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I have just acquired a 230 with a bad rear wheel.  Big spoke damage and home in hub have been elongated....i have a new hub and spoke set comming i think the rim is good...

Does yamaha give a dimension from some point on the rim to a point on the hub.....it would be nice to know....?

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On 6/27/2017 at 7:23 PM, daled said:

I have just acquired a 230 with a bad rear wheel.  Big spoke damage and home in hub have been elongated....i have a new hub and spoke set comming i think the rim is good...

Does yamaha give a dimension from some point on the rim to a point on the hub.....it would be nice to know....?

 I just remembered to check the manual today. No they don't give a spec for mounting the rim on the hub, which is weird since they don't sell complete wheels. I guess they expect you to measure the old one, you can do it with a framing square. Of course it's harder to do on a blown up wheel.

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So i found that every hub hole had been elongated by some massive pull by the spokes, most all the spokes are twisted up like the one in the photo. amazingly the rim is still round and flat.

My new hub, spokes are in from Partzilla and the re-lace effort is under way. Im gust going to have to measure from the center of the swing arm to the center of the counter sprocket to define where the rim should end up on the new hub..

I think this damage is the result of a derailed chain, most server spoke damage is on the drive side and close to the center.

THATS WHEN I NOTICE THAT THE CHAIN GUIDE ON THE TTR IS NOTHING BUT A SHARK FIN....and will not keep a chain guided onto the sprocket at all, Thanks Yamaha for this worthless bit...

So who makes a real guide for this machine......????  this will be my first and very important mod to my TTR...

20170630_074424[1].jpg

20170630_074433[1].jpg

Edited by daled
cause i can't spell

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 I'll try to get you some measurements today. There are some aftermarket chain guides on the market but the problem is the mounts on the swingarm are in a single plane and can be easily bent. If you bend a full cage chain guide you will have much bigger problems than with the stock plastic deflector. A better solution, unless you can fabricate a better swingarm mount, is a tensioner mounted to the frame up near the footpeg. There is a small one there allready, I built a bigger version of the stock one years ago and it works ok but I'd like to replace it with a spring loaded tensioner.

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 I didn't do as well as I thought I would with measuring. I don't have a stock wheel handy right now. measuring with a non stock rim the center line of the rim is 1/2" to 5/8" off center towards the brake side. There's lots of room so the placement isn't super critical. If I had a stock wheel here I'd put a long straight edge across the brake drum and measure from the straight edge to the rim then you'd have a dimension to use.

 Hope that helps a little.

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So I got the new hub all laced up to the rim and then I started to true it up when I discovered this little problem...

Rim is cracked.....crap....

 

20170703_094935.jpg

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So my TTR230 has a cracked rim...

I am wondering if welding is a viable option or if annealing is a problem..

20170703_094935.jpg

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Somebody please explain what I missed.  Why do you need a measurement to put a hub and rim together?  Just center the hub, right?

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2 hours ago, Still Bill said:

Somebody please explain what I missed.  Why do you need a measurement to put a hub and rim together?  Just center the hub, right?

I was try to figure that one out too.  I've done plenty of rims. I use a swingarm in a vice as a mount and go to town.  For truing, just tape a pencil or something to it.  Elongated holes are fine too.  Just keep you spokes tight. 

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7 hours ago, Still Bill said:

Somebody please explain what I missed.  Why do you need a measurement to put a hub and rim together?  Just center the hub, right?

 No, the rim is offset on the hub.

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8 hours ago, daled said:

So my TTR230 has a cracked rim...

I am wondering if welding is a viable option or if annealing is a problem..

20170703_094935.jpg

 I suspect that it's technically possible, the rim was already welded once, but unless you know someone who has the equipment and knowledge to do it right it's a bad idea. You also have the opportunity to upgrade to a 2.15 width rim when you buy a new one.

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56 minutes ago, motovita said:

 I suspect that it's technically possible, the rim was already welded once, but unless you know someone who has the equipment and knowledge to do it right it's a bad idea. You also have the opportunity to upgrade to a 2.15 width rim when you buy a new one.

Too late...got a stocker comming....

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New rim new hub all laced up and true within .006" axial and .018 radial...

I think most of that is the rim material itself....

Now on to fabricate a better chain guide..

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23 hours ago, daled said:

New rim new hub all laced up and true within .006" axial and .018 radial...

I think most of that is the rim material itself....

Now on to fabricate a better chain guide..

 Good job, you might post your offset dimensions since Yamaha doesn't and there seem to be others here rebuilding rear wheels.

 Looking forward to seeing your chain guide.

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