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CarlosAragon

Gear oil for my Beta 300RR 2017

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Sheeez oil wars ag🤣ain .

Shit does it matter? I change oil so quickly I don’t think so. It’s like every ride if it’s a long hardcore ride or every other ride if it’s an average ride. How often does everyone here change.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider
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1 hour ago, KRAYNIAL said:

You must not understand Group ratings...

Base stock is the single most important point in choosing an oil. Choosing oil with crap base stock is just dumb. Oil is cheap, engines and transmissions are expensive!!!! Why don't people get this? 

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2 hours ago, KRAYNIAL said:

You must not understand Group ratings...

Well, why don't you read the two part Motorcycle Consumer News report on motor oil and tell me where I went astray?

They tested over 50 products, illustrated the percentage difference of content of all the different additives and what they do, and all the applicable ASTM and SAE testing was also conducted. Furthermore, they explained the groupings from Group I to Group V. 😏

If you want to quote what some guy posted on 'Bob is The (dead) Oil Guy', knock yourself out. 👍

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1 hour ago, NEGbrap said:

Base stock is the single most important point in choosing an oil. Choosing oil with crap base stock is just dumb. Oil is cheap, engines and transmissions are expensive!!!! Why don't people get this? 

Is that for me? 🙄

I run Redline. :D

But you're wrong; service grade is more important than base stock. If you don't believe me, I have a little experiment we can try on your differentials. You do follow the manufacturer's suggested service intervals for you automobile differentials, don't you? :excuseme:

Edited by Beta300recat
But you're wrong; service grade is more important than base stock. If you don't believe me, I have a little experiment we can try on your differentials. You do follow the manufacturer's suggested service intervals for you automobile differentials, don't y

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On 7/3/2017 at 4:15 PM, shrubitup said:

any 10W40 is fine

 

Newbie here...I noticed a lot of 10w-40 is for 4t motor oil. So are those still acceptable to use? I would imagine so but the 4t label throw me off 

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39 minutes ago, Emily_FC said:

Newbie here...I noticed a lot of 10w-40 is for 4t motor oil. So are those still acceptable to use? I would imagine so but the 4t label throw me off 

Yes. Many 10W40 or 15W40 grades are used in four stroke motorcycles to lubricate both the motor and transmission/clutch. You would just cut out the motor lubrication part of it when using this in a two stroke motorcycle. Your two stroke motor gets oil from the fuel (if mixed in aka pre mix) or via oil injection on a 16+ Beta two stroke (and the 15+ XT).

Edited by shrubitup
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31 minutes ago, Emily_FC said:

Newbie here...I noticed a lot of 10w-40 is for 4t motor oil. So are those still acceptable to use? I would imagine so but the 4t label throw me off 

Welcome to TT, lots of good information here on your XT and all other subjects under the sun. 

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In my Honda the standard Rotella made my normally butter smooth tranny very notchy shifting. I don't like notchy shifting trannys. 

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For years we have run the Rotella T6 5W-40W in Betas and GGs.  Change every two rides, or before and after every race.  One of the biggest pluses to me was the low clutch drag for in gear hare scramble starts.  GG motors I have pulled down looked excellent inside.  No need to tear the 400 hr Beta down yet. Running the new 15-40W T6 in my YZ250FX.  15-50W Mobil 1 also works well.  My neighbor buys into the bullshit of high $$ MC oil because he can leave it in the bike longer.  With no filter on  2stoke, a small one and very limited capacity on a much hotter running 4stroke, why would you keep oil (and the debris it has accumulated) in a motor for 20-30 hrs?   

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11 minutes ago, GP said:

For years we have run the Rotella T6 5W-40W in Betas and GGs.  Change every two rides, or before and after every race.  One of the biggest pluses to me was the low clutch drag for in gear hare scramble starts.  GG motors I have pulled down looked excellent inside.  No need to tear the 400 hr Beta down yet. Running the new 15-40W T6 in my YZ250FX.  15-50W Mobil 1 also works well.  My neighbor buys into the bullshit of high $$ MC oil because he can leave it in the bike longer.  With no filter on  2stoke, a small one and very limited capacity on a much hotter running 4stroke, why would you keep oil (and the debris it has accumulated) in a motor for 20-30 hrs?   

+1 T6

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37 minutes ago, GP said:

For years we have run the Rotella T6 5W-40W in Betas and GGs.  Change every two rides, or before and after every race.  One of the biggest pluses to me was the low clutch drag for in gear hare scramble starts.  GG motors I have pulled down looked excellent inside.  No need to tear the 400 hr Beta down yet. Running the new 15-40W T6 in my YZ250FX.  15-50W Mobil 1 also works well.  My neighbor buys into the bullshit of high $$ MC oil because he can leave it in the bike longer.  With no filter on  2stoke, a small one and very limited capacity on a much hotter running 4stroke, why would you keep oil (and the debris it has accumulated) in a motor for 20-30 hrs?   

This is also what my friend Sam told me, head to Walmart and buy the Rotella. Good to hear others back that as well. Just wanted to get input on someone with a Beta as well. Thanks!

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Any of these options will work fine. Personally i think its more about how much you change it rather what you use. I have never went more than 15 hours between changes. I prefer 10 but sometimes i do not make that.

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The rotella improves clutch drag on the beta?  Did you notice clutch drag and then switch to rotella and it improved?  Or are you just thinking it helps based on previous experience.  

I’ve been trying to improve my drag with changing oil brands, but nothing has helped so far.

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10 minutes ago, G-Berm said:

The rotella improves clutch drag on the beta?  Did you notice clutch drag and then switch to rotella and it improved?  Or are you just thinking it helps based on previous experience.  

I’ve been trying to improve my drag with changing oil brands, but nothing has helped so far.

My Mobil rotella equivalent does make finding neutral very easy on my Beta 300. I only experience clutch drag when the motor is cold.

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6 minutes ago, G-Berm said:

The rotella improves clutch drag on the beta?  Did you notice clutch drag and then switch to rotella and it improved?  Or are you just thinking it helps based on previous experience.  

I’ve been trying to improve my drag with changing oil brands, but nothing has helped so far.

The 5-40W helps from a perspective of in gear kick starts, which I preferred to estart.  This is compared to the 15-40W, when the clutch/oil is not really up to temp as you can do only so much in the pits/on the line.  Normally, when hot, the clutch did not drag regardless of oil.  Only times since owning the bike I've had consistent drag it was due to the master/slave needing a rebuild/bleed, causing a slight loss of linear travel of the slave.

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So I’ve seen that some go with T4, some go with t6...any explanation on why you’d go with one over the other? Also, I’m in the NW part of Washington, riding single track mostly and roads to connect trails. Recommended wt is 10w-40 but was told to go with the Rotella 15-40, does that seem reasonable for my climate? I’m having such a tough time deciding what to go with, and it gets worse the more I research 😂. The guy I bought it from used the recommended motul, saying you change the oil less often by using that vs the cheaper Rotella. 

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2 minutes ago, Emily_FC said:

So I’ve seen that some go with T4, some go with t6...any explanation on why you’d go with one over the other? Also, I’m in the NW part of Washington, riding single track mostly and roads to connect trails. Recommended wt is 10w-40 but was told to go with the Rotella 15-40, does that seem reasonable for my climate? I’m having such a tough time deciding what to go with, and it gets worse the more I research 😂. The guy I bought it from used the recommended motul, saying you change the oil less often by using that vs the cheaper Rotella. 

Been doing this 14 years. I stick with name brand, lowest price. Never an oil related failure other than Amsoil in a KX100 (don't use Amsoil!! :banana:). I like the 15W40 because it's great quality at low price and I don't need to go to specialty retailers or buy enough of it online to get free shipping etc. Also in NW Washington and this grade works great.

I don't know if you're on a two or four stroke bike but on the two stroke, Beta lists 30 hour change intervals. I notice a decrease in performance at 20 hours using 15W40. I guess I could buy motorcycle specific oil and run it ten hours longer but it still won't cost less because the "non motorcycle" oil is only $1 a quart when on sale and using rebate from Mobil.

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