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Ok, I am compiling info to change out my chain, front and rear sprockets and do the Loctite 263 red countershaft fix.

Please let me know if I need any more or you see I have an issue on something.

Looking to get JT sprockets (maybe Renthal, Sunstar?). Aluminum or steel? I am thinking of a 15/39 -- I do a lot of street/commuting, I will dual sport/adventure, but this is primarily a streeter. I am a big guy @ 270 pounds, so I am not too sure how my torque loss will be an issue, even if it would be at all? I am currently @ 14/44. What is the best way to lube my chain? I have seen chain lube mentioned here for Dupont from Wal*Mart https://www.walmart.com/ip/DuPont-Teflon-Chain-Saver-11-oz/16672659?u1=j4v7w612ym0004is0009i&oid=500376.1&wmlspartner=je6NUbpObpQ&sourceid=35614714973335946505&affillinktype=10&veh=aff

What about chain brands, some are cheap, some more expensive (DID, Regina, other?). What about the numbers after the chain? I assume I want the 520 chain? Do I need a chain tool? or is the master link going to take care of that? I think stock is 112 links (including the master?)

Do I need to pick up this kit? https://www.thumpertalk.com/shop/All-Balls-Counter-Shaft-Seal-Kit-p4797952.html or should I be fine? I don't believe my seal is leaking but I like to have all my parts together before I start a project, and am not against having spare parts or replacing parts just so I know something is done right. How do I check if the seal is leaking? (is this obvios? like oil dripping past or consuming oil from my crankcase?)

Trying to learn and understand, what is the part about somehting mushrooming and appearing my CS nut is loose, when it (is) but because of mushroomed part? I will not, I recently had the cover off, and noticed my front sprocket nut was loose, so I torqued it to 80 ft/lbs.... not sure if it was loose, because it was jsut loose, or because I had the issue with it?

Thanks for all the help! This is the only motorcycle forum I belong to.

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got the msr kit, jt sprockets 15 and 39 in my amazon cart, now just need the correct length chain.... how many links? all the amazon results saying fits your vehicle say 110 --- the FSM says 112 for stock gearing on the S....

Edited by 74jimbo

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I like DID chains. Get a 520 o/x ring chain, narrow type if you want. They usually come 120 link, so you need to cut it to fit, or ask a shop to help you out. 112 links is not required. Depending on your sprocket size, and rear axle adjustment, you may need more or less links. They usually come with master links, sometimes clips, sometimes rivets. If you want to use a rivet master link, you need a chain press tool. Clips you can install with hand tools. That chain lube you linked is very good. Your chain can be used while somewhat dirty, so cleaning is less important than lubing. I lube my chain usually after every full tank. Lube while the chain's warm. JT steel sprockets are good quality, cheap and long lasting.

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What tool should I get? Not trying to cheap out, but don't need a $200 chain tool, nor want a $5 Harbor Freight tool eithdr

 

 

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18 minutes ago, 74jimbo said:

What tool should I get? Not trying to cheap out, but don't need a $200 chain tool, nor want a $5 Harbor Freight tool eithdr

Something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-PP309-Motorcycle-Riveting/dp/B004MS9VTW

I use clip master links so I only need a standard screwdriver and hammer. Never personally used any rivet tool.

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Is pit posse the good brand? Or motion pro? I just don't want to get the knockoff of something else
$40 is ok for a tool

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I have the Motion Pro PBR(actually my 2nd one,loaned the other one out and never saw it again)and it's pretty decent,bought it to do chains on my Busa(530/riveted).Noticed the chain on my CRF 450R has the clip style master so probably won't need it other than to push out pins if new chain needs shortening,etc.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0470

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what chain should I get? will any x ring 520 work? I will get it big and adjust the length.

 

about to pull the trigger here, also wanted to ask, is 15/39 ok?

 

I was reading something about never putting both odd or both even numbers....

 

today is prime day on amazon and I need to order asap!

Edited by 74jimbo

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I can't help on on which chain to get bro as I'm new to dirt bikes,but I asked Brock Davidson("Brocks",a sportbike speed guru)and he said something about a "hunting tooth",that as far as the wear factor go with odd/odd as a first choice,odd/even as a second,and even/even as a third.Don't know how much of a factor it would be on dirt bikes or if it would even matter that much(on my Hayabusa I run Vortex aluminum sprockets and change ratios often[like every 5,000 miles]so haven't had any premature wear issues).I would say just go with whatever tooth combo you want as I doubt you'd put enough miles on it(like a street bike)to be concerned over.

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I'll 2nd the PBR tool. Originally bought it for my R1 but it turned out to be one of those tools that while you don't use it often, it is a godsend when you do need it. You will need the "press" function to install the side plate on the DID X ring, or most other high quality chains.

 

If you use it to "Break" and chain, it's best to grind down the rivet head 1st. Also, be sure to have everything tightened correctly when using it. While the tool is very strong, if you carelessly tighten the press rod without 1st tightening the guide it will likely break

 

 

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Ok, so I ordered some stuff, a 150 link jt sprockets steel x ring x1r2, a clip link master for it, jt steel 15t and 41t sprockets, and the msr kit for the countershaft loctite fix

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Revisiting this, want to get my old did chain off, it has a master link, I pulled the clip, but it feels like the link is in there. Should I just cutoff wheel it off? I have a new JT chain with a master link, it is a JT 520 x ring, but it is 150 links long! So I will need to shave it down anyways. And might as well use a proper chain tool

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1 hour ago, 74jimbo said:

Revisiting this, want to get my old did chain off, it has a master link, I pulled the clip, but it feels like the link is in there. Should I just cutoff wheel it off? I have a new JT chain with a master link, it is a JT 520 x ring, but it is 150 links long! So I will need to shave it down anyways. And might as well use a proper chain tool

Use a chain breaker to get your current chain off. Then cut your new chain to fit, and install with the clip master link.

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Will any tool work? Or go with quality? I want something capable of properly removing and installing a new link without a master, if I need to later down the line.

I am fine spending $ on good tools

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Removing a chain with a rivet master? Get a chain breaker, or make do with an angle grinder. A shop will probably cut it free.

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so which tool do I need to buy? I want to be able to break an old chain, and rivit new ones together if the situation calls for it....

 

I am trying to buy the proper tool, not just chop it off with an angle grinder or cut-off wheel.....

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