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Convert kill switch to horn button

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Hi everyone, I'm adding a headlight and tail/brake light, horn and mirror to my '03 CRF230f to make it street legal (in AZ where my son lives).

I bought a Baja Designs (BD) simple conversion kit. The control switch has 1) a kill switch and 2) an off/low/high beam switch. I also bought a simple 12v aftermarket horn (two connectors, just connect a positive and negative apparently).

In reading the reviews on the BD kit description, a couple of guys said that, since they already had a kill switch on their bikes, they used the BD kill switch as a horn button. I asked the BD tech and he told me he couldn't help with stuff like that.  I'm not an electrician but can follow clear directions. Can any of you explain how to use this switch for the horn in a way that a novice can understand? Thanks very much!

Edited by Martillo Dave

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30 minutes ago, Martillo Dave said:

Hi everyone, I'm adding a headlight and tail/brake light, horn and mirror to my '03 CRF230f to make it street legal (in AZ where my son lives).

I bought a Baja Designs (BD) simple conversion kit. The control switch has 1) a kill switch and 2) an off/low/high beam switch. I also bought a simple 12v aftermarket horn (two connectors, just connect a positive and negative apparently).

In reading the reviews on the BD kit description, a couple of guys said that, since they already had a kill switch on their bikes, they used the BD kill switch as a horn button. I asked the BD tech and he told me he couldn't help with stuff like that.  I'm not an electrician but can follow clear directions. Can any of you explain how to use this switch for the horn in a way that a novice can understand? Thanks very much!

I'm not an electrician either, but assuming the kill switch has 2 wires or terminals you should be able to run from your power to one wire on the switch and from your horn with the other. Then the ground wire from the horn to ground.

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5 minutes ago, Flagstaff said:

I'm not an electrician either, but assuming the kill switch has 2 wires or terminals you should be able to run from your power to one wire on the switch and from your horn with the other. Then the ground wire from the horn to ground.

Yes, there are two wires that come from the kill switch (KS). So you're saying I run a hot wire (directly from the battery, with a fuse in-line?) to one of the KS wires, run the other KS wire to one connector on the horn, and run another wire from the other horn connector to the frame?   

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1 hour ago, Martillo Dave said:

Yes, there are two wires that come from the kill switch (KS). So you're saying I run a hot wire (directly from the battery, with a fuse in-line?) to one of the KS wires, run the other KS wire to one connector on the horn, and run another wire from the other horn connector to the frame?   

Yes. :thumbsup: 

 

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1 minute ago, Flagstaff said:

Yes. :thumbsup: 

 

That sounds easy enough. I guess I wasn't sure if a kill switch opened the circuit or closed it. Some info I found said they tend to short out the circuit. 

Thanks very much for your help. I'll try it!

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2 minutes ago, Martillo Dave said:

That sounds easy enough. I guess I wasn't sure if a kill switch opened the circuit or closed it. Some info I found said they tend to short out the circuit. 

Thanks very much for your help. I'll try it!

Remember, I'm not an electrician, nor have I paid much attention to how kill switches work. But I think they take hot to ground. You're just taking hot to the horn instead. Good luck.

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10 hours ago, Flagstaff said:

Remember, I'm not an electrician, nor have I paid much attention to how kill switches work. But I think they take hot to ground. You're just taking hot to the horn instead. Good luck.

The most common type of kill switch grounds the circuit. 

If your bike has a one wire kill switch the switch grounds that wire to the handlebars.

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Most of the handle bar switches list the bottom button as horn or kill.  And most of the handle bar switches with turn signals are 9 wire multi function devices and support AC for the headlight, DC for the turn signals, and a lower button with two wires for horn or kill.  If it has two wires to the button that do not connect to anything else in the handle bar switch then you are good to go.  I use mine as a horn switch with 12VDC going to the horn,  and then a wire to the switch, the other switch wire goes to ground. That is the way Honda wires horns. The switch should come with a wiring diagram that list the function and colors of the wires. 

