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2001 DRZ400E (Flatside) Jetting / Off Idle Bog

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Hello all,

I need some advice on Jetting and whether my bog issue is due to that or not:

Bike Mods: Snorkel Removed, Aftermarket exhaust, coast enrichener removed.

Riding Conditions: 2800 - 5500ft, 90-110 degree weather (not humid)

Previous Setup: had the bog + idle issues (couldn't ever get it to be happy around 1800 RPM) and it would sometimes die at idle in the mountains(~4000ft)

Pilot: Stock

Needle JD Blue on 4th notch (EMM?)

Main: 162

Fuel Screw: I adjusted between .5 - 3 and could never get it crisp and consistent

Current Setup: still has the bog, idle issues seem resolved so far

Pilot: Stock

Needle: JD Red on 4th

Main: 165

Fuel Screw: 1.5 - 2 seems to make the idle happy.

 

My thoughts: I feel like the main jet change was good, and that I probably need some sort of adjustment on the needle but not sure where to go exactly, but I don't think the bog is related to that. The bog happens only if I grab a lot of throttle and will stall the bike if I don't ease off. So, I'm thinking it's something to do with the AP but on the other hand feel like it should work without wiring it up and filing the stop on the diaphragm.

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I'd pull the carb and make sure the squirt is working right. When I had a slant on my bike I had great response using the YZ400F diaphragm and the Boysen Quick Shot 1 accelerator pump cover. I used the Yamaha part because that's what the dealer had in stock and I found the cover on the clearance table.

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31 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

I'd pull the carb and make sure the squirt is working right. When I had a slant on my bike I had great response using the YZ400F diaphragm and the Boysen Quick Shot 1 accelerator pump cover. I used the Yamaha part because that's what the dealer had in stock and I found the cover on the clearance table.

did you also marry the spring and pump arm?

 

Is it worth spreading the AP tabs to take up the worn plastic arm? maybe it's just squirting late because of that?

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Just now, ohiodrz400sm said:

The O-ring mod doesn't apply to the slant. Google Taffy mod.
I never tried it

I' referring to Eddie's Mod (Same as taffy?)

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6 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

I don't remember if it is or isn't.
Have you verified that timing of the squirt(or if it even squirts) by observing it with the carb off?

 

I've seen it squirt, but didn't pay much attention to the timing unfortunately

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On 7/3/2017 at 3:47 PM, ohiodrz400sm said:

I don't remember if it is or isn't.
Have you verified that timing of the squirt(or if it even squirts) by observing it with the carb off?

 

So apparently my AP wasn't working (bolt came out and arm slipped off etc) so I replaced the plastic arm and reconnected everything with a new bolt+threadlock which almost fixed the off idle bog. It's good enough now that it still bogs but won't die even if I don't ease off the throttle at all.

 

However, I still feel like the jetting might be a bit off. I changed the needle back to the blue needle but on the 3rd clip position and it runs pretty well. I feel like it's not quite as powerful as it used to be (maybe too lean since I tried to jet so I can go up in elevation without the bike dying at idle) or maybe I'm just crazy. I used to be able to wheelie pretty easily in second gear but can't now, maybe that's because I adjusted my rear shock to soften up a lot?

 

Any advice on what my jetting should be with the specs I mentioned in the OP?

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23 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

I think your rich based on temp and elevation. I'd go back to red needle and drop down to a 158 or 155 main jet.


Sent from my XT1650 using ThumperTalk mobile app
 

Well that's what I was thinking but I ended up having a major bog at 1/2 to full throttle if I opened up quickly and so I switched back to the blue and that's gone. It's just tricky to figure it out since my AP pump wasn't working before and I simultaneously did Eddies Mod when I fixed it and rejetted.

If it makes any difference, my AP squirt shoots straight and far for 1 - 1.5 seconds and just misses the slide.

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