them all and shipped back to Canada, all on their dime. They had it back on the road within two days. It was awesome. Barnett is bad ass

 

My clutch seems fine for now.... Should I change em. Or really work them and get all the life k can squeeze outta them??

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