I haven't been able to find online wiring diagrams for Tusk switch gear so I have never used them.

Here is a K&S switch listing with a wiring diagram. http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-TECHNOLOGIES-UNIVERSAL-HEAD-LIGHT-HORN-SWITCH-STREET-CAFE-RACER-DUAL-SPORT-/161641180282?hash=item25a290ac7a:g:lpMAAOxyyF5RJNZy&vxp=mtr

K&S also has a version with Honda connectors and wire colors that match Honda.

Or you can buy Honda stule connectors here: http://www.cycleterminal.com/110-connectors.html

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17 minutes ago, Chuck. said:

Most of the handle bar switches list the bottom button as horn or kill.  And most of the handle bar switches with turn signals are 9 wire multi function devices and support AC for the headlight, DC for the turn signals, and a lower button with two wires for horn or kill.  If it has two wires to the button that do not connect to anything else in the handle bar switch then you are good to go.  I use mine as a horn switch with 12VDC going to the horn,  and then a wire to the switch, the other switch wire goes to ground. That is the way Honda wires horns. The switch should come with a wiring diagram that list the function and colors of the wires. 

I haven't been able to find online wiring diagrams for Tusk switch gear so I have never used them.

Here is a K&S switch listing with a wiring diagram. http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-S-TECHNOLOGIES-UNIVERSAL-HEAD-LIGHT-HORN-SWITCH-STREET-CAFE-RACER-DUAL-SPORT-/161641180282?hash=item25a290ac7a:g:lpMAAOxyyF5RJNZy&vxp=mtr

K&S also has a version with Honda connectors and wire colors that match Honda.

Or you can buy Honda stule connectors here: http://www.cycleterminal.com/110-connectors.html

Interesting... so you connect the hot wire directly to the horn and the switch simply completes the circuit as it connects to ground? Is that preferable to the hot going to the switch and the ground connecting to the horn?

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Really two ways and it really depends on the switch. On mu X I ran power to the horn, then to the switch because the "Horn/Kill" switch was two wire and independent from the other switch functions.  Some Hondas run DC+ to the switch, or use DC from other functions in a multi switch, then run a wire to the horn, with the other horn terminal to ground. 

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1 hour ago, Chuck. said:

Really two ways and it really depends on the switch. On mu X I ran power to the horn, then to the switch because the "Horn/Kill" switch was two wire and independent from the other switch functions.  Some Hondas run DC+ to the switch, or use DC from other functions in a multi switch, then run a wire to the horn, with the other horn terminal to ground. 

This is a Baja Designs switch, has a black wire and white wire. The horn didn't come with any wiring directions and the BD directions are only to use it as a kill switch.

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It may be slightly safer to wire +12 to the horn first rather than to the switch first. If you get a short in the switch, the horn just blows rather than harness melting.  The chances of a horn shorting +12V to ground are less in my opinion. 

Do you know how many amps your new horn is?  That may be why BD does not recommend anything but kill, they dont want someone putting a 20A automotive horn current through a 500mA rated momentary switch.  It only has to conduct a few milliamp to ground to stop your ignition system and kill the engine.  So it matters what rating the BD switch is and what rating your horn is. If BD won't tell you, you just have to gamble.

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51 minutes ago, wielywilly-g said:

It may be slightly safer to wire +12 to the horn first rather than to the switch first. If you get a short in the switch, the horn just blows rather than harness melting.  The chances of a horn shorting +12V to ground are less in my opinion. 

Do you know how many amps your new horn is?  That may be why BD does not recommend anything but kill, they dont want someone putting a 20A automotive horn current through a 500mA rated momentary switch.  It only has to conduct a few milliamp to ground to stop your ignition system and kill the engine.  So it matters what rating the BD switch is and what rating your horn is. If BD won't tell you, you just have to gamble.

It's only a 1.5 amp horn :thumbsup:

I think I'll wire it to the horn first. Thanks!

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