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16' 300rr EATS new dash batteries (CR2032)

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Hi guys. First time poster on here.

2 weeks ago I bought a 2016 300rr. The "Low Battery" warning icon was on the computer. So I changed the battery out for a new one (CR2032 btw)

About 5 mins later the Low battery icon appeared on the dash again. I thought maybe I had a faulty battery but it has happened again with 2 more new batteries.

I rang the dealer I bought it off today and he told me to check some connectors that hang under the main battery behind the left side number plate. These look fine to my untrained eye. (Ive never had a bike with electronics before. Always had Motocross bikes) Pics below...

I 'm waiting on a reply from the dealer but I thought I would ask you guys also in case you might have run into the problem before and knew a fix for it? Also the dealer is over 2 hours away so would love to fix it myself without having to travel.

Cheers dudes!

 

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If anything I'd take the connections apart, clean them with contact cleaner, and apply a little dielectric grease and see if that fixes the problem.

 

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There is already a thread on this issue.

IMHO, the batteries are defective in every case. I had to buy 10 before I found batteries that would last more than 2 months.

Others here believe that batteries are somehow supposed to be charged by the electrcial system, keeping them alive.  No proof has been offered of this.

The last battery I installed has lasted 7 mo now.

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5 minutes ago, David C said:

Got mine November of 13, still has original battery. Bike must be doing something.

Same here.  My bike is a 2015 and I've never changed the battery.

 

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Hi guys. First time poster on here.
2 weeks ago I bought a 2016 300rr. The "Low Battery" warning icon was on the computer. So I changed the battery out for a new one (CR2032 btw)
About 5 mins later the Low battery icon appeared on the dash again. I thought maybe I had a faulty battery but it has happened again with 2 more new batteries.
I rang the dealer I bought it off today and he told me to check some connectors that hang under the main battery behind the left side number plate. These look fine to my untrained eye. (Ive never had a bike with electronics before. Always had Motocross bikes) Pics below...
I 'm waiting on a reply from the dealer but I thought I would ask you guys also in case you might have run into the problem before and knew a fix for it? Also the dealer is over 2 hours away so would love to fix it myself without having to travel.
Cheers dudes!
 
595a4eb71747c_MP1.jpg.3dd87899c1636b262143acb6cdc78a60.jpg595a4eb5e88e7_MP3.jpg.e4626f9554936f53c77a3bce37ebc750.jpg595a4eb430d07_MP2.jpg.d75366f3203e7384f4486c7d6c46e5d7.jpg
 

Remove the insulation off those two components, inside you will find one large capacitor in one & three diodes in the other. Check for water contamination & or broken wires. Also check your main earths, two on the ignition coil & one large one from the battery to the frame under the rear of the tank.
Hope this helps.
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7 hours ago, Still-learning said:


Remove the insulation off those two components, inside you will find one large capacitor in one & three diodes in the other. Check for water contamination & or broken wires. Also check your main earths, two on the ignition coil & one large one from the battery to the frame under the rear of the tank.
Hope this helps.

Thanks man! Didn't want to go digging in there if there was no need too, but it looks like you were 100% correct.  Opened up the capacitor and sure enough there was some old brown water residue in there. Capacitor also has a small dent in it.

All cleaned and dry now and wrapped and greased up and so far so good.

edit: 20 mins later.... Low battery is flashing up on the dash. Might it be the dent in the capacitor thats causing it?

 

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Edited by SmokerStroker

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What the capacitor does is smooth out voltage spikes, hard to explain but an engine does not have a consistent rhythmic rotation (dang dang dang) the capacitor stores & hold a charge for the inbetween dangs if you will to smooth it out the voltage. If it is damaged like that, I would replace it.

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Cheers fella. Yea the dealer says he is sending me out a replacement capacitor. Hopefully that'll sort it out.

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I had the same problem on my 2016 250rr.  Used several fresh date coded Energizer batteries.  In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with your bike or the battery other than a design that will rapidly drain the CR2032 battery.  I eventually fixed mine by wiring the 12 volt battery into the bike electrical system (lights, odometer, horn, etc.).  There are various ways to do this.  The 12 volt battery is normally isolated from the bike electrical system for all purposes other than starting.

I have my opinion about root cause which I won't go into and it doesn't matter anyway.  Bottom line is that tapping the 12 volt battery was the only way I was able to fix it.

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I am on my original battery on my 2016 Beta 300rr RE.  Bought it brand new and have owned it for one year 4 months.  I keep waiting for it to go dead but it hasn't shown any sign of it yet.

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I replaced 10+ stock computer batteries and the replacement computer battery died half way through the first ride. I'll check the capacitor to see if it's dented and grease all the connections. I read a while back that some folks think the problem has something to do with the oil injection. I'd really hope I can figure this out soon so I can have a functioning odometer. 

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I have replaced the ODO 2032 battery 5 times so far since 9/2/15 in my '16 300RR.  

Sierra BMW & Beta just mailed me "upgraded diode and condenser units" for the 300RR as part of a factory recall.  Even though I did remove the factory oil injection system earlier, I will install these upgraded items anyway to see if ODO battery life can be extended.  

I just now replaced the battery for the 5th time.  The new battery measured 3.26 V while the old battery measured 2.79 V.  Its difficult to believe why this apparently small level of discharge would impact battery function so much! 

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On 15/02/2018 at 1:47 AM, shrubitup said:

If unit is replaced with a trail tech one, is the problem fixed? 

I can now say 100% yes, as I've just done it.

I tried to wire the stock one directly to the battery using the method's shown in mbeers6's post above but it didn't fix it either. 

I bought a new Trailtech Endurance II computer (£80ish). Wired it directly to the battery, updated the odo and miles to what was on my stock computer and is now working perfectly. 

I didn't wire in led lights for low oil and main beam and such but others have and say its not difficult. 

The only extras you need are the battery connectors and an inline fuse holder + fuse

 

starcraft-bus-wiring-diagram-in-addition-to-trail-tech-vapor-of-champion-bus-wiring-diagram.jpg

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