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Crf front master ergonomics

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I have a 05 rm 250. Love the bike. It runs great besides the front brakes. I plan on doing the crf front master mod, however I'm worried about the reservoir interfering with my throttle housing. 

I know the hondas reservoirs are mounted slightly higher then the rms. And I like my levers just about flat with the bars so I can use them as I'm in the throttle. 

The way it's setup now with the stock Suzuki master already interferes with the way I prefer to run my controls. The throttle housing sits directly on top of my master cap. And forces me to run my lever low. 

Any thought ? Or does somebody have a picture of their setup with the Honda master ?

also ( I know I can find this elsewhere ) but can I use my steel braided Suzuki line with the Honda master ? I'd hate to have to get a new one. 

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I wouldn't bother with the Honda master cylinder.  Go with the stock master cylinder and a braided line first, that might do it.  If you still need more braking power then go with an oversize rotor. 

 

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I have an brand new oversized rotor and new pads. Didn't do anything. Like not even alittle bit. My lever goes right to my grip. With very little pressure. 

One would think " bleed the brakes ".... I've done that. Like 100 times.  And still nothing. 

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For my rm. I took the caliper off the disc and bled them just a tad bit with out the disc between the pads to get a tighter tolerance. Put the caliper back on the bike. Road the bike and it was perfect. Before that my front brake sucked.

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20 hours ago, Mtl400 said:

I have a brand new oversized rotor and new pads. Didn't do anything. Like not even alittle bit. My lever goes right to my grip. With very little pressure. 

One would think " bleed the brakes ".... I've done that. Like 100 times.  And still nothing. 

Something is wrong, go for bleed #101.  The lever should never go all the way to the bar.

Just wondering though, if you just replaced the rotor and pads then why did you have to bleed the brake in the first place? 

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i bled them because they feel like there is air in them. I got the pads and rotor as a gift.  So I threw them on.  

I know it's a pressure problem, not a contact problem between the pads and rotor. It feels like tons of air in the line. But I've tried every different method. Such as the mity vac pump, injecting the fluid from the caliper up to the master, the traditional way pumping up and holding. I'd like to think there is no way there could be air in there. However I've been wrong before lol 

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1 hour ago, Mtl400 said:

i bled them because they feel like there is air in them. I got the pads and rotor as a gift.  So I threw them on.  

I know it's a pressure problem, not a contact problem between the pads and rotor. It feels like tons of air in the line. But I've tried every different method. Such as the mity vac pump, injecting the fluid from the caliper up to the master, the traditional way pumping up and holding. I'd like to think there is no way there could be air in there. However I've been wrong before lol 

Take the brake assembly off the bike. Bench bleed it. Put something between the pads when bleeding or the calipers piston will shoot out and you'll have a mess. Bleed and bleed until you get every bit of air. And force fluid through as well to push the air out. Bleeding on the bike will do you no good. 

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So I bled then off the bike and they were still spongy. So I'm thinking maybe the master is bad. Or the seals on the piston anyway. So I took it apart and found that the piston was starting to scrap off the inside of the master because the seals are wore out. 

Its tough to see in the picture but the edges of the spiral on the piston is discolored and polished off. So I'm thinking the seals are worn out, and this could be why I can't get any pressure. 

I overnighted an oem rebuild kit. So tomorrow I'll throw it on and see if it helps. 

image.jpg

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So I put the master rebuild kit in and wow what a night and day difference. 

Its not like my buddies 17 Honda but I can't complain for a bike that was designed in 05. 

And im finally getting the effects of the oversized rotor up front. 

Thanks for all the input. I think everyone should try rebuilding the master before the crf swap. 

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