Prepping wheels for new graphics??

[Ondastreet]

My wheels and lip stickers are lil banged up from previous owner. Gonna try n touch them up a bit and install new graphics. My question is should I use cleaner wax on them to try to get the "back to black" they are a lil grayed out. Then what should I wipe them down with to prep them for the new graphics? Wouldn't be too concerned if they didn't go between the spokes but they do so I wanna get the wheels nice as possible and prepped for long term adhesion. What your thoughts? Thx, Ken

[Beta300REcat]

Clean with a name brand dish soap, like Dawn, first. Next, clean the wheels with denatured alcohol. Apply your graphics and wait several weeks before applying anything else to the wheels.

[Ondastreet]

What should I do about the grayish tint on them

[Beta300REcat]

Nothing until your new graphics have had time to cure. I'd be tempted to try carnuba wax first.

[Ondastreet]

Ok so once graphics are cured I can wax over them? If a cleaner wax is needed will it damage the graphics. Obviously I'd try to avoid hitting them.

[Beta300REcat]

May just want to get a fine polish with no wax ans see if the gray can be buffed out of the surface before putting the new graphics..

Edited July 8, 2017 by Bermudacat

[Ondastreet]

Sounds good, thx for the input. I'll see how it goes n post results. Thx again, Ken

[Beta300REcat]

7 minutes ago, Ondastreet said:

 Thx again, Ken

.............you're welcome!

[sbmon]

If the wheels have spokes installed good luck with those graphics pictured. Even using the wet windex install method those are going to be a challenge.

 

[Beta300REcat]

Good point; always use Windex when applying your graphics. heat gun is pretty handy too.

[Ondastreet]

I'm up for a challenge lol thx for the heads up

[Signman606]

1 hour ago, Ondastreet said:

I'm up for a challenge lol thx for the heads up

Hey Ondastreet.....I'd do exactly like Bermudacat recommended, EXCEPT, I'd get some polishing compound FIRST and either get a small buffer or drill attachment and polish them until the they are high gloss BLACK. Polishing compound should get rid of any oxidation or graying, and bring the black back to a brilliant shine. THEN I would wash with soapy water.....Simple Green is a awesome cleaner and degreaser, then the alcohol and you should be good to go. A heat gun is going to be a must, and some sort of positioning fluid sure would help. We use this stuff at work that smells like vanilla.....it's a sign application fluid that evaporates better than Windex. Any local sign shop will have it and most likely sell you some. Once you have the graphics positioned where you want them, go over them with a heat gun just wafting over them to dry. The heat will activate the glue underneath and "set" them. Wait a couple of days and check if anything has lifted, and if so,  then heat it back down. If you want to wax them afterwards it's up to you........the decals should,.......... on their own last for 7-10yrs. with no wax. We lam our stuff with a U.V. protector.

Good luck! ?

Edited July 9, 2017 by Signman606

[Beta300REcat]

Coupon sale this month......... $7.99

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

Best heat gun at any price.

 

Decal sheets are flat, and when we start applying decals we realize how curved everything on the earth is. ?

[Ondastreet]

4 minutes ago, Signman606 said:

Hey Ken.....I'd do exactly like Bermudacat recommended, EXCEPT, I'd get some polishing compound FIRST and either get a small buffer or drill attachment and polish them until the they are high gloss BLACK. Polishing compound should get rid of any oxidation or graying, and bring the black back to a brilliant shine. THEN I would wash with soapy water.....Simple Green is a awesome cleaner and degreaser, then the alcohol and you should be good to go. A heat gun is going to be a must, and some sort of positioning fluid sure would help. We use this stuff at work that smells like vanilla.....it's a sign application fluid that evaporates better than Windex. Any local sign shop will have it and most likely sell you some. Once you have the graphics positioned where you want them, go over them with a heat gun just wafting over them to dry. The heat will activate the glue underneath and "set" them. Wait a couple of days and check if anything has lifted, and if so,  then heat it back down. If you want to wax them afterwards it's up to you........the decals should,.......... on their own last for 7-10yrs. with no wax. We lam our stuff with a U.V. protector.

Good luck! ?

I'm gonna look into the polish and app fluid. Thx, Ken

[Ondastreet]

7 minutes ago, Bermudacat said:

Coupon sale this month......... $7.99

https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html

Best heat gun at any price.

 

Decal sheets are flat, and when we start applying decals we realize how curved everything on the earth is. ?

Funny story. That exact heat gun caut fire when I was removing the stock graphics lol. Lucky I have a backup. Short story but funny. 

[Signman606]

43 minutes ago, Ondastreet said:

Funny story. That exact heat gun caut fire when I was removing the stock graphics lol. Lucky I have a backup. Short story but funny. 

When removing was there glue residual left from the stock stuff? If so, you need to take that off with a glue remover BEFORE everything I said above.

[Ondastreet]

3 minutes ago, Signman606 said:

When removing was there glue residual left from the stock stuff? If so, you need to take that off with a glue remover BEFORE everything I said above.

Yes there was. I removed it. Thx, Ken

[jjktmrider]

I have an older bottle of this https://www.amazon.com/3M-03900-Rubbing-Compound-oz/dp/B000AR7KVA/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499583179&sr=1-3&keywords=3m+rubbing+compound 

for polishing cars every couple years to bring out the deep shine , It'll be a beige cream color best used with a power pad but can be used with a terry cloth , do in sections and wipe off film as you go before it dries too much . However if those rims are anodized I don't know if the color will come back or if polishing will worsen the graying . Try a small area that will be covered first .

I've  used Sticker On for applying some decals , can be tricky to get excess fluid out from some decals if they get sticky too fast .  https://www.amazon.com/Hardline-Products-Sticker-Application-Ounces/dp/B0022ZEMLO/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499583471&sr=1-4&keywords=sticker+on

.

Edited July 9, 2017 by jjktmrider

[74jimbo]

scope out the mothers powerball or mini powerball in a drill for getting the buffing done

[Beta300REcat]

12 hours ago, Signman606 said:

 A heat gun is going to be a must, and some sort of positioning fluid sure would help. We use this stuff at work that smells like vanilla.....it's a sign application fluid that evaporates better than Windex.

Good luck! ?

Bueno Bueno Bueno.....................

https://www.amazon.com/RAPID-Application-Decals-Stickers-Sprayer/dp/B006RMC8J6

 

More interesting stuff..........................................

Quote

I remember an old Sign Craft back in the early 90s had a reader that mentioned windshield washer solvent, same stuff you use in your vehicle. Use it right out of the jug, don't dilute it.

I have used it for almost 20 years with absolutely no problems. No failures, I do everything wet, even coroplast. Spray the application tape with the solvent to speed up the process and the tape just about falls off.

I use it on glass if the vinyl is fairly large. I know some members here will disagree but it works for me.

I was paying 99c a gallon, now it's gone up to almost $2 a gallon, still cheap. I wlll use soap and water in a pinch.

 

https://www.signs101.com/threads/homemade-application-fluid.83766/

Heck, just like him, I have gallons of that in the garage too. Seems that varying the alcohol ratio effects the work time? Hmmm........

Edited July 9, 2017 by Bermudacat