6 wire 3 position key switch

[Carman]

I need a key switch for my te300 and I have everything wired for a 3 position key switch

Off-grounds kill switch

On- powers estart

Lights- powers lights and e start

I bought a cheep Chinese key switch for a little pig bike for 8$ and well I got what I payed for. It's a little piece of junk.

Now I need to find a proper key switch that is good quality and does what I want it to do. DRZ400 and dr350se key switches are close but the DRZ only has 4 wires and the dr switch kills the bike in park position.

It's all wired for 3 separate circuits with a dummy plug right now. I've spend 2 hours this morning googling stuff without any real answers

[William1]

No switches I know of provide a separate closed circuit in the 'off' position.

Most have on with power in with perhaps two outputs and a third setting that has a separate output (three wires total). The first output is a bike hot that us used to energize the CDI, headlight, horn, signals, brake light, tail light, instruments. The second output (also energized in the third position) energizes the tail light and parking bulb in the headlight.

The four wire DRZ switch the extra wire that just lights the instruments and for some reason is not simply included with the power on section.

[WALKINGWOUNDED]

If theft wasn't an issue, and you had the place to mount them, you could do individual toggle switches from a auto parts store.

[Chuck.]

Most ignition switches I've encountered are only two position; ON/OFF. Honda Dual Sport bikes like XLs are 4 wire 2 circuit switches, and when "OFF" ground the ignition and open the run/start circuit, vice versa when "ON".  I, RAMZ, and others have used early CRF230F ignition switches when plating our bikes (new from Honda w/ 2 keys, about $30). 
I connected the ignition section of the switch into my kill switch wires and the run circuit to the starting circuit. My handle bar switch has an off position for the headlight and the headlight is AC so is only on when the engine is running.  DC power for tail/brake/fan, etc is controlled by the ECU via a relay, and is also only on when the engine is running. 

[Carman]

Most ignition switches I've encountered are only two position; ON/OFF. Honda Dual Sport bikes like XLs are 4 wire 2 circuit switches, and when "OFF" ground the ignition and open the run/start circuit, vice versa when "ON".  I, RAMZ, and others have used early CRF230F ignition switches when plating our bikes (new from Honda w/ 2 keys, about $30). 
I connected the ignition section of the switch into my kill switch wires and the run circuit to the starting circuit. My handle bar switch has an off position for the headlight and the headlight is AC so is only on when the engine is running.  DC power for tail/brake/fan, etc is controlled by the ECU via a relay, and is also only on when the engine is running. 

I actually did the 230 key switch according to ramz's instructions on my crf250x and it works great. However my 300 is plated everything is wired strait to the battery so I want a key switch that has basically a stealth mode so no lights work for normal dirt riding and another position for lights on the road. Basically a need a 230f key switch with another position and 2 more wires

[Chuck.]

I got around that by running AC to the tail/brake so I could turn it off with the off/low/hi switch.  The LEDs seem to work just fine. The  state it is plated in doesn't require turn signals (which do require DC) so it works.
You could use a small relay for the DC and operate it from the head light AC via a small bridge rectifier, might even work half wave with a single diode.

Edited July 10, 2017 by Chuck.

[Carman]

All the lights work as they should right now but I want a way that none work including brake lights so I have a stealth mode if I need it. I need a key switch and I was hoping I could find one that would do both. I found a 8$ Chinese one that worked perfectly but it's a cheep plastic piece of junk that has no place on a high end husky dirtbike. It broke not long after getting it