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2012 Beta 350 RR Rear Suspension Play

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Was changing the rear tire the other day and noticed a tiny bit of play in the suspension when i lifted up on the swing arm when the tire was off.  Kind of like when shock bushing go bad. By tiny I mean 1/32", maybe, maybe a 16th.  All the bolts are tight and if i grab the rear shock its less noticeable.  If i wedge a screwdriver between the lower shock mounting and the shock linkage it attaches to (wishbone/dog bone???) it goes away.   I inspected the upper and lower shock mounts, the rest of the suspension linkage and they all APPEAR to be tight and solid.  The PO stated he change all the bearings prior to selling it, but who knows?  I guess my question is, is this normal for 12 Beta with 2700 mikes on it?  If not, where do I start to fix it????

 

Thx

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Pull it part and inspect the bearings. Not a huge job. The most common spot to fail first is the upper mount of the shock. 

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Agreed - pull and inspect, and don't be afraid to give it a really good look over for corrosion or broken bearings, then pack liberally with waterproof grease. 

I bought a crf250x a few months ago that had been literally ridden hard and put away wet at a cabin each year. Two of the three bearing sets were frozen and took a motion pro tool on a heavy vise to get them out. We now check and regrease them every few rides. 

 

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On 7/12/2017 at 0:51 AM, MartyMOOSE said:

Pull it part and inspect the bearings. Not a huge job. The most common spot to fail first is the upper mount of the shock. 

This ... upper shock bearing in typically the first to go, despite the fact that it lives in the cleanest environment.

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Its a teflon lined spherical, like a KTM PDS bearing.  Once the teflon in the race breaks down, clearance is added and you notice it.  This happens because the bearing barely rotates and the same small area takes the constant load.  The others will last a very long time with the right grease, tight seals (orings), and no pressure washer.   300 hrs on my originals!

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I have the same play in my 14 300. I tore it all apart and replaced a corroded knuckle bearing and regreased all the other linkage bearings and replaced the seals. Still has that bit of play. It never even crossed my mind to check the top shock mount

Edited by randysoo
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Thank for all the info.

I pulled it all apart and everything seemed to be order.  Cleaned it up put it back together and no play???

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Is there a good way to replace the top joint without a press? I was thinking maybe a 3/4" socket and a vise?

Edited by randysoo

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3 hours ago, sertguy said:

Thank for all the info.

I pulled it all apart and everything seemed to be order.  Cleaned it up put it back together and no play???

Heyya cert,

 

I had the *EXACT* same experience with my 2015 300RR.  I was swapping the rear tire for the new england classic turkey run, and noticed the exact same play as you did.

In a big panic, I pulled the dogbone, and inspected all the bushings and bearings, and everything looks perfect.  I put everything back together and strangely enough, the play disappeared! I rode a couple 100 miles in the turkey run, checking it between the ride days and found the play had indeed completely disappeared.  When I got back I ordered a complete set of lower bearings, top shock bearing & swingarm bearings.  I found the lower shock bearing had completely decomposed and was siezed solid & broken down, in fact I had a hard time pressing it out as it had broken down so bad.  My upper heim was fine as were the swingarm bearings. heres a pic of my lower shock bearing.  I can only guess that when I pulled the dogbone to inspect the lower shock bearing the first time, I must have rotated it around to the point where the mangled bearing was simply taking up all the slack between the inner bushing & bearing race and that caused the elimination of play?

 

 

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43 minutes ago, randysoo said:

Is there a good way to replace the top joint without a press? I was thinking maybe a 3/4" socket and a vise?

you can easily press it out with a 17mm socket and a large 1.25" socket on the other side and push it with a vice. Make sure you pull the small snap clip out before trying to press the heim out. It presses out towards the shock reservoir, the snap ring can be easily removed with a small pick.  Put the new bearing in the freezer for an hour before pressing back in. I also warm up the bearing opening slightly with a propane torch before pressing it in - if you do this, the bearing will slide in with very little effort at all.

-t

 

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2 hours ago, ballisticexchris said:

Man that bike is beat on with little or no maintenance. Dry chain rust and grime everywhere. 

 

Heyya Ballistics,

 

That bike has been ridden hard, but it has not been beat on.. Up here we ride our bikes hard in hard conditions. I have over 4500 miles (250+ hours) of gnarly New England riding on it. That pic was taken after the afore mentioned turkey run and was getting a full bearing/seal/gear/plastics overhaul.  Anytime you want to bring your beautiful California 300 out here and put a few hundred miles of good old NE rocks/roots/mud/water on her frame  the welcome mat is always out to ya.

 

cheers

 

-t

 

 

 

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On 7/16/2017 at 9:17 PM, lodcomm said:

Heyya Ballistics,

 

That bike has been ridden hard, but it has not been beat on.. Up here we ride our bikes hard in hard conditions. I have over 4500 miles (250+ hours) of gnarly New England riding on it. That pic was taken after the afore mentioned turkey run and was getting a full bearing/seal/gear/plastics overhaul.  Anytime you want to bring your beautiful California 300 out here and put a few hundred miles of good old NE rocks/roots/mud/water on her frame  the welcome mat is always out to ya.

 

cheers

 

-t

 

 

 

Well said.  Some have no clue how gnarly the northeast can be.  I did the Satan's Kingdom CT race last month in the steam bath heat. 

Try the orings instead of seals, much better sealing for wet conditions/washing.  Also, sometimes you have to press the upper bearing the other way away from the circlip slightly before you can remove it. 

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2 hours ago, GP said:

Well said.  Some have no clue how gnarly the northeast can be.  I did the Satan's Kingdom CT race last month in the steam bath heat. 

Try the orings instead of seals, much better sealing for wet conditions/washing.  Also, sometimes you have to press the upper bearing the other way away from the circlip slightly before you can remove it. 

Haha - that Satans Kingdom is brutal even in cool weather. I am getting old, I almost couldnt finish the little rhody enduro it was so hot/humid. We spend most weekends riding Pachaug state forest and surrounding terrain.

I like the O-Ring Idea: what seals do you swap out with  the o-rings?

 

-t

 

 

